French Pop Music 2024

 

 

Kendji Girac + Florent Pagny - Encore

 

SANTA - Popcorn Salé

 

ZAZ - Si jamais j'oublie

Christophe Maé - Il est où le bonheur

 

Bohemian Highlights -- Rothenburg

 

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a picturesque town in Bavaria, Germany, known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and charming old town. It is a popular stop along the "Romantic Road", attracting many tourists each year. Above shows the center of town, which features the marketplace and St. James Church.

We stopped in Rothenburg on our way from Prague to Frankfurt on the last day of our two-week tour of Central Europe. By this time I wasn't taking notes or photos, so I'm depending on Google Images and Wikipedia for assistance.

 

The name "Rothenburg ob der Tauber" is German for "Red castle above the Tauber", which describes the town's location on a plateau that overlooks the Tauber River.  The town was founded in 1170 as the "Red Castle" (Staufer Castle) was being built. Only the “White Tower” and the Markus Tower with the Röder Arch are preserved from the original castle.  
 

 

St. James (St. Jakobskirche in German) is a Lutheran church (originally Catholic). Built between 1311 and 1484, it is on a medieval pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

 The church contains the celebrated Holy Blood Altarpiece by Tilman Riemenschneider, a master woodcarver and sculptor, as well as a monumental altarpiece painted by Friedrich Herlin.

             

 

 

Rothenburg was a walled city and portions of the wall are still visible--and climb-able, although for me seeing is believing while climbing is not an option. These walls were built in the 13th century.

 

Rothenburg played a special role during World War II. The Nazis believed it was the "most German of German towns", so throughout the 1930s they even organized day trips to the town from across the Reich. In October 1938 townspeople expelled its Jewish citizens. I saw a small medallion in front of a shop on the main street that said the store was owned by Jewish family for several decades.

Newer eastern part of Rothenburg following Allied bombing raid with the still standing outer walls of the buildings which were used in the rebuild, 1945

The most interesting story about Rothenburg occurred during the close of the war in March 1945.  The Nazis stationed soldiers there to defend it as the Allies were bombing many German cities. On March 31, they killed 37 people and destroyed 275 houses (about a third of the cities' houses), several public buildings, and over 2,000 feet of wall. However, the U.S. Assistant Secretary of War, John J. McCloy knew of the historic significance and beauty of Rothenburg, and he ordered U.S. Commanding General Jacob L. Devers not to use artillery to take the town. Instead, six soldiers from the 15th Infantry Regiment, 3rd Divivision were sent to negotiate a German surrender of the town. As the soldiers encountered a German guard, they held up a white flag and said that the Allies would spare the town from bombing if they gave up in the next three hours. The German commander, Major Thömmes, had been told by Hitler to fight to the end. However, Thömmes ignored the order and gave up the town in order to save it. American troops occupied the town on April 17, 1945. In November 1945, former Secretary McCloy was named an honorary citizen of Rothenburg.

Rothenburg was also rumored to be the setting for a brief shot in one of the Harry Potter films: The Deathly Hallows Part 1 in March 2020. However, another town was used instead. Even the helicopter shots above the town were axed.

Today, many newly-married couples come to the town to take their wedding photos. 

Sources

Wikipedia -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rothenburg_ob_der_Tauber 

Harry Potter filming in Rothenburg -- https://geektrippers.com/harry-potter-germany-filming-location/

Bohemian Highlights -- Slovakia

We drove through Slovakia on our way to Budapest, Hungary. The ride was actually enchanting. The terrain was mountainous. The forests were thick. The villages were quaint and usually dominated by a church building. This was a refreshing change from the flat terrain we had been traveling through since we left Frankfurt, Berlin, and Poland. The sun even came out a little bit.

And there were Gypsies! They live in dilapidated houses apart from everyone else, and they like it that way. They are not well-educated. Girls marry around age 15 and by age 20 they have four children. They are a huge social problem in Slovakia and in Hungary. Sylvija advised us to keep a sharp eye on our purses and backpacks walking in towns because Gypsies tend to engage in pickpocket activities.

I tried to get a photo of a house of Gypsies, but failed. Travel writer Simon Bird from Jurassic Coast in Devon, UK, visited the Gypsies of Slovakia and wrote an interesting blog post on families he visited and their history in Europe. Click here to see it. I'm also posting his photo of one family and their house. It pretty much conforms to the description we were told.

We stopped at a ski resort and had lunch in Slovakia. The cafeteria offered various dishes although choosing them was a little confusing. Prices weren't posted, and we had to resort to pointing at what we wanted not exactly knowing if we would get it. But all went well, the food was good, and we had a good break from traveling on the bus. We had a little time to buy souvenirs and I found a jaunty magnet with Slovakian goats and a couple postcards.

 

Slovakia has had a hard time being who she is. She was part of Czechoslovakia that were actually put together in 1918 when it declared its independence from Austria-Hungary. In the 20th century, the borders of Slovakia were drawn and re-drawn depending on the powers and politics surrounding her.

1938 -- part of Nazi Germany

1939-45 -- Slovakia became part of Hungary

1945 -- Czechoslavakia re-established under pre-1938 borders except for Carpathian Ruthenia, which became part of Ukraine (under the USSR)

1948-89 -- Communists seized power in a coup and Czechoslovakia was part of the Eastern Bloc

1989 -- Czechoslovakia peacefully deposes the communist government and all of its leaders resign

1992 -- Czechoslovakia peacefully splits into two independent nations: Czech Republic and Slovakia (December 31, 1992)

Sylvija, our guide for the trip, said that both countries seem to be happy about the split. She also said that Slovakia is another example in Central Europe where the borders have constantly shifted. Sylvija told us of an elderly woman who bragged that she had lived in seven different countries--and never left her village! By the timeline, it is easy to see that.

 

Slovakian Culture and Products

The population in Slovakia is about 5 million and the people speak a Slavic language similar to the Czech language. It is so close that people from the two countries can understand each other in their own language! These languages are very consonant heavy. For example, KRTKO means mole. ZMRZLINA means ice cream. Here are some traditional foods that Slovakia offers. Sylvija was always good at introducing us to local and traditional foods.  

Klenovecky syrec is a semi-hard cheese made from unpasteurized sheep's or cow's high-quality milk. It has been produced in the mountainous Gemer-Malohont region in the Slovak Republic since 1850.The cheese can be either smoked or unsmoked and it is handmade in shepherd's huts, on a farm, or at industrial dairies.

 

Briza is a local specialty made of small gnocci-like dumplings that are served with tangy sauerkraut or potatoes inside and various toppings like melted cheese and bacon on top.  

Red and white wine are also produced in Slovakia. It arrived there thanks to Empress Maria Therese (1717-1780) who loved wine. 

Maria Theresa served as the Archduchess of Austria and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia from 1740-80. She was the only female ruler of the Habsburgs and one of the most capable rulers. She had an engaging naturalness and, according to one historian, was "the most human of the Habsburgs." She was a key political figure in 18th century Europe where she provided unity in a sea of diverse dominions. She was also responsible for many significant reforms and for leading Austria through several wars. In her spare time she had 16 children, 10 of which survived to adulthood.

 

The beer of choice made in Slovakia is Golden Pheasant--Zlatý Bažant. It is the most exported Slovak beer brand. Founded in 1969 and produced at its brewery in Hurbanovo, Golden Pheasant was acquired by the Heineken International group in 1995 adding on to the group's repertoire of over 170 beer brands from 125 breweries in 70 countries.

 

 

The biggest, most important sport in Slovakia is ice hockey. Tennis is also big.  

Slovakia makes car parts for Volkswagon (Germany) and Citroën (France). These parts are cheaper thanks to Slovakia's membership in the European Union; it also uses the Euro as its currency. Slovakia does not make its own cars.

Countryside Sights

The forests of Central Europe are beautiful and plentiful. It is interesting to me that after centuries of development and war that the forests have survived. Likewise the region is full of agricultural lands. To avoid sprawling towns, the houses are grouped together instead of spread out, as we do in the USA. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Churches dominate the townscape. However, it is not clear by looking at them whether they are Catholic or Protestant even though Catholicism remains the main religion. Their domes are either gothic steeples that go back to the 14th century or onion-shaped baroque domes that were influenced by the Byzantine Church. Catholicism remains the main religion in Slovakia.

Modern houses are simple and the graves in the cemetery are built above ground.

Nature seems to be valued as towns are built in clusters and thus leave the countryside "untamed".

Long Houses

A peculiar type of construction for older houses are the "long houses". They are long and narrow where the front door abuts the road. The more expensive houses are sited along the river in the same way. The idea behind this kind of construction is so that the family can plan for the next generation by attaching another section of living space to the house. Sometimes a barn is attached to make the house warmer with the animals' heat. The shingles are wooden and dipped in oil. Thatched roofs are used, too, but they are more expensive. 

These houses are deemed cultural treasures and therefore protected by the government. The owners of the houses are obligated to keep them up, and  forbidden to tear them down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This limestone outcropping is the site of the Orava Castle. It was once the site of an old wooden fortification built after the Mongol invasion of Hungary in 1241. Today, it is owned by the Thurzo family, a coal magnate, whose family bought the castle in the mid-16h century. 

Orava Castle was originally built on land situated in the Kingdom of Hungary. Its history follows a pattern of construction, destruction, reconstruction, fire, various ownerships, and territorial squabbles. The original design was in Romanesque and Gothic style; it was later reconstructed as a Renaissance and Neo-Gothic structure wrappted around the 520-metre spur on which it perches.

Many scenes of the 1922 film Nosferatu were filmed here where the castle represented Count Orlok's Transylvanian castle.

 

Communist influence on buildings and projects

The ugliness present in the Bohemian countries we traveled through would show the influence of the post-war Communists who were trying to industrialize the country without regard to the local culture, ethnic groups, or to nature. Their construction became great sources of pollution since there were no environmental or ecological considerations or regulations involved when they were built. Nature didn't count at all from these monstrosities. Many projects have been abandoned, like this electrical plant (left) and factory (below).

 

One interesting relic of the Communist era that remains is the border gate between Slovakia and Hungary. Once these countries joined the European Union, the border gates were no longer needed. Neither were the government offices or housing for border agents. They remain abandoned today.

 

Casinos, however, are now permitted in these days after Communism--and seem to be pretty popular given the crowded parking lot.

 

 

 

 

 

Fortunately, natural areas like the Tatra Mountains, however, were preserved as national parks protected them from factories and other industrial projects. These mountains border Slovakia and Poland. The countries entered into an agreement when the Communists arrived after World War II. (Photo by the National Park of the High Tatras) 

Although we did not spend much time in Slovakia, I found I liked it and would go back if I could. Sylvija's stories about the people and their lives showed they had a sense of grit in tackling life's difficulties and vicissitudes. Meanwhile, the countryside was engaging and beautiful.

 

Sources

Simon Bird and the Gypsies -- https://www.travelartist.info/slovakian-gypsies

Czechoslovakia -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Czechoslovakia

Orava Castle -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orava_Castle

Klenovecky syrec (Sheep cheese) -- https://www.tasteatlas.com/best-rated-sheeps-milk-cheeses-in-slovakia

Briza dumplings -- https://www.tasteatlas.com/best-rated-dumplings-in-slovakia

Golden Pheasant beer -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zlat%C3%BD_Ba%C5%BEant

Empress Maria Theresa -- https://www.britannica.com/biography/Maria-Theresa/Late-years

 

Bohemian Highlights -- Auschwitz

              Entrance to the camp where the sign says: "Work will make you free."

 

 

An orchestra played classical music at the entrance as the workers left the camp to work in the fields. 

The classification system labeled prisoners so that they were easily identifiable. This system also helped rank among prisoners who would then discriminate against those they believed were beneath them. Rivalries thus helped the Nazis maintain order in the camp.

 

Prisoners came to Auschwitz from all over Europe. The first prisoners were political protesters, criminals, and troublemakers. The Nazis then targeted undesirables: Soviet POWs, Jehovah's witnesses, gypsies, homosexuals, and Jews. Jews were easy to round up because many cities had Jewish ghettos where they were forced to live separately from the rest of the population.

 

The process for Jewish deportation was simple: round them up and put them on trains headed for Auschwitz or some other concentration camp. These official photos were posted in the Auschwitz museum. I display them here to remind viewers that most of these people were killed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whole families were arrested and taken to a train leading to an unknown destination. They arrive as families but were immediately separated and herded into lines where they are selected for life or death.

 

People in line awaiting selection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 SS officers prepare for selection as a crowd of people form a line and await their fate.

 

 

An SS officer decides who lives and who dies with a mere pointing of his finger.

 

After selection, soldiers casually move on to their other duties. People left their belongings in a pile that was later disposed of.

These women and children were among those immediately sentenced to death in the gas chambers.

 

 

A mother leads her children to their deaths. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The shower room. The beams were lined with spickets that sprayed the gas on the people.

For me it was the most difficult place to be in. I couldn't even take photos and relied on Google Images for these photos.

 

 

Scratches on the wall made by people trying to get out of the gas chambers. After the gassing, the guards had a difficult time opening the door to take out the bodies; people were crowded at the door also trying to get out.

 

 

A memorial for those who died in the gas chambers.                     

The ovens of Auschwitz were operating all day and all night. The smell must have been horrendous; another inescapable feature about this concentration camp. The town is right next to the camp, so it is doubtful that the villagers didn't know what was going on in their town.

 

The Nazis collected these things, and the museum put them on display.

 

Empty canisters of Zyklon B, a hydrogen cyanide poison used in the gas chambers to kill 1 million people efficiently. It was originally used as a common disinfectant and insecticide.

Dishes, pots, teapots, and basins prisoners brought with them in the hopes that they would leave the camp alive.

 

 

 

    Suitcases with people's names on them, and piles of shoes taken from prisoners.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

I was surprised that the buildings were substantial, that is, made of brick. The camp had formerly been the barracks for Polish soldiers, which the Nazis took over after they invaded Poland in September 1939.The buildings housed the workers who were spared from death although they were jammed into small spaces; several people shared the same bed. The room on the right was a bit more spacious. It was reserved for those who performed special duties for the Nazis.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Roll call took place between these buildings. It could sometimes take 3-5 hours while people clad only in their prison pajamas stood at attention in all kinds of weather. 

 

Barbed wire was everywhere. You always knew you were a prisoner.

 

The Nazis also sent people to death by hanging and by firing squad. The firing squad wall has become a memorial for those who died there. Ashes collected from the dead are put into a memorial urn. This sculpture captures the essence of the camp with a different version of "Mother and Child" that illustrates the desperation and senselessness of genocide.

 

   "Mother and Child"

 

I had long wanted to visit a concentration camp and was glad that Auschwitz was a part of this tour. It was numbing to be there and sickening to later reflect on it and to put this blog together. I'm glad I went, and I recommend that travelers visit a camp. However, I never want to go to another camp, and I pray that such camps are never built again.

 

Sources

The Horror of the Gas Chamber Poison -- https://www.thoughtco.com/zyklon-b-gas-chamber-poison-1779688