Wednesday, March 14, 2012

So What Do College Students Do on Alternative Spring Break?

 




I found that out when I accompanied five students from Western Michigan University during their spring break last week.

This trip was so different from spring break depicted in the 1960 film, “Where the Boys Are”, where bands of youth took over Fort Lauderdale to indulge themselves in sun, fun, sex and alcohol.

To counter this image, college students in the early 1980s initiated the “Alternative Spring Break” where they formed a temporary community to learn about and reflect on social issues through practical experience. College service learning programs and campus ministries eventually picked up on this idea and then popularized them in the mid-2000s when students wanted to help people along the Gulf Coast in the aftermath of Hurricanes Katrina and Rita.

St. Thomas More Catholic Student Parish sponsored our trip to New Orleans as part of its campus ministry program. We worked through Beacon of Hope, a nonprofit organization that focuses on rebuilding the Gentilly neighborhood. We painted the exteriors of three houses and planted flowerbeds at one. Beacon of Hope provided us with tools while the homeowners provided paint and plants.

We met students from other religious-oriented groups, namely Hillel (Foundation for Jewish Campus Life) and the Church of the Brethren.

Then, there were other students not affiliated with any group. As one purple-haired, body-pierced organizer said regarding their motivation: “It’s just something you should do.”

Nearly seven years after Hurricane Katrina, most Americans have forgotten about its destruction and few understand the city's lingering recovery effort after 80 percent of it flooded due to 53 breaks in levees designed and managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. During the storm a 200-foot barge improperly moored broke loose and crashed into floodwalls and added to the damage—without impunity.

New Orleans has done a lot of reconstruction and in many places visitors wouldn't see any signs of Katrina damage.  However, about 100,000 Orleaneans out of nearly a half million have not returned home, most of them people of color. City officials bolted the doors of their houses so they couldn’t return or retrieve any of their belongings. Other people couldn’t get a fair price for their property and abandoned it. Rents in low-income areas doubled and those who lived in public housing were shut out when renovations reduced the number of available units. Grocery stores (23 of them), banks and shopping malls closed and didn’t re-open.  Public transportation networks imploded.  Charity Hospital, which served the low-income population and didn't flood, was closed with equipment still inside. Historic homes were torn down to make way for modern housing. Although unemployment was only 8 percent (2010) due to all the rebuilding, the homeless population doubled after the storm. 
Our second debriefing with Quo Vadis, director of CELSJR

Students learned these things during a four-hour orientation program at the Center for Ethical Living and Social Justice Renewal (CELSJR). However, they were advised not to pity the people but to be in solidarity with them, as summed up in a quote from the Aboriginal Activists Group of Queensland (1970s):

“If you have come to help me, you are wasting your time. But if you have come because your liberation is bound up with mine, then let us work together.”



At CELSJR the students also learned something about “simple living.” For six nights we lived with 47 other people in three dormitory rooms with bunk beds and only five showers and three bathrooms. You wouldn’t think it could work, especially since most of the students were women, but it did. Students were very patient, flexible and cunning to get their needs met. Groups also split up the cleaning tasks over the week.

In the morning we made our own breakfast of eggs, cereal, bagels or fruit and were given sack lunches to take with us to the work site. We had dinner at 6 p.m.

However, the real story of Alternative Spring Break was about meeting people who had suffered the tragedy of losing just about everything they owned.

On the first work day, we painted Charles and Emily’s (not their real names) back porch and wooden fence. The floodwaters covered their one-story house up to the roofline. They were about to retire, their house was paid for and they had just remodeled the bathroom when Katrina hit. They returned home in 2009 after three years of rebuilding--and enduring much contractor fraud..

They acquired a lot of second hand furnishings “out of love,” said Emily, “and that’s why we’re keeping all of it.”

Charles, who has Parkinson’s Disease and has survived seven surgeries, helped us paint. He also showed us some of his family’s documents like their insurance policies, marriage license, birth certificates, which were partially damaged by water and mold. Many people didn’t have any documents proving their identity, which became a huge problem when they tried to make insurance claims.   

Emily made us a lunch of sandwiches, fruit and chips out of gratitude for our help.


On the second day, we went to Jack and Sandra’s house to plant flower boxes, move plants, and plant small bushes on the side of the house. This family was among the luckier ones we met even though they lost everything, too. They evacuated to Houston, Texas, where elder son, Sam, started high school and graduated four years later. He is now going to Delgado Community College in New Orleans to study business. 

Jack was able to find another job with the same company. Sandra, a teacher, sorely missed home. Then, when the family returned, she learned that she no longer had a job because all the city’s public school teachers were let go to make way for a new charter school system. She now cares for her aunt, who the students came to love for her jokes, songs and concern over their cuts and bruises. 

On the third day, we worked at Maybelline’s house where we had to scrape the eaves and overhangs before we applied the beige-colored paint.  When we arrived, she invited us to a breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausages, grits and biscuits. Before we left, she served us stewed chicken with pasta and red sauce. During these meals she told us her story.


Maybelline was a special education teacher all her life but then went into retirement after officials dissolved the public schools. She had successfully evacuated the city but moved 15 times before she moved back into her house. While away, she still received utility bills even though the electricity and plumbing were not working. After she returned, she lived alone without utilities for nine months. Those few living in the neighborhood went to bed around 6 p.m. and called each other on cell phones to make sure they were all right.

Maybelline did receive some FEMA support but had to make sure she kept all her receipts to prove that she purchased things allowable under the program. She still has the receipts in brown paper bags. She also told us how the insurance companies cheated people out of money.

Students take a much-needed lunch break and rest


On the last day, we painted Christina’s house—with 27 students from other campus ministry programs. They had been working all week on the two-story, wooden house that required scraping and caulking prior to painting.














Oh, yes, we did do some tourist activities. You cannot travel to a place like New Orleans without studying some of its historical and cultural aspects!

Upon our arrival after an 18-hour drive from Michigan, we headed to the Mississippi River for a boat ride on the steam-powered Natchez with a paddle wheel, calliope and all, to learn about the river and the city’s importance as a port.


On Sunday, we attended a Jazz Mass at St. Augustine Parish in Treme, a neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter that was founded by slaves and free people of color in 1793. A musical combo and choir let you know you were in New Orleans as it led people in song.

After Mass, we walked to Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park, where Black slaves used to hold picnics on Sundays. Baba Luther honors that tradition by teaching people how to play African drums. Every Sunday, he sits near a 300-year old “Grandmother Tree” as Mama Sula incenses the area. During the week she also incenses different parts of the city for healing.

Of course, we visited Café du Monde on the French Quarter that is famous for its beignets, a French donut with powered sugar on top. We visited Bourbon Street where the tourists go, but also roamed Frenchmen Street where the locals go. It’s has a Southern-style Greenwich Village feel to it and we danced to reggae music and listened to a street band.

One night we went on a ghost tour and heard not only some gruesome tales about the city’s past residents. Death has come in various ways and Orleaneans are matter of fact about it. After all, New Orleans is home of the jazz funeral where people honor the passing of a loved one with a street parade and then celebrate that the Angel of Death missed them—this time. It’s not that the people are morbid but rather that they prefer to invest their energies in a joie de vivre (French for the “joy of life”), which in New Orleans comes in the form of good food and good music. It was in this same spirit that people were able to start all over again after the heartbreak and hardship they endured with Katrina.

On our last night we had an elegant seafood dinner on the balcony at the French Market Restaurant. As we ate, a golden full moon rose over the Mississipppi River.


The students listened intently and with compassion to the stories of all the people we met and interacted with them with ease. They tried foods that were strange to them like alligator, crawfish, oysters, gumbo, muffalettas and the sloppy but delicious po’ boys.

They were good-spirited throughout the trip, including during the long drives in our cramped parish van. They did their work in a caring and professional way and remained enthusiastic even as they became sunburned, paint-splattered and tired of climbing up and down ladders.

If anyone doubts the strength and capacity of the next generation, don’t. The host of young people I met during Alternative Spring Break is evidence enough to believe that this upcoming generation will make our world a better place. 

This is the St. Tom's group with crew chief Allie (second from left in back) from Beacon of Hope

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Looking for Lincoln in Springfield, Illinois




The stories surrounding Abraham Lincoln makes him one of America’s great heroes.  However, a trip to Springfield, Illinois, where he spent 25 years as a citizen, lawyer and state representative prior to his presidency (1861-65), gives visitors a look at his humanity. 

The first clues about the character of any man are in the way he lives so you’ll probably want to head straight to the historic district at Eighth and Jackson Street and check out his house.  Painted in Quaker yellow with brown trim and green shutters, the stunning Greek Revival contains many pieces of the Lincolns’ mahogany furniture.  Their placement has been carefully studied with the help of historic photos, 1865 stereocards and 1860 drawings from Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper.

Lincoln living room
Mary Lincoln chose the family furnishings for their sturdiness given that her husband and sons often wrestled each other on the living room floor and undoubtedly knocked things over.  The carpets, wallpaper and drapes may seem a little gaudy in color and pattern compared to today’s styles, but they reflect the elegant and refined tastes of a prosperous mid-19th century Midwestern American family. 

As a circuit rider for the Eight Judicial Court (1847-57), Lincoln gained reputation and wealth.  Because he was away from home a lot, sometimes three months at a time, he’d buy gifts for his sons, Willie and Tad, among them a stereoscope (worth about $8,000 to $10,000 today) that displayed three-dimensional photographic images like a Viewmaster.  The boys’ favorites were Niagara Falls and the Taj Mahal. 

Lincoln was a great orator and storyteller and he probably learned this by reading books out loud to his sons in the family’s living room.  He loved Shakespeare, Robert Burns and Charles Dickens and his bookcase held both their books and small busts of each author. 

His shaving stand and mirror are located in his bedroom (couples at that time had separate bedrooms).  He undoubtedly used them to groom himself, including the time he grew a new beard to make himself look presidential, as 11-year-old Grace Bedell suggested he do.  His desk is also there. 

Lincoln kept paintings and busts of his two heroes, Daniel Webster and Henry Clay, in both his home and law office.  These “geniuses,” as he called them, sought to preserve the Union from sectionalism and war through compromise. 

Lincoln’s house was built in 1839 as a one-and-a-half story cottage and later expanded to a full two stories.  The family had an African American maid whom they offered free room and board as well as $1 a day wage (equivalent to $20-27 today).  However, Mary Lincoln insisted on cooking meals, a habit she had to break once they moved into the White House.  In the backyard, the family had a three-seater outhouse and a garden.

Operated by the National Park Service, the Lincoln Home Center and Neighborhood highlights Lincoln’s legal career, his time on the Eighth Judicial Circuit as well as his early political career.  Tour guides eagerly share narratives about his family, the history of the area, the ways of the times. 

The Visitors Center provides a short film on Lincoln’s life in Springfield.  Free tickets are available at the Information Desk.  Parking is $2.  The building is fully accessible to persons with disabilities.

Lincoln-Herndon Law Office

A few walkable blocks from Lincoln’s house is Lincoln-Herndon Law Office, which is a lot more interesting than it sounds.  A Lincolnophile guide not only explains the history of the office and its many artifacts, but Lincoln’s partnership with William Herndon.  The building also contains a replica of a mid-19th century courtroom and post office.  The Tinsley Dry Goods Store, located at the back of the building, offers gifts and Lincoln memorabilia.

Lincoln wrote his first inaugural address in this building on the third floor behind the wall of the present building.  He hid there because his office was too noisy with many, many well-wishers. 

What will also prove fascinating to any history buff is that you walk on the same dark, wide-strip wooden floor that Lincoln did.  And like his house, there is authentic period furniture, including one original chandelier and two stunning replicas made by a local tinsmith.

Lincoln’s law office grew in size when he became a senior partner.  Visitors will soon realize that Lincoln wasn’t just some hick from a Kentucky log cabin.  He was an astute, savvy and wealthy man who knew his way around politics, first as a Whig and later as a leader of the new Republican Party. 


The Lincoln-HerndonLaw Offices State Historic Site is open on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.  Make reservations by calling the Springfield Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1-800-545-7300 or check out its website.

A visit to Springfield allows visitors to get an idea of what it was like to live in a small, Midwestern town.  Lincoln lived in what is now known as the historic district and visitors can walk the same streets he walked and catch the obvious spirit of a place that reflects much of Lincoln himself.  In fact, Springfield became the seat of state government in 1839 thanks to the efforts of Lincoln and his associates, nicknamed the “Long Nine” for their combined height of 54 feet.

“Looking for Lincoln” signs dot the historic district with mini-histories of Lincoln and his times.  You can see how Lincoln pursued the American dream, a path people can more readily identify with here than in Washington where the president is immortalized in stone.

Banners of Lincoln line the downtown streets signifying a profound pride in Springfield’s favorite son without overdoing it. 

Lincoln Museum

The Abraham Lincoln Museum, now in its seventh year, is a stunning and engaging place that focuses on the life of Lincoln with an emphasis on his presidency.  You can study the man through diaries, documents and artifacts while films provide the social and historical context. 

Dioramas create a light and sound experience with the following memorable exhibits:

  • Lincoln at the War Department reading the casualties of war. 
    Diorama of Lincoln and advisers discussing Emancipation Proclamation
  • Lincoln signing the Emancipation Proclamation on January 1, 1863, amid the highly political nature of this law that became the Thirteenth Amendment to the Constitution in December 1865.
  • Young Tad sick in bed with his parents at his side as they take time out from a party in the White House ballroom. 
  • Lincoln’s last moments at Ford’s Theatre where John Wilkes Booth is just about to enter the door leading to the president’s box. 
The most dramatic diorama is Lincoln’s funeral display with his casket.  It is modeled after the only remaining photo of the event that was discovered in 1951 by a 14-year-old Ron Rietveld (pronounced “REET-veld”), who later became a famous Lincoln scholar at California State University-Fullerton.

In the Gallery of Treasures, you can see Lincoln’s blood stains left on his white gloves and Mrs. Lincoln’s fan that they used on that fatal night.  There is also an 1850s silk stovepipe hat from his circuit rider days.  Its brim is worn out by the young lawyer’s thumb and two fingers due to his habit of tipping his hat to passersby. 

Most interesting are the displays showing the vicious attacks Lincoln endured from politicians, journalists and ordinary citizens who hated him because he was perceived as too supportive of Black slaves.  The collection includes negative headlines and stories, cartoons, editorials, and even Lincoln effigy dolls. 

Lincoln was one of four candidates running for president in 1860 and he captured only 40 percent of the vote entirely on support in the Northern states.  He won two of 996 counties in the South and was not even on the ballot in nine Southern states.  His victory in the Electoral College was more decisive, however, with 180 votes while his three opponents garnered only 123 votes. 

The War Gallery also hosts letters and photos of Civil War soldiers.

Of particular interest is the “Civil War in Four Minutes,” a film which follows the course of the war.  You can see the changing battle lines across a map the eastern United States as explosions denote battles and an “odometer of death” keeps a running total of Union and Confederate casualties. 

The museum has done an admirable job of depicting Lincoln’s life in an engaging and digestible way.  School children can learn as much as any adult.

Lincoln’s tomb 

Another experience of the man necessitates a visit to his tomb at Oak Ridge Cemetery.  I fortunately happened upon it for the Flag-Lowering Ceremony (held on Tuesdays June through August at 7 p.m.) conducted by the 114th Infantry Regiment Illinois Volunteers Reactivated

A trumpeter and drummer begin the ceremony with songs of the era:  “Battle Hymn of the Republic,” “When Johnny Comes Marching Home Again.”  Union “soldiers” pay their respects to the fallen president with weapons inspection, the lowering of the state and U.S. flags, three rifle rounds and a cannon salute.

You can still feel the heavy sadness of the place nearly 150 years after his death in the quiet and respectful crowds that gather there.  And, you can imagine Mary Todd Lincoln, and her surviving sons, Robert and Thomas “Tad,” grieving, as a handful of women and children dress in period costumes. 

After the ceremony, visitors are invited into the tomb.

The tomb, designed by sculptor Larkin Mead, is constructed of brick sheathed with Quincy granite. The base is a 72-foot square with large semi-circular projections on the north and south sides.  Double sets of north and south stairs lead to a terrace and a 117-foot obelisk rises high above.

Inside, the labyrinthine marble hallways with bronze trim reflect the solemnity of the tomb and the greatness of the man.  Small bronze sculptures featuring different times in his life are also on display:  circuit rider, new president, agonizing president.  Finally, you reach his tomb, where his body lies 10 feet below the surface.  It is a truly moving and unforgettable experience.

Cemetery hours are 9 to 5 and guides are available to answer questions.

Union Station and Union Square Park
The recently-opened Union Station Visitor Center marks another important place in Lincoln’s life:  he left for Washington from here and gave a spontaneous farewell speech to his Springfield neighbors on February 11, 1861.

Union Station Visitor Center, located across from the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum, offers on-site booking of hotel accommodations and special event packages that are scheduled across the state of Illinois (217)557-4588.

Union Square Park has been the scene of many free events and performances, including the 33rd Illinois Vol. Regiment Band and the 10th Illinois Vol. Cavalry Regiment Band (both Civil War re-enactment groups); Mary Lincoln's Strawberry Party (a summertime family event); July 4th celebration, New Century Orchestra, Springfield International Folk Dancers, and many more musical performances throughout the year. 

Springfield

 

 Springfield was a multicultural town when Lincoln lived in it.  There were African Americans, Poles, Irish, Germans, Swedes, and recently, historians discovered a site of an Underground Railroad stop.  The first white settlement of Sangamon County was founded in 1817 when Robert Pullman built a log cabin 10 miles south of what would become Springfield.  





The Old State Capitol Square (next to Lincoln’s law office) commemorates other important moments in Springfield’s history with bronze plaques.

  • The ill-fated Donner Party left from here in April 15, 1846. 
  • Eight hundred Potawatomie walked through town on September 29, 1838, during a forced march out of Indiana toward re-settlement in Kansas.  They did it with great dignity by dressing up in their best clothes, reported Jared P. Irwin, a stone mason working on the State Capitol building.
  • Stephen Douglas gave his famous “Protect the Flag” speech here on April 25, 1861, in an attempt to save the country. 
  • Nearby, the August 1908 race riots on Adams between Fifth and Sixth Streets eventually led to the formation of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) in 1909. 
  • In February 2007 then-U.S. Senator Barack Obama officially announced his candidacy for President of the United States, and in August 2008 he formally introduced his vice-presidential candidate, Joe Biden.
The Old State Capitol Square has become a gathering place, especially at lunchtime.  During the summer there’s a small farmers market and an open-air barbecue.

Looking for Lincoln in Springfield, Illinois

 



The stories surrounding Abraham Lincoln makes him one of America’s great heroes.  However, a trip to Springfield, Illinois, where he spent 25 years as a citizen, lawyer and state representative prior to his presidency (1861-65), gives visitors a look at his humanity. 

The first clues about the character of any man are in the way he lives so you’ll probably want to head straight to the historic district at Eighth and Jackson Street and check out his house.  Painted in Quaker yellow with brown trim and green shutters, the stunning Greek Revival contains many pieces of the Lincolns’ mahogany furniture.  Their placement has been carefully studied with the help of historic photos, 1865 stereocards and 1860 drawings from Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper.

Lincoln living room
Mary Lincoln chose the family furnishings for their sturdiness given that her husband and sons often wrestled each other on the living room floor and undoubtedly knocked things over.  The carpets, wallpaper and drapes may seem a little gaudy in color and pattern compared to today’s styles, but they reflect the elegant and refined tastes of a prosperous mid-19th century Midwestern American family. 

As a circuit rider for the Eight Judicial Court (1847-57), Lincoln gained reputation and wealth.  Because he was away from home a lot, sometimes three months at a time, he’d buy gifts for his sons, Willie and Tad, among them a stereoscope (worth about $8,000 to $10,000 today) that displayed three-dimensional photographic images like a Viewmaster.  The boys’ favorites were Niagara Falls and the Taj Mahal. 

Lincoln was a great orator and storyteller and he probably learned this by reading books out loud to his sons in the family’s living room.  He loved Shakespeare, Robert Burns and Charles Dickens and his bookcase held both their books and small busts of each author. 

His shaving stand and mirror are located in his bedroom (couples at that time had separate bedrooms).  He undoubtedly used them to groom himself, including the time he grew a new beard to make himself look presidential, as 11-year-old Grace Bedell suggested he do.  His desk is also there. 

Lincoln kept paintings and busts of his two heroes, Daniel Webster and Henry Clay, in both his home and law office.  These “geniuses,” as he called them, sought to preserve the Union from sectionalism and war through compromise. 

Lincoln’s house was built in 1839 as a one-and-a-half story cottage and later expanded to a full two stories.  The family had an African American maid whom they offered free room and board as well as $1 a day wage (equivalent to $20-27 today).  However, Mary Lincoln insisted on cooking meals, a habit she had to break once they moved into the White House.  In the backyard, the family had a three-seater outhouse and a garden.

Operated by the National Park Service, the Lincoln Home Center and Neighborhood highlights Lincoln’s legal career, his time on the Eighth Judicial Circuit as well as his early political career.  Tour guides eagerly share narratives about his family, the history of the area, the ways of the times. 

The Visitors Center provides a short film on Lincoln’s life in Springfield.  Free tickets are available at the Information Desk.  Parking is $2.  The building is fully accessible to persons with disabilities.

Lincoln-Herndon Law Office

A few walkable blocks from Lincoln’s house is Lincoln-Herndon Law Office, which is a lot more interesting than it sounds.  A Lincolnophile guide not only explains the history of the office and its many artifacts, but Lincoln’s partnership with William Herndon.  The building also contains a replica of a mid-19th century courtroom and post office.  The Tinsley Dry Goods Store, located at the back of the building, offers gifts and Lincoln memorabilia.

Lincoln wrote his first inaugural address in this building on the third floor behind the wall of the present building.  He hid there because his office was too noisy with many, many well-wishers. 


What will also prove fascinating to any history buff is that you walk on the same dark, wide-strip wooden floor that Lincoln did.  And like his house, there is authentic period furniture, including one original chandelier and two stunning replicas made by a local tinsmith.

Lincoln’s law office grew in size when he became a senior partner.  Visitors will soon realize that Lincoln wasn’t just some hick from a Kentucky log cabin.  He was an astute, savvy and wealthy man who knew his way around politics, first as a Whig and later as a leader of the new Republican Party. 


The Lincoln-HerndonLaw Offices State Historic Site is open on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.  Make reservations by calling the Springfield Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1-800-545-7300 or check out its website.

A visit to Springfield allows visitors to get an idea of what it was like to live in a small, Midwestern town.  Lincoln lived in what is now known as the historic district and visitors can walk the same streets he walked and catch the obvious spirit of a place that reflects much of Lincoln himself.  In fact, Springfield became the seat of state government in 1839 thanks to the efforts of Lincoln and his associates, nicknamed the “Long Nine” for their combined height of 54 feet.

“Looking for Lincoln” signs dot the historic district with mini-histories of Lincoln and his times.  You can see how Lincoln pursued the American dream, a path people can more readily identify with here than in Washington where the president is immortalized in stone.

Banners of Lincoln line the downtown streets signifying a profound pride in Springfield’s favorite son without overdoing it. 

Lincoln Museum

The Abraham Lincoln Museum, now in its seventh year, is a stunning and engaging place that focuses on the life of Lincoln with an emphasis on his presidency.  You can study the man through diaries, documents and artifacts while films provide the social and historical context. 

Dioramas create a light and sound experience with the following memorable exhibits:

  • Lincoln at the War Department reading the casualties of war. 
    Diorama of Lincoln and advisers discussing Emancipation Proclamation
  • Lincoln signing the Emancipation Proclamation on January 1, 1863, amid the highly political nature of this law that became the Thirteenth Amendment to the Constitution in December 1865.
  • Young Tad sick in bed with his parents at his side as they take time out from a party in the White House ballroom. 
  • Lincoln’s last moments at Ford’s Theatre where John Wilkes Booth is just about to enter the door leading to the president’s box. 
The most dramatic diorama is Lincoln’s funeral display with his casket.  It is modeled after the only remaining photo of the event that was discovered in 1951 by a 14-year-old Ron Rietveld (pronounced “REET-veld”), who later became a famous Lincoln scholar at California State University-Fullerton.

In the Gallery of Treasures, you can see Lincoln’s blood stains left on his white gloves and Mrs. Lincoln’s fan that they used on that fatal night.  There is also an 1850s silk stovepipe hat from his circuit rider days.  Its brim is worn out by the young lawyer’s thumb and two fingers due to his habit of tipping his hat to passersby. 

Most interesting are the displays showing the vicious attacks Lincoln endured from politicians, journalists and ordinary citizens who hated him because he was perceived as too supportive of Black slaves.  The collection includes negative headlines and stories, cartoons, editorials, and even Lincoln effigy dolls. 

Lincoln was one of four candidates running for president in 1860 and he captured only 40 percent of the vote entirely on support in the Northern states.  He won two of 996 counties in the South and was not even on the ballot in nine Southern states.  His victory in the Electoral College was more decisive, however, with 180 votes while his three opponents garnered only 123 votes. 

The War Gallery also hosts letters and photos of Civil War soldiers.

Of particular interest is the “Civil War in Four Minutes,” a film which follows the course of the war.  You can see the changing battle lines across a map the eastern United States as explosions denote battles and an “odometer of death” keeps a running total of Union and Confederate casualties. 

The museum has done an admirable job of depicting Lincoln’s life in an engaging and digestible way.  School children can learn as much as any adult.

Lincoln’s tomb 

Another experience of the man necessitates a visit to his tomb at Oak Ridge Cemetery.  I fortunately happened upon it for the Flag-Lowering Ceremony (held on Tuesdays June through August at 7 p.m.) conducted by the 114th Infantry Regiment Illinois Volunteers Reactivated

A trumpeter and drummer begin the ceremony with songs of the era:  “Battle Hymn of the Republic,” “When Johnny Comes Marching Home Again.”  Union “soldiers” pay their respects to the fallen president with weapons inspection, the lowering of the state and U.S. flags, three rifle rounds and a cannon salute.

You can still feel the heavy sadness of the place nearly 150 years after his death in the quiet and respectful crowds that gather there.  And, you can imagine Mary Todd Lincoln, and her surviving sons, Robert and Thomas “Tad,” grieving, as a handful of women and children dress in period costumes. 

After the ceremony, visitors are invited into the tomb.

The tomb, designed by sculptor Larkin Mead, is constructed of brick sheathed with Quincy granite. The base is a 72-foot square with large semi-circular projections on the north and south sides.  Double sets of north and south stairs lead to a terrace and a 117-foot obelisk rises high above.

Inside, the labyrinthine marble hallways with bronze trim reflect the solemnity of the tomb and the greatness of the man.  Small bronze sculptures featuring different times in his life are also on display:  circuit rider, new president, agonizing president.  Finally, you reach his tomb, where his body lies 10 feet below the surface.  It is a truly moving and unforgettable experience.

Cemetery hours are 9 to 5 and guides are available to answer questions.

Union Station and Union Square Park
The recently-opened Union Station Visitor Center marks another important place in Lincoln’s life:  he left for Washington from here and gave a spontaneous farewell speech to his Springfield neighbors on February 11, 1861.

Union Station Visitor Center, located across from the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum, offers on-site booking of hotel accommodations and special event packages that are scheduled across the state of Illinois (217)557-4588.

Union Square Park has been the scene of many free events and performances, including the 33rd Illinois Vol. Regiment Band and the 10th Illinois Vol. Cavalry Regiment Band (both Civil War re-enactment groups); Mary Lincoln's Strawberry Party (a summertime family event); July 4th celebration, New Century Orchestra, Springfield International Folk Dancers, and many more musical performances throughout the year. 

Springfield

 

 Springfield was a multicultural town when Lincoln lived in it.  There were African Americans, Poles, Irish, Germans, Swedes, and recently, historians discovered a site of an Underground Railroad stop.  The first white settlement of Sangamon County was founded in 1817 when Robert Pullman built a log cabin 10 miles south of what would become Springfield.  





The Old State Capitol Square (next to Lincoln’s law office) commemorates other important moments in Springfield’s history with bronze plaques.

  • The ill-fated Donner Party left from here in April 15, 1846. 
  • Eight hundred Potawatomie walked through town on September 29, 1838, during a forced march out of Indiana toward re-settlement in Kansas.  They did it with great dignity by dressing up in their best clothes, reported Jared P. Irwin, a stone mason working on the State Capitol building.
  • Stephen Douglas gave his famous “Protect the Flag” speech here on April 25, 1861, in an attempt to save the country. 
  • Nearby, the August 1908 race riots on Adams between Fifth and Sixth Streets eventually led to the formation of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) in 1909. 
  • In February 2007 then-U.S. Senator Barack Obama officially announced his candidacy for President of the United States, and in August 2008 he formally introduced his vice-presidential candidate, Joe Biden.
The Old State Capitol Square has become a gathering place, especially at lunchtime.  During the summer there’s a small farmers market and an open-air barbecue.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Cold Climate Christmas -- Imagine It in Toronto






How typical is it to go north for Christmas vacation unless you are a skier or snowmobiler? Not very.

Nevertheless, my husband and I recently went to Toronto for the holidays and were quite surprised by the quality of life in this metropolitan area of 4.4 million people.

As we walked the neighborhoods and streets, tried out ethnic restaurants and talked to local residents at an evening pot luck dinner, we discovered a whole new world free of distractions and the usual sightseeing repertoire and instead learned something about life in this popular Canadian city that is very appealing.

The most significant impression I had of Toronto is that its people are so civilized. Imagine that people in the fifth-most populated city in North America actually praise themselves for their tolerance of ethnic and racial differences, which are evident everywhere you go.

Imagine a place where over 100 languages are spoken and neighborhood utility poles don signs advertising language classes in Spanish -- as well as Persian, Urdu and Turkish. Street posters also declare that "Literacy is a right."

Tolerance for differences is exhibited in other ways. In the St. Lawrence Market you see Asian women making French crepes. Stores and shops are largely staffed by young immigrants. The bank ATMs include directions in Chinese characters. We ate a lovely meal in a Thai restaurant to the tunes of the Supremes' hit "Baby Love" and the "Dirty Dancing'" theme song, "Time of My Life."

While it's not unusual to hear other languages spoken in a major urban area, it is a delight as well as a shock to walk clean and litter-free streets.

Imagine seeing a man on a subway escalator accidentally drop a small wad of paper from his pocket and then pick it up.

Incidentally, trash baskets in public areas are separated into litter, recycled newspapers and recycled bottles and cans. And when the trash overflows, you see empty coffee cups neatly placed on the top of the container.

Recycling bins are everywhere, even next to people's front porches should their home not have a backyard.
Environmental and public health concerns abound in Toronto. Imagine a small fish market with a sign that not only recognizes an endangered species (in this case Chilean sea bass) but informs customers that it will not sell that fish.

Imagine holiday TV commercials with information about the World Wildlife Fund, improving your water IQ, joining Alcoholics Anonymous or considering police your best friends on New Year's Eve.

Smoking is not allowed in public buildings or in restaurants and bars. So those who do smoke do it as they walk or as they stand outside a building. I saw one woman in the celebrated Annex Neighborhood where we stayed sitting on her front porch at 10 p.m. without fear of thieves, murderers or terrorists! Instead, she watched other people walking down the street at night as she took her cigarette.

Actually, she wasn't the only one out at night as it appears to be a Toronto custom to sit on the patio during the winter (at home and at some pubs and grills) sipping drinks and talking to friends. Even the residents of a neighborhood senior citizens complex did it. (And that building was right in the middle of the neighborhood, not separated from the rest of the city.)

Imagine that 40 percent of the downtown population walks to work or that a clean, safe and efficient streetcar, bus and subway system moves 1.4 million passengers each work day. (Curious that there were not many obese people walking the streets either!)

Imagine a night-time window shopping excursion where people crowd the well-lit holiday-clad streets inspecting beautiful outdoor displays of fruits and vegetables, CDs, DVDs, clothes and housewares.

Restaurants are jammed with people and storefronts advertise yoga classes, palm reading, massage work and herbal medicine consulting.

Although I am describing Chinatown on Spadina Street, there are plenty of people out at night on the quirky Yonge Street strip, the Bloor Street upper-end commercial district and the eclectic Queen Street West area.

Torontonians recognize that street life is free entertainment as well as an essential part of vibrant urban life.

And imagine all this activity going on and it being relatively quiet. No boom boxes. No high fidelity-sound cars. No wild teenagers hanging out of cars jeering at passers-by. Just people walking outside, being a part of the scene, even if they are alone.

Imagine living in a city where there were only 59 homicides in 2010, 56 in 2009, 67 in 2008, 84 in 2007. So far, 2011 has only 41.

Toronto does have its downsides: the metro system breaks down all too frequently (it happened one time to us); the cost of living is high; the streets are a little dirtier than they should be; the downtown grates host several street people.

On the other hand, every resident, even the homeless, has access to health care.

The people of Toronto have obviously invested in their city, especially in their neighborhoods, and they are willing to pay the price for the services through taxes or special assessments. For example, some neighborhoods ensure their safety through the protection of private police. The sidewalks and streets of every neighborhood were all shoveled, free of snow to accommodate walking and bicycling.

Old houses are beautifully decorated and well-maintained, an indicator of the citizens' pride in themselves, their neighborhoods and their past. Downtown buildings sport this same sentiment, as the old Victorian brick edifices sit comfortably next to modern office and condo skyscrapers.

Toronto serves as both a model and an inspiration for American cities because it illustrates that what it takes to "make a village" is for the people who live there to summon the political will -- and tax dollars -- to make urban life what it can and should be.