Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Cold Climate Christmas -- Imagine It in Toronto

 




How typical is it to go north for Christmas vacation unless you are a skier or snowmobiler? Not very.

Nevertheless, my husband and I recently went to Toronto for the holidays and were quite surprised by the quality of life in this metropolitan area of 4.4 million people.

As we walked the neighborhoods and streets, tried out ethnic restaurants and talked to local residents at an evening pot luck dinner, we discovered a whole new world free of distractions and the usual sightseeing repertoire and instead learned something about life in this popular Canadian city that is very appealing.

The most significant impression I had of Toronto is that its people are so civilized. Imagine that people in the fifth-most populated city in North America actually praise themselves for their tolerance of ethnic and racial differences, which are evident everywhere you go.

Imagine a place where over 100 languages are spoken and neighborhood utility poles don signs advertising language classes in Spanish -- as well as Persian, Urdu and Turkish. Street posters also declare that "Literacy is a right."

Tolerance for differences is exhibited in other ways. In the St. Lawrence Market you see Asian women making French crepes. Stores and shops are largely staffed by young immigrants. The bank ATMs include directions in Chinese characters. We ate a lovely meal in a Thai restaurant to the tunes of the Supremes' hit "Baby Love" and the "Dirty Dancing'" theme song, "Time of My Life."

While it's not unusual to hear other languages spoken in a major urban area, it is a delight as well as a shock to walk clean and litter-free streets.

Imagine seeing a man on a subway escalator accidentally drop a small wad of paper from his pocket and then pick it up.

Incidentally, trash baskets in public areas are separated into litter, recycled newspapers and recycled bottles and cans. And when the trash overflows, you see empty coffee cups neatly placed on the top of the container.

Recycling bins are everywhere, even next to people's front porches should their home not have a backyard.
Environmental and public health concerns abound in Toronto. Imagine a small fish market with a sign that not only recognizes an endangered species (in this case Chilean sea bass) but informs customers that it will not sell that fish.

Imagine holiday TV commercials with information about the World Wildlife Fund, improving your water IQ, joining Alcoholics Anonymous or considering police your best friends on New Year's Eve.

Smoking is not allowed in public buildings or in restaurants and bars. So those who do smoke do it as they walk or as they stand outside a building. I saw one woman in the celebrated Annex Neighborhood where we stayed sitting on her front porch at 10 p.m. without fear of thieves, murderers or terrorists! Instead, she watched other people walking down the street at night as she took her cigarette.

Actually, she wasn't the only one out at night as it appears to be a Toronto custom to sit on the patio during the winter (at home and at some pubs and grills) sipping drinks and talking to friends. Even the residents of a neighborhood senior citizens complex did it. (And that building was right in the middle of the neighborhood, not separated from the rest of the city.)

Imagine that 40 percent of the downtown population walks to work or that a clean, safe and efficient streetcar, bus and subway system moves 1.4 million passengers each work day. (Curious that there were not many obese people walking the streets either!)

Imagine a night-time window shopping excursion where people crowd the well-lit holiday-clad streets inspecting beautiful outdoor displays of fruits and vegetables, CDs, DVDs, clothes and housewares.

Restaurants are jammed with people and storefronts advertise yoga classes, palm reading, massage work and herbal medicine consulting.

Although I am describing Chinatown on Spadina Street, there are plenty of people out at night on the quirky Yonge Street strip, the Bloor Street upper-end commercial district and the eclectic Queen Street West area.

Torontonians recognize that street life is free entertainment as well as an essential part of vibrant urban life.

And imagine all this activity going on and it being relatively quiet. No boom boxes. No high fidelity-sound cars. No wild teenagers hanging out of cars jeering at passers-by. Just people walking outside, being a part of the scene, even if they are alone.

Imagine living in a city where there were only 59 homicides in 2010, 56 in 2009, 67 in 2008, 84 in 2007. So far, 2011 has only 41.

Toronto does have its downsides: the metro system breaks down all too frequently (it happened one time to us); the cost of living is high; the streets are a little dirtier than they should be; the downtown grates host several street people.

On the other hand, every resident, even the homeless, has access to health care.

The people of Toronto have obviously invested in their city, especially in their neighborhoods, and they are willing to pay the price for the services through taxes or special assessments. For example, some neighborhoods ensure their safety through the protection of private police. The sidewalks and streets of every neighborhood were all shoveled, free of snow to accommodate walking and bicycling.

Old houses are beautifully decorated and well-maintained, an indicator of the citizens' pride in themselves, their neighborhoods and their past. Downtown buildings sport this same sentiment, as the old Victorian brick edifices sit comfortably next to modern office and condo skyscrapers.

Toronto serves as both a model and an inspiration for American cities because it illustrates that what it takes to "make a village" is for the people who live there to summon the political will -- and tax dollars -- to make urban life what it can and should be.

 

Thursday, July 5, 2012

 





Our annual pilgrimage to the Stratford Shakespeare Festival stimulated the thought once again about what it’s like to be in a community that devotes itself to beauty.  That beauty matters in a town of Stratford’s size and geography is not only unusual these days, but it summons a reflection about what beauty entails and why it is important for our lives.

Beauty is about having a sense of place.

Stratford, population 30,000, is located in the southern Ontario 90 miles west of the Toronto metropolis.  It sits in the heart of the agricultural belt where farms raise corn, squash, melons, pumpkins, strawberries and pork while industries make products in advanced manufacturing, aerospace, automotive, high tech and financial services.  This strong economic base helps support the Festival and the farms that dot Route 7 thus making the drive there pleasant and picturesque.
 
The Festival has utilized the town’s name as a replica of the original theatre of Stratford on Avon in England.  For 60 years it has offered not only the very best in repertory theatre (including Shakespearean classics, American Broadway musicals, French and British farces, ancient Greek tragedies and native Canadian plays), but the very finest in art, cuisine, gardening and architecture. 

A touch of English haute couture pervades the town partly because of Canada’s historical alliance with England but also because of the number of British Isles nationals who have migrated there.  Locals are low-key, unpretentious and anxious to share their town and its amenities with visitors who soon discover that they are appreciated for their company and interest in art and culture and not just for the money they spend.  In this way, theatre-goers become an integral part of the Stratford community, and look forward to annual return visits during the April to November season. 

Beauty is also about enhancing the interplay between the natural world and the urban environment.

Because Stratford is small, it is easy to get around town by walking.  This factor allows visitors to see and appreciate the clean, flower-lined streets, tidy shops and vibrant neighborhoods firsthand. 

The townspeople have also taken full advantage of the Avon River, which provides a natural setting for leisurely strolls amid the old, leafy trees that line the shore or a paddleboat or pontoon ride on the calm waters.  Visitors mingle among young parents out with their babies, youngsters riding their bikes to soccer practice, and retirees with their grandchildren feeding the ducks, geese, gulls and swans with corn seed, not bread!    

A fanciful, little, wooden bridge connects the mainland to an island in the middle of the river where a modest but reverent plaque to the Festival’s founder, Tom Patterson, has been placed.  

Upriver is the Gallery Stratford, an architecturally quaint building that formerly served as the city’s water pump station.  This small gallery usually features one exhibit on contemporary art and the other on Stratford theatre art.  Outside the gallery is yet another display of the city’s bountiful flowerbeds and a rock garden with a gurgling waterfall surrounded by tall, fragrant pine trees. 

On the way back downtown a walk through the town’s neighborhoods presents a variety of vintage red and yellow brick houses with manicured lawns and lovely wildflower gardens.

The downtown commercial district offers all the cultural accoutrements a visitor could imagine:  oriental rugs, books, china, antiques, Inuit art, Scottish-ware, Canadian winter-proof clothes, restaurants, pubs, pastry shops, cafés, a chocolatier, juice bars and gift shops.  Incidentally, all of these shops are locally-owned and managed so the money stays in town.

Beauty is about paying attention to details. 

The Festival’s fashion artists research and design the actors’ elaborate costumes for historical integrity while a full-time wardrobe staff custom fits each actor’s outfit by hand.  Master craftsmen carefully construct every table, bowl of fruit, spear, and wagon.  Shoemakers cobble all footwear with “mufflers” on the soles to minimize unwanted sounds on the stage.  Choreographers carefully plan battle scenes while musicians compose and perform original works with period instruments. 

These preparations augment the work of the actors who move across the stage with the poise and grace as they masterfully portray their characters.  This repertory theatre emphasizes acting and staging rather than the usual diet of special effects. 


 Restaurants throughout town offer a variety of specialties and price ranges, however, the gourmet venue available in Stratford is particularly spectacular.  Taste, quality and presentation abound in each exquisite dish.  There’s even a gourmet French fries shop!  Stratford’s secret is its Chefs School where many local restaurateurs teach and then practice what they preach in their own establishments. 



Beauty is about hospitality and good conversation.

Stratford accommodations include hotels and motels in and around town as well as cottages and campgrounds.  However, a stay at a bed & breakfast provides a unique experience. 

Stratford has become a magnet for retired Canadians who buy an old Edwardian or Queen Anne house, restore it, and rent out rooms for theatre guests.  B&B hosts are warm and welcoming and visitors often make repeat stays.  Over the years both host and visitor get to know each other and spend time catching up on the year’s events.  Of course, B&Bs also offer visitors enriching conversations with their fellow travelers about the plays and restaurants, and for those interested in politics, an opportunity to compare notes between Canadians and Americans—and other Americans.

Beauty is about leisure.

Taking time away from the regular work and home routine is a state of mind that enables individuals to do the things they like to do without guilt or fear.  Leisure also tends to have a slowing down effect that allows one to be comfortable spending time alone or with another.  As a result, visitors at Stratford can easily indulge themselves in contemplation and quiet reflection without the noisy distractions of modern life. 

Finally, beauty is about feeling safe. 

In this post-9/11 era where security is tantamount to breathing, it soon becomes apparent in Stratford that anyone can walk down the street at any time of the day or night without the fear of being attacked or surveiled.  For Americans, such a feeling is a refreshing luxury and becoming almost a forgotten memory.

All of these elements work together to illustrate that beauty DOES make a difference in people’s lives even if it only entails a visit to a special place like Stratford.  We need such reminders.  Even more, we need to bring such examples of good living to our own cities and towns so that we can have them to ourselves all year long!

Information about the Stratford Festival is available at http://www.stratfordfestival.ca/