Thursday, November 7, 2013

Morocco -- Marrakesh



Marrakesh is Morocco's most intoxicating city. Ever since Morocco's Jewel of the South became a trading and resting place on the ancient caravan routes from Timbuktu, the city has barely paused for breath.


Ali ben Youssef Medersa


If you want a little breath taken out of you, don't pass up the chance to see this extraordinarily well-preserved 16th-century Koranic school, North Africa's largest such institution. The delicate intricacy of the gibs (stucco plasterwork), carved cedar, and zellij (mosaic) on display in the central courtyard makes the building seem to loom taller than it really does. As many as 900 students from Muslim countries all over the world once studied here, and arranged around the courtyard are their former sleeping quarters—a network of tiny upper-level rooms that resemble monks' cells. The building was erected in the 14th century by the Merenids in a somewhat different style from that of other medersas; later, in the 16th century, Sultan Abdullah el Ghallib rebuilt it almost completely, adding the Andalusian details. The large main courtyard, framed by two columned arcades, opens into a prayer hall elaborately decorated with rare palm motifs as well as the more-customary Islamic calligraphy. The medersa also contains a small mosque.




Souks
The vast, labyrinth of narrow streets and derbs at the center of the medina is the souk—Marrakesh's marketplace and a wonder of arts, crafts, and workshops. Every step brings you face-to-face with the colorful handicrafts and bazaars for which Marrakesh is so famous. In the past, every craft had a special zone within the market—a souk within the souk. Today savvy vendors have pushed south to tap trading opportunities as early as possible, and few of the original sections remain. Look for incongruities born of the modern era. Beside handcrafted wooden pots for kohl eye makeup are modern perfume stores; where there is a world of hand-sewn djellabas at one turn, you'll find soccer jerseys after the next; fake Gucci caps sit beside handmade Berber carpets, their age-old tassels fluttering in the breeze.


As you wander through the souk, take note of landmarks so you can return to a particular bazaar without too much trouble. Once the bazaars' shutters are closed, they're often unrecognizable. The farther north you go the more the lanes twist, turn, and entwine. Should you have to retrace your steps, a compass comes in handy, as does a mental count of how many left or right turns you've taken since you left the main drag. But mostly you'll rely on people in the souk to point the way. If you ask a shopkeeper, rather than a loitering local you'll be less likely to be "guided."



winston churchill painting




















This is an oil painting of Marrakesh done by Prime Minister Winston Churchill, which he gave to his friend President Franklin Roosevelt following the 1943 Casablanca Conference. The painting depicts the Tower of Katoubia Mosque in Marrakesh.


Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Morocco -- Special Experiences



For a sense of Moroccan culture, a good start would be to embrace some of the ongoing rituals of daily life. These are a few highlights—customs and sites you can experience with relative ease.

 

Mint Tea

When in Morocco, it's a good idea to make friends with mint tea. This sweet and aromatic brew is the national drink, offered for, with, and following breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It's served as an icebreaker for anything from rug selling in the Meknès souk to matchmaking at the Imilchil marriage market. Dubbed "Moroccan (or Berber) whiskey," thé à la menthe is Chinese green tea brewed with a handful of mint leaves and liberally loaded up with sugar. Introduced to Morocco only in the mid-19th century when blockaded British merchants unloaded ample quantities of tea at major ports, the tradition has now become such a symbol of Moroccan hospitality that not drinking three small glasses of tea when your host or business contact offers it to you is nearly a declaration of hostilities. Generally ordered by the pot and poured from on high in order to release the aromas and aerate the beverage, mint tea is recommended in cold weather or in sweltering heat as a tonic, a mild stimulant, and a digestive.

 

Music

Music is integral to daily and ritual life in Morocco, both for enjoyment and as a form of social commentary. It emanates from homes, stores, markets, and public squares everywhere you go. Joujouka music is perhaps the best known, but every region has its own distinct sound. In the Rif you'll hear men singing poetry accompanied by guitar and high-pitched women's choruses; in Casablanca, rai (opinion) music, born of social protest, keeps young men company on the streets; cobblers in the Meknès medina may work to the sounds of violin-based Andalusian classical music or the more-folksy Arabic melhoun, sung poetry; and you know you've reached the south when you hear the banjo of the roving storytelling rawais in Marrakesh. Gnaoua music is best known for its use in trance rituals, but it has become popular street entertainment; the performer's brass qaraqa hand cymbals and cowrie shell–adorned hat betray the music's sub-Saharan origins. Seek out live music at public squares such as Marrakesh's Djemaâ el-Fna, or attend a festival, a regional moussem (pilgrimage festival), or even a rural market to see the performances locals enjoy.

 

Markets

Moroccan markets, souks, and bazaars buzz with life. Every town and city in Morocco revolves, in one way or another, around its market, and beginning your exploration at the hub of urban life is one of the best ways to start a crash course in wherever you find yourself. The chromatically riotous displays of fruit and vegetables are eye-bogglingly rich and as geometrically complex as the most intricate aspects of Islamic architecture and design. Fez el-Bali is virtually all market, with the exception of the craftsmen and artisans preparing their wares for market. Fez's henna souk is famous for its intimate ambience and archaic elegance. Marrakesh's central market stretching out behind Djemaâ el-Fna square could take a lifetime to explore. The Meknès market next to Place el-Hedim is smaller but loaded with everything from sturdy earthenware tagines to a wide selection of Moroccan spices and fish fresh from the Atlantic. Casablanca's Marché Central in the heart of the city is one of the most picturesque and least Europeanized parts of an otherwise unremarkable urban sprawl. Essaouira's crafts and produce market shares this light and cheerful town's easygoing atmosphere, and shopping there becomes a true pleasure rather than a grim battle over haggling leverage.

Trek the mountains of the High Atlas.

For spectacular vistas and fresh air, the High Atlas is a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of urban Morocco. Hiking North Africa's tallest peak, Djebel Toubkal, rising to nearly 14,000 feet, is only a two-day climb best done in late summer. Guides can lead amateur hikers through rural Berber villages and rocky paths less strenuous but equally rewarding. Head to the Ourika Valley for a variety of outdoor adventure—it's a justifiably popular region to hang-glide, ski, or ride mules to hidden waterfalls and tranquil hilltop gardens.

 

Bargain for babouches in the leather tanneries of Fez.

With the stench of animal skins curing in the hot sun and sounds of workmen laboring in the rainbow of dye vats beneath rows of open terraces, there is no better place to contribute to the artisanal cooperatives if you want to buy beautifully handmade leather house slippers, bags, belts, jackets, and poufs. Negotiating in one of the many shops claiming to be the best producer of leather goods guarantees a memorable experience as you haggle dirhams while sniffing a complimentary bunch of mint leaves to offset the strong acidic smell of natural curing ingredients in the medina air.

 

Dine on kebabs and harira from a street-market grill.

The intoxicating aromas of freshly grilled skewers of meat and simmering spicy soup in qissarias (open markets) and roadside stands tantalize even the most cautious traveler. Follow the rising smoke from burners and indulge in local cuisine ranging from beef brochettes and merguez sausages to fried calamari and whole fish caught fresh from the Atlantic and seared to perfection. For the more adventurous gourmand, snail soup and sheep's brains can be sampled. Sop it all up with freshly baked kesra (flatbread).

 

People-Watching

Morocco is a visual spectacle in every sense, and the human fauna are beyond a doubt the runaway stars of the show. French painters such as Delacroix and Matisse and the great Spanish colorist Marià Fortuny all found the souks, fondouks, and street scenes of Marrakesh, Fez, and Tangier irresistible. Today's visitors to this eye-popping North African brouhaha are well advised to simply pull up a chair and take in some of the most exotic natural street theater in the world.

 

People-watch in Fez el-Bali.

The to-and-fro pulsing of Fez's medina makes it the perfect place to watch Moroccans doing what Moroccans do. Great spots include the cafés around Bab Boujeloud and Bab Fteuh, though the latter is much less amenable to travelers.

 

People-watch on the Djemaâ el-Fna in Marrakesh.

From morning to night, the historic square at the center of the medina guarantees to entertain and provide a glimpse into local living and the unusual. Surrounded by colorful dried fruit and juice carts scattered near terraced cafés and rows of shops brimming with activity, the carnival-like atmosphere of snake charmers, fortunetellers, monkey handlers, musicians, and costumed water sellers adds to the exotic flavor of what was once the principal meeting point for tradesmen and regional farmers, as well as gruesome site for public criminal beheadings in ancient times.

 

Appreciate Koranic scholarship in a historic medersa.

A quiet spot in front of the central marble ablutions pool is the perfect place to view masterpieces of Islamic architecture. Look for intricate zellij tilework along arched corridors, ornate wood carvings in domed ceilings, sculpted stone friezes bearing symbolic Arabic calligraphy, and beautifully detailed stained-glass windows in prayer halls and reflection rooms of these culturally rich buildings.

 

Savor the scents and sights of a food souk.

Weave through the labyrinth of open and covered streets to discover a feast for the senses. The indoor food souk of Meknès is a must. Along coastal towns, discover fish markets by the harbor. In rural villages, look for carts peddling freshly picked apricots and dates. From pyramids of marinated olives and preserved lemons to bulging sacks of finely milled grains and multicolored spices and nuts, the food souks reflect the wide range of aromatic ingredients used in traditional Moroccan cuisine. Follow your nose to sweet rosewater and honey-laden pastries flavored with cinnamon, saffron, and almonds.

 

Listen and learn at a local festival.

One of the best ways to experience the rich heritage is to participate in a local event. Head to Kelaa-des-Mgouna in the Dadès Valley in May; home to the country's largest rose water distillery plant, this small oasis village celebrates the flower harvest each spring. In early June, enjoy the chants, lyricism, and intellectual fervor of international musicians, Sufi scholars, and social activists at the World Sacred Music Festival in Fez. In late June, the traditions of Gnaoua music, a blend of African, Berber and African song and dance, are celebrated in the seaside resort village of Essaouira. Experience the Imilchil Berber marriage feast in autumn. In December, the Marrakech International Film Festival is the hottest spot for international celebrity sightings. The all-important Eid al-Fitr (Feast of the Fast Breaking) best showcases Moroccan tradition with three days of joyous celebration at the end of Ramadan.

 

Pamper yourself in a hammam.

Getting scrubbed and steamed at a local hammam can do wonders for the weary. Whether you choose a communal public bath or private room in an upscale riad, this traditional therapy of brisk exfoliation and bathing using natural cleansers has promoted physical and mental hygiene and restoration for centuries. Public hammams are clean and inexpensive. Le Royal Mansour and the Angasa Spa in Marrakesh are exceptionally luxurious spots to experience this unique cultural ritual.

 

Relax in a riad.

Forgo the standard setting of a modern hotel chain, and opt for a room with character in the heart of the medina. Former private homes, multistoried riads have been restored to their original beauty and authenticity, furnished with antiques and local crafts, and outfitted with latest technology for those who want to stay connected. Many are family owned and operated, providing guests with personalized service, generous breakfasts, and spacious accommodations overlooking lush inner courtyard gardens. More luxurious riads have full-scale spas, panoramic terrace bars, swimming pools, and world-class restaurants.

 

Soothe the eyes in the blue-washed town of Chefchaouen.

Founded in the 15th century by Spanish exiles, the village of Chefchaouen tucked in the foothills of the Rif Mountains, is widely considered to be one of Morocco's most picturesque places. Relax beneath verdant shade trees on the cobblestoned Plaza Uta el-Hamman. Wander the steep Andalusian passageways, where buildings bathed in cobalt and indigo hues blend with terracotta-tiled roofs, pink-scarved women, violet blossoms, and ochre-and-poppy red wool carpets to create an incredibly vibrant canvas of color.

 

Ride a camel to the dunes of the Sahara.

For an unforgettable adventure, mount a dromedary to experience the undulating orange dunes and abandoned kasbahs of the desert, a magical region immortalized in film and fiction. Select an overnight tour to stay in a Bedouin tent in the Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga desert wilderness.


The Outdoors

A range of spectacular landscapes has made Morocco a major destination for rugged outdoor sporting challenges and adventure travel. Much of Morocco's natural beauty lies in its mountains, where the famous Berber hospitality can make hiking an unforgettable experience. You can arrange most outdoor excursions yourself or with the help of tourist offices and hotels in the larger cities. Rock climbing is possible in the Todra and Dadès gorges and the mountains outside Chefchaouen. Oukaïmeden has facilities for skiing, and a few other long, liftless runs await the more athletic. Golf is available in Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh, and Agadir. Several High Atlas rivers are suitable for fishing.

High Atlas. People come from around the world to trek in these mountains, drawn by the rugged scenery, bracing air, and rural Berber (Imazighen) culture. Hiking is easily combined with mule riding, trout fishing, and vertiginous alpine drives. Merzouga dunes. Southeast of Erfoud, beyond Morocco's great oasis valleys, these waves of sand mark the beginning of the Sahara. Brilliantly orange in the late-afternoon sun, they can be gloriously desolate at sunrise. Palm groves and villages, Tafraoute. A striking tropical contrast to the barren Anti-Atlas Mountains and the agricultural plains farther north, the oases are scattered with massive, pink cement houses built by wealthy urban merchants native to this area.

 

Architecture

Refined Islamic architecture graces the imperial cities of Fez, Meknès, Marrakesh, and Rabat. Mosques and medersas (schools of Koranic studies) dating from the Middle Ages, as well as 19th-century palaces, are decorated with colorful geometric tiles, bands of Koranic verses in marble or plaster, stalactite crevices, and carved wooden ceilings. The mellahs built by Morocco's Jews with glassed-in balconies contrast with the Islamic emphasis on turning inward. French colonial architecture prevails in the Art Deco and neo-Mauresque streets of Casablanca's Quartier des Habous. Outside these strongholds of Arab influence are the pisé (rammed earth) kasbahs in the Ouarzazate–Er-Rachidia region, where structures built with local mud and clay range from deep pink to burgundy to shades of brown.

Aït-Benhaddou, near Ouarzazate. Strewn across a hillside, the red-pisé towers of this village fortress resemble a melting sand castle. Crenellated and topped with blocky towers, it's one of the most sumptuous sights in the Atlas Mountains. La Bahia Palace, Marrakesh. Built as a harem's residence, and interspersed with cypress-filled courtyards, La Bahia has the key Moroccan architectural elements—light, symmetry, decoration, and water. Bou Inania medersa, Fez. The most celebrated of the Kairaouine University's 14th-century residential colleges, Bou Inania has a roof of green tile, a ceiling of carved cedar, stalactites of white marble, and ribbons of Arabic inscription.


Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Morocco -- Food

One of the reasons I decided to go to Morocco was because the country is famous for its food.

According to Wikipedia, the cuisine is extremely refined, thanks to Morocco's interactions and exchanges with other cultures and nations over the centuries. Moroccan cuisine has been subject to Arab, Moorish and Berber influences. The cooks in the royal kitchens of Fes, Meknes, Marrakesh, Rabat and Tetouan refined it over the centuries and created the basis for what is known as Moroccan cuisine today.
 
Morocco's first inhabitants, the Berbers, left their mark on the country's cuisine with staple dishes like tagines and couscous. New spices, nuts, dried fruits, and the common combination of sweet and sour tastes (such as a lamb tagine containing prunes), arrived with the Arab invasion. Olives and citrus fruits can be traced to the Moors. The Ottoman Empire can be thanked for introducing barbecue (kebabs) to Morocco. The French, although their colonization period was quite short, left behind a tradition of cafés, pastries, and wine. (Fodor's Morocco)

Drinks

Mint tea is at the very heart of not only Moroccan cuisine but of the culture itself. Whether in cosmopolitan Casablanca or a rural Berber village in the Atlas Mountains, there is one universal truth: até will be served. Recipes vary from region to region—and even from family to family—but all contain a mix of green tea, fresh mint leaves, and sugar. Coffee is served black (café noir), with a little milk (café crème), or half milk/half coffee (nuss nuss in the Morocan dialect). Orange juice, freshly squeezed, is abundantly available in cafés and restaurants.

Mint tea is a symbol of friendship and hospitality.  It is served before and after meals. business transactions. even during shopping.  Pouring tea is down with a raised pot so that air can flow through the liquid and create a foam on the top of each glass.

Tea came to Morocco through the British around 1880.     






Bread

Bread is truly the cornerstone of a traditional Moroccan meal, eaten at every meal (except with couscous) and also as a snack with mint tea. Bread is a symbol of generosity and hospitality. and it is treated with respect.  Due to bread's cultural and religious significance, it is never thrown away. Families put their leftover bread aside, either for the poor or to feed their animals.

Bread in Morocco comes in many shapes and sizes. The most common is a simple round, somewhat thick and slightly puffy, white bread with a chewy texture and soft crust.  This makes it perfect for sopping up sauces and scooping up food.  Depending on the region, this same bread can be found in a whole-wheat form. In the countryside, breads vary from village to village. Batbout, a soft, pitalike bread is often sold in bakeries stuffed with kefta (seasoned ground meat) and hard-boiled egg slices. Hacha, another type, is a panfried semolina bread.

Spices are also used to scent and flavor the bread.  Sesame (to make it crunch) and anise seeds (a licorice flavor) are often sprinkled in the dough.  Bread is baked fresh every day.  Many people bake their own bread. but others can get hot fresh bread from a street vendor in bakeries and in souks


Spices

Since ancient times. Moroccans have been using spices and herbs to enhance their cooking without making the dishes overly hot and spicy.  Phoenician traders passing through Morocco on ancient spice routes introduced Moroccan cooks to spices.  Centuries later. Arabian invaders. who prized spices more than jewels. added to the Moroccan people's knowledge of how to use spices.

Moroccan cooks have more than two hundred different herbs and spices to choose from.  Spice stalls in Moroccan open-air markets called souks (sooks). overflow with baskets. jars. tins. and sacks full of brightly colored herbs and spices.  Their scents perfume the air.

Several notable spices and herbs are common in Moroccan cuisine: cumin, paprika, garlic, salt, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, saffron, turmeric, sesame seeds, fresh parsley, cilantro, harissa (red chili pepper and garlic paste), olive oil, and olives. Preserved lemons are another key ingredient in many tagine recipes and some salads.

Moroccans rub herbs and spices on meat and fish. and add them to stews. soups. salads. breads. desserts. and beverages.  Most Moroccan dishes contain a variety of spices.  For a dish to be considered well-cooked. no single spice should ever overpower the others.  Instead. there must be a balance of flavors with each dish having its own distinctive taste. color. and perfume.  In fact. Moroccans say that they can tell what their neighbors are cooking by the aroma of the spices drifting out of their kitchens.  

Moroccans rarely measure spices.  Instead. they taste and smell whatever they are cooking to achieve the right balance.  They use different spice mixtures for different dishes.  The most popular of all Moroccan spice blends is called ras el hanout (raz-al-han-oot). which means "the shopkeepers choice."  It contains anywhere from ten to one hundred different spices; although the average is twenty-five.  Each spice vendor has his or her own secret blend.  No two are alike. and every cook has a favorite.


Breakfast

Breakfast in Morocco means mint tea or coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, bread (often topped with olive oil and/or honey), and omelets with khlea (preserved dried meat). Two delightful Moroccan breakfast treats are raif (also call msemn in certain regions), a mix between a crepe and flat pastry, made with intricately layered dough, which is then fried; and baghir, a pancakelike delicacy that is not flipped and has many tiny bubbles on the top side, due to the yeast. Both can be topped with honey or jam.




Moroccan Salads

Zaalouk in foreground with salade marocaine on top left
Moroccan salads mirror the nation's history and culture.  Salads with bulgar (a type of cracked wheat). came with the Berbers.  The Arabs introduced sweet and savory salads. while Spain contributed tomatoes and peppers.  French-style salads use uncooked greens. 

Moroccan salads may be either raw or cooked. The most typical raw Moroccan salad (often called salade marocaine) is made of finely diced tomatoes, onions, garlic, parsley, and salt and then topped with olive oil. Cooked salads, such as zaalouk and bakoula combine different vegetables and spices, all cooked together and served either cold or hot.



Tagines

A tagine is both the name for the stew served in most Moroccan homes for lunch and dinner and the name of the traditional clay pot with a tall, cone-shaped lid in which it is generally slow cooked over low heat. This allows the liquid to thicken and become syrupy.  The flavors blend and the meat and vegetables pull-apart.  

Moroccan tagines use chicken, beef, or lamb as the base along with a variety of other ingredients. Vegetables can include carrots, peas, green beans, along with chickpeas, olives, apricots, prunes, and nuts. Typical tagines include chicken and preserved lemon; lentils with meat and prunes; chicken and almonds; and kefta and egg.

Tagines originated from the Berbers who used them as portable ovens.  They changed over time as different cultures spread their influence in the country. The pots are glazed clay vessels with heavy round bases and cone-shaped lids.  This shape retains heat and traps steam so that whatever is inside does not dry out. Sweet and savory tagines come from Arabs.  The Berbers liked butter as a key ingredient while the Spanish and Moors used olive oil. 



Couscous

Couscous is probably the most famous Moroccan dish, combining tiny little balls of steamed wheat pasta with a meat and vegetable stew that is poured on top. The meat base for the stew can be chicken, beef, or lamb and the vegetables usually include a combination of turnip, carrot, sweet potato, pumpkin, and zucchini with chickpeas and raisins sprinkled throughout. Couscous is typically a Friday lunch meal but can be served at other occasions as well.

Couscous originated with the Berbers who topped the grain with butter.  The Arabs added sauces containing chickpeas vegetables dried fruit meat and spices.  Couscous is Morocco's national dish.

The grain and sauce are served as one dish usually on a glistening brass tray.  The grain is arranged in a pyramid with a hollow in the top so the sauce can be poured into it.  Diners roll bits of couscous into a ball dip the ball in the sauce and pop it in their mouths--a practice that takes some skill.  "The popping motion is important becuase if performed inaccurately the ball will crumble before it makes it into your mouth" explains Moroccan chef Lahcen Beqqi.  



Seafood

Along the Moroccan coasts, fresh seafood is readily available. Seaside restaurants will serve the catch of the day grilled, fried, or in a tagine—an entire fish, baked with tomatoes, carrots, potatoes and spices.











Barbecue

In Morocco, eating establishments can basically be divided into two categories: the typical sit-down restaurant and what appears at first glance to be a questionable, seedy grill shop. Don't dismiss the grill option out of hand—they usually offer tasty, high-quality meat, at reasonable prices. Customers either buy their meat on premises or at a butcher shop next door. A nominal fee will be charged by the grill shop for grilling the meat. The shop also typically offers a menu with salads, grilled tomatoes and onions, french fries, and beverages to go along with the kabobs.
  

Pastilla

Pastilla is an elaborate meat pie combining sweet and salty flavors. Traditionally filled with pigeon, it is often prepared with shredded chicken. The meat is slow-cooked with spices and then combined with crisp, thin layers of a phyllolike dough; the mixture includes cinnamon and ground almonds. Pastilla is reserved for special occasions due to the complexity of its preparation. It can also be pre-ordered in some pastry shops.








Dessert

After a meal, Moroccan desserts are often limited to fresh seasonal fruit. Many types of Moroccan pastries and cookies exist, almost always made with almond paste. These pastries are often reserved for special occasions or are served to guests with afternoon tea. One common pastry is kaab el-ghzal ("gazelle's horns"), which is filled with almond paste and topped with sugar.

Mhencha (ma-hen-sha). or the snake. is another popular pastry with thin light dough.  It is typically a long coil of warka dough filled with almond paste. then wrapped around itself and resembling a sleeping snake.  It is topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon.




 Fekkas (fik-kas) taste more like crackers than cookies.  They are made with flour. salt. sugar. butter. sesame seeds. anise seeds. almonds. and raisins.  The dough is rolled into a log and partially baked. then left overnight to harden.  The next day the log is thinly sliced and baked again to take the moisture out of the dough.  The result is a dry. hard. crunchy. slightly sweet cookie with a licorice-like flavor--and good for dunking in tea.


Dietary Rules 

Most Moroccans are Muslim and they follow dietary rules set down by the Koran. their holy book.  Acceptable food is said to be halal. which means lawful.  Unacceptable foods are said to be haram. or forbidden.  Haram foods include pork and pork products such as gelatin. animal blood. the meat of carnivores (e.g.. dogs. wolves. rats. lions. and bears). birds of prey such as eagles. and land animals without external ears such as snakes.  Eating the meat of animals offered in religious sacrifice or those killed by other animals. beating. strangulation. or by accident is also not permitted.  Alcoholic beverages are also forbidden.

To be halal. animals must be slaughtered in a way that causes it the least pain.  This involves quickly cutting the major arteries in the animal's throat. which drains all the blood out of its body.



Proper Table Manners


Traditionally. Moroccans eat with the fingers of their right hand.  Their left hand which is used for personal hygiene is never used.  Damp warm towels are passed around before and after the meal to ensure everybody's hands are clean.  The food is placed in the center of the table for all to share.  Bread is passed around and used to scoop up food.  This picture shows the family eating with utensils--another influence from the West.


Sources copied from:
                Fodor's Travel:  http://www.fodors.com/world/africa-and-middle-east/morocco/feature_30009.html
                Barbara Sheen (2011). Foods of Morocco. Farmington Hills. MI:  Kidhaven Press.
                Wikipedia:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moroccan_cuisine



Morocco -- A Culinary History


Moroccan cuisine reflects the country's complex history and diversity of influences. from the ancient Berbers to those who have come and stayed. come and left, or just passed through--the Phoenicians and Roman. and Arabs. Muslim and Jewish exiles from Andalucia, trans-Saharan caravans across the interior and Portuguese along the coast.  English traders who introduced tea in the eighteenth century, and French and Spanish who ruled as colonial administrators in the twentieth.  Each culture has left its mark.

Beginnings
The country's storied past begins with the indigenous Berbers.  A sizable percentage of the country's population today identify themselves as Berber, with many more having Berber ancestry.  Berbers are found predominantly in the mountainous regions and the fringes of the Sahara, where they have retained their own language and customs while absorbing waves of influences.  Great Berber dynasties once controlled not only Morocco but south into western Africa and north into Spain.

The name Berber possibly derives from a Greek and Roman expression referring to those who did not speak the Greek or Roman language, and was later popularized in other languages.  While the name has lost its pejorative connotations (the same root spawned barbarian), many Berbers prefer to call themselves Imazighen (or similar, depending on the dialect), which means "free men" or "noble men."  Berbers are not a homogenous people. and their language has three main dialects:  Tachelhai, in the southwest, the High Atlas, Draa Valley, and Souss; Tamazight, in the Middle Atlas; and Tarifit (or Riffi), in the Rif Mountains.  "But we have many shared characteristics," one High Atlas Berber explained to me.  "A shared history, the same roots, similar characters in many respects, lifestyles, food..."

Berber cuisine remains generally rustic, sometimes almost frugal. reflecting the often harsh conditions and austere landscape where they live, but also a deep history that was once nomadic and seminomadic, with little time for various courses or flourish.  They might have settled, but the ancestral cuisine remains.  Grains, legumes, and vegetables continue to be mainstays of the diet.  "We are largely vegetarian not by choice but by poverty," a man in one arid valley wryly told me.  But Berbers are credited with developing some of Morocco's most prominent dishes, including the tagine and couscous, which they call sksou.  Berber versions of these dishes are, not surprisingly, typically hearty with vegetables (and flavored with a bit of lamb or beef. even turkey) and show little of the complex seasoning found in other, more urban places like Fez.

Berbers are also credited with two national comfort food. the smooth. tomato-based soup called barira and bessara, a puree of fava beans thinned into soup and spiced with cumin and paprika and served with olive oil, as well as strips of preserved meat called khlea.  They are also known for a number of interesting flatbreads, including a layered one called rghayif  that is eaten with honey.

The moussem, or saints' day celebration. often celebrated around a pilgrimage to a mausoleum. remains important.  These celebrations are firstly religious and secondly social and commercial, and involve days of music, dancing, and festivities, with the rather exuberant Berber character coming through.  In verdant areas abundant with flocks of grazing sheep, the centerpiece of the feast is often a whole spit-roasted lamb, or mechoui, surely one of the country's greatest culinary experiences.  Some of the more high-spirited moussems are in Tan Tan, famous for its camel and horse fantasia that gathers numerous nomadic Saharan tribes together, one based around the rose harvest in the Anti-Atlas town of El Kelaa des M'Gouna. and in Moulay Idriss in the hills above Meknes.  

Phoenicians. Romans. and the Early Invaders
Morocco has a number of Phoenician and Roman settlements.  Along the coast, ancient Punic colonies or city-states--namely Lixus (near modern-day Larache), Tingis (Tangier), Chellah (Rabat). Mogador (Essaouira)--brought advances in farming and agriculture techniques, and settlers planted olives, vines, and fruit orchards.  After the fall of Carthage (in modern-day Tunisia) in 146 BCE. Rome secured its influence in the region, established Roman North Africa, and ruled from the Nile to the Atlantic across the top of the continent.  In Morocco. Romans rebuilt the city of Volubilis (outside Meknes), expanded wheat and olive production and vineyards, and produced their beloved fermented fish paste called garum.  These foods helped feed the vast Roman Empire until its collapse at the end of the fifth century.  It's also likely that during their time in the area. Romans introduced cooking in clay vessels, which Berbers later adapted into tagines.

Arabs
After the death of the prophet Muhammad in 632 CE. Islam swept westward from the Arabian Peninsula through the Middle East and Egypt and into North Africa by the beginning of the eighth century.  Along with a new religion (and its dietary restrictions), a new language, a new model of government, and a sophisticated level of culture. the Arabs brought spices from the east--cinnamon. nutmeg, ginger, turmeric--and gradually introduced Persian and Arabic cooking influences.  These included cooking meats with sweet fruit. using a mixture of spices as well as aromatics, a fondness for using nuts in cooking, and a passion for delicate sweetmeats with almonds. honey, and sesame seeds.  Almost immediately, the Arabs established the great city of Fez, the heart of Morocco's Arabic--as opposed to Berber--culture.

The Muslim conquest continued on to the Iberian peninsula in 711 and in a decade had penetrated into France.  (Muslim rule gradually shrank southward over the next 750 years.)  Al-Andalus, as Muslim Spain and Portugal was known, was a sophisticated, cosmopolitan meeting place of the Orient and Occident where the art of cooking reached lofty heights.  The region would be interlinked with Morocco until the final collapse of Muslim rule on the Iberian peninsula at the end of the fifteenth century.

Imperial Morocco
Under a succession of imperial Berber dynasties, the region gradually moved from a patchwork of states into a unified entity with a sense of identity.  The Almoravid Empire (1062-1145) stretched at its peak north into Spain, east to Algiers. and far south into what is today Mauritania. Mali. and northern Senegal, some 2.000 miles from north to south.  Perhaps, though, its greatest accomplishment was founding Marrakech.  The Almohad Empire (1145-1248) showed Morocco at its most potent, controlling territory that reached north into Spain, south into Mauritania, and east all the way across modern-day Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya.  The Marinid Empire (1248-1465). though lacking the vast geographic range of its predecessors. managed to hold Morocco together for nearly two hundred years from its base in the great medieval city of Fez.  An Arab dynasty. for the first time, took control in the mid-sixteenth century.  The Saadians (1554-1659) traced their lineage back to the prophet Muhammad, as do their successors, the Alaouites (1665- ) who remain in power today.  Both began their consolidation of power in the south. at the fringes of the desert with access to the trans-Saharan trade routes.

This was also the age of the great Saharan caravans that traveled north from Mali, Ghana, and Senegal with gold, slaves, cloth, and spices, and carried salt in the other direction.  The peak of the trans-Saharan trade lasted from the eighth century until the end of the sixteenth century, with the collapse of the great Songhai Empire in West Africa and trade shifting more to the Atlantic.  (Railroads at the beginning of the twentieth century and Land Rovers essentially smothered out what remained.)  Goods carried on ancient caravans of long columns of laden camels passed through oasis towns like Sijilmasa (in the Tafilalt oasis, but today merely ruins) to Marrakech, Fez, and Meknes, to Tanger, and onto Mediterranean Europe, where the demand for gold coinage was nearly insatiable.  Those in Morocco called the area to the south Bilad al-Sudan, "the Land of the Blacks."  The name refers not to the modern-day country of Sudan, but to the geographic region stretching across North Africa from the Atlantic to the Nile, from the southern edge of the Sahara to the tropical equatorial region.  A handful of products retain the legacy of this African trade in their names, most prominently hot red pepper, felfla soudaniya, or often just called soudaniya.

Reconquista and (Re)Settling
Almost immediately after the eighth-century invasion of Spain began the long and steady Catholic reconquista, a gradual process that ended in 1492 with the fall of Granada.  When Spanish rulers expelled Muslims--after Granada's fall, and then with edicts over the next few centuries--many headed south to North Africa.  Historians figure that some 800000 Andalusians settled in Morocco, where they added new "Andalusian" neighborhoods to cities such as Fez, and built whole new cities such as Chefchaouen or Tetouan, which they rebuilt over ruins.  The refugees brought with them the Arabic-Berber (sometimes called Moorish) flavors that had been refined and heightened in Spain.  These can be tasted in, for instance, the blending of the sweet and savory (or even sour), certain spice mixes. and ways of preserving fruits.

Jews
Expelled from Spain along with Muslims, many Jews immigrated to Morocco.  Although their presence in Morocco dates to Roman North Africa in the early centuries of the Common Era, various large waves of these immigrants from Spain made the greatest impact.  Controlling much of the trade of Morocco's two great commodities--sugar and salt--they often lived in mellahs, Jewish residential quarters.  Mellah comes from the Arabic word for "salt."  Some historians think this name originated not with the role of Jewish immigrants as salt traders but with the salty stream running through Fez's Jewish quarter, or even with the community's onetime role in salting the heads of executed criminals to display on city walls. 

The Moroccoan Jewish community was once formidable.  A 1936 census counted 161,942 Jews in the country.  By 1948--the peak--the Jewish population is generally given as 265,000, with flourishing communities in Fez and Marrakech. in the coastal cities of Casablanca, Rabat, Essaouira, and Safi, and inland in Tiznit. where Jewish craftspeople were renowned for their silver jewelry.  That year. with the creation of Israel, the first exodus left the country.  Another wave departed in 1963, once the suspension on emigration (enacted with independence in 1956) was lifted, and more followed with the 1967 Arab-Israeli War.  Perhaps fewer than five thousand remain today, with most living in Casablanca.

Many traditional Jewish dishes were lost when the community left, such as dafina. a spicy-sweet stew traditionally cooked on the Sabbath with calves' foot and tongue. dumplings, and dates.  A handful of dishes have been integrated, however, and are not considered strictly Jewish today, including hargma, a popular stew of calves' feet and chickpeas.  Jewish influence can also be seen in ways of preserving foods and in some pastries.

European Influence
In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, the Portuguese punctuated the Atlantic coast with a number of fortified ports, including Tanger, Asilah, Anfa (now Casablanca), Azemmour, Mazagan (now El Jadida), Safi, Essaouira, and Agadir.  They sought direct trade from south of the Sahara for gold, and coastal outlets that would allow them to avoid the Genoese dominance of Mediterranean maritime trade.  They also wanted to tap into Morocco's rich lands of cereals and fish.

In 1830. France took control of neighboring Algiers from the Ottomans, who had ruled since 1520.  With the exception of the norhteastern border city of Oujda, Morocco was able to hold them at bay until the early twentieth century.  French occupation began in 1907 with Casablanca, and in 1912 the country was partitioned into two Protectorates governed individually by France and Spain, with Tanger designated an international zone.  France ruled the majority of the country from its new capital in Rabat.  The French built ports in Casablanca and Kenitra and new towns in Rabat, Fez, Meknes, Marrakech, and elsewhere, largely leaving the ancient medians untouched.  They introduced baguettes among flatbreads and morning croissants among rhayif; a slightly different version of cafe culture, with the terraces sprawled out on wide, ville nouvelle boulevards; and a wine industry.

Spain's early impact in Morocco came in the Mediterranean coastal enclaves of Melilla and Ceuta, which Spain held beginning in the fifteenth century.  Under the Protectorate. Spain ruled the Mediterranean north of the country, with Tetouan as its capital, until the 1956 independence.  For a large part of the twentieth century, Spain also controlled the deep south with the colony of the Sahara Occidental (Western Sahara. until 1976), the Tarfaya Strip to its north (until 1958), and the beach town of Sido Ifni (until 1969).

The lingering Spanish influence remains clearest in the north, where tomatoes and paprika are more widespread in the cooking than in the south. and where fish is frequently fried without a spicy marinade.  Today, many Moroccan immigrants to Spain come from the north.  When they return--to spend their holidays or to live--they bring with them a new layer of influence.

Independent Morocco
Morocco became independent in 1956 and has been led by a series of kings--Mohammed V. Hassan II, and, since 1999, Mohammed VI.

During the centuries of imperial rule. royal kitchens have ensured a high-level consciousness of the culinary arts.  In 1979, King Hassan II set up a royal cooking school on the grounds of the palace in Rabat.  It continues to run and each year accepts forty Moroccan girls under twenty-five years of age (many from the countryside) for the two-year program.  The girls are trained in the high art of classical Moroccan cooking by sheer repetition.

Morocco continues to assimilate influences in the kitchen while keeping its unique culinary identity.  A recent, important influence is a woman known as Choumicha.  One of the best-known personalities in the country, Choumicha has become something of a culinary media empire, with books, TV programs, and, for a time, a cooking magazine.  On TV. she prepares traditional recipes with elderly women around the country and also adapts Moroccan dishes for a modern, more time-pressed audience.  She has published a large, lovely cookbook, though it's her small, inexpensive booklets with recipes focusing on a single theme such as tagines or desserts that are hugely popular with Moroccans.

For many years. travelers heard that to eat well in Morocco, to eat authentic Moroccan cuisine, they had to dine in a private home, something that is difficult for the casual visitor.  But that has happily changed with the explosion of riads--a style of house that opens to a courtyard. and now refers to a small bed-and-breakfast, with just a couple of rooms, in the median.  A local cook or two prepare meals for a handful of clients, using ingredients bought in the neighborhood markets, and the meals are frequently served family style.  The experience feels like being a privileged guest in a private home.

And there is the surprising. and welcome. trend of very good, inexpensive eateries in gas stations along motorways and on the edges of towns.  At many Petromin, Baraka, Petrom, Afriquia, and Shell stations across the country, rows of tagines slow-cook on embers while freshly made flatbreads bake in traditional earthen ovens.  You can tell the best ones by the number of cars in the parking lot.

International supermarkets can be found on the outskirts of larger cities, with Marjane (considered the best), Carrefour, Acima, and a local chain called Aswak Assalam offering both local products and imported ones. usually from Europe.

The culinary mosaic continues.  To grow, sure, but also to be more accessible.

 


Sunday, November 3, 2013

Morocco -- Arts and Crafts


by Victoria Tang in Fodor's Guide to Morocco
 
Shopping in Morocco is an unforgettable experience.  In cities like Marrakesh and Fez, the souks are both magical and chaotic, their narrow alleyways overflowing with handcrafted products created using centuries-old techniques.

Open bazaars and medieval markets display the bright colors. bold patterns. and natural materials found throughout Morocco's arts and crafts tradition.  Items are proudly made in artisan workshops dating back to ancient times.

Handmade Moroccan arts and crafts demonstrate the influence of Berber, Arab, Andalusian, and European traditions.  Using natural resources like copper, wool, silver, wood, clay, and indigenous plants, artisans and their apprentices incorporate symbolic motifs, patterns, and color into wood carvings, textiles, ceramics, jewelry, slippers, clothing, and other decorative arts.  Traditional processes from the Middle Ages are still used in many cases and can be observed from start to finish.  Be prepared to negotiate a good price for anything you would like to buy:  bartering here is expected and considered an art form in itself. 

Visiting Morocco's souks also gives you the opportunity to view the techniques still used to mass-produce a wide assortment of authentic goods by hand.  While prices in Morocco may not be as cheap as they once were, hand-crafted goods can be found at any price point.  Even the highest-quality pieces are half of what you'd pay back home.


Pottery
Morocco's most stunning ceramics are the distinctive blue-and-white Fassi pieces.  Many of the pieces you'll find actually have the word Fas (the Arabic pronunciation of Fez) written in Arabic calligraphy and incorporated into geometric designs.  Fassi ceramics also come in a beautiful polychrome of teal, yellow, royal blue, and burgundy.  Another design unique to Fez is the simple mataysha (tomato flower) design.  You'll recognize it by the repetition of a small. four-petal flower design.  Fez is also at the forefront of experimental glazes--keep your eyes out for solid-color urns of iridescent chartreuse or airy lemon yellow that would look at home next to a modernist piece by Philippe Starck or Charles Eames. 

Safi

Safi's flourishing pottery industry dates to the 12th century.  Produced near the phosphate mines known as Jorf el Asfar (asfar. like safran. means yellow), because of the local yellow clay, the pottery of Safi has a distinctive mustard color.  The potters' elaborate designs and colors rival those of Fez but are in black with curving lines of leaves and flowers, with less emphasis on geometric patterns.  The pottery is predominantly overglazed with a greenish blue, though brown, green, and dark reds are also used.

Sale
In Sale, potters work on the clay banks of the River Bou Regreg estuary to produce glazed and unglazed wares in classic and contemporary styles, from huge garden urns to delicate dinner sets. 

Buying Tips
Look for kiln markings left after the ceramics have been fired.  Pottery fired en masses is put in the kiln on its side, so the edges of bowls are often painted after they have been fired.  The paint tends to flake off after a while, giving the bowls a more rustic, or antiqued, look.

Another technique for firing en masse is to stack the bowls one on top the other.  This allows for the glazing of the entire piece but results in three small marks on both the inside and outside of bowls from the stands on which they were placed.  Small touch-ups tend to disrupt the fluidity of the designs, but such blemishes can be used as a bargaining angle to bring down the price.

You can spot an individually fired piece by its lack of any interior faults.  Only three small marks can be seen on the underside of the serving dish or bowl, and the designed face should be immaculate.  These pieces. often large, intricately glazed serving pieces, are the most expensive that you'll find.


Rugs
Moroccan rugs vary tremendously in quality and design.  There are basically two types:  urban (citadin) and rural (Berber); each type has endless varieties of shapes, sizes, and patterns.  In general, smaller bazaars in the souks carry rural rugs, while larger bazaars and city stores carry a selection of both.


Urban rugs have been woven in Morocco since the 18th century.  They have higher knot counts (they're more "finely" woven) than rural rugs, which technically makes them of higher quality.  Urban rugs typically have seven colors and varied patterns including bands of different colors with geometric and floral designs.  They are woven by women in cooperatives. Rabat and Sale being the main centers, but also in Meknes. Fez. and Marrakesh.


Rural carpets. some of which are known as kilims (tapestry weave or flat weave) are identified first by region and then by tribe.  They are mostly woven by hand in the Middle Atlas (Azrou and Oulmes) and on the plains around Marrakesh (Chichaoua) by women.  They're dark red and made of high-quality wool and have bands of intricate geometric designs.  A single rug can take weeks or months to complete.  No two rugs are ever alike.

Buying Tips
  • Check the color.  If artificially aged, the back will be lighter than the front.  Natural dyes are very bright but usually uneven.  Artificial dyes can bleed when swiped with a damp cloth.
  • Check the weave's knot count.  Urban carpets should have a high knot count--about 100 per square inch.
  • The age of rugs.  Rugs don't have labels with identification, provenance, or origin date.  Rural rugs are rarely more than 50 years old.
  • Carpet prices.  Good-quality rugs are expensive.  Expect to pay 200-750 dirhams per square foot.  Flat-weave rugs are generally cheaper than pile rugs.  Cotton is much less expensive than wool.  It's worth taking the time to check comparable prices at one of the fixed-price state-run cooperatives.

Silver

The most popular silver jewelry in Morocco is crafted by Berbers and Arabs in the southern High Atlas and in the Anti-Atlas Mountains.  Taroudant and Tiznit are the most well-known jewelry-producing areas.  Desert nomads--Touaregs and Saharaouia--craft silver items for tribal celebrations.  Smaller items include fibulas (ornamental clasps to fasten clothing). Touareg "crosses," delicate filigree bracelets, and hands of Fatima (or khamsa, meaning five, for the five fingers) that are said to offer protection from the evil eye.  There's also a good variety of Moroccan Judaica that includes silver yads (Torah pointers). Torah crowns, and menorahs.  Silver teapots, serving trays, and decorative pieces capture the essence of Moroccan metalwork with geometric designs and ornate detail.

Leather

Moroccan leather, known as maroquinerie, has been sought after worldwide.  Fez and Marrakesh have extensive working tanneries, producing large quantities of items for export.  Sold inexpensively in local markets are bags, belts, luggage, jackets, vests, and beautifully embroidered goat skin ottomans.  Leather and suede babouches are the ultimate house slippers; myriad colors and styles are available, and they make an inexpensive gift.

Textiles
For centuries, weaving in Morocco has been an important artisanal tradition to create beauty and spiritual protection.  Looms operate in medina workshops. while groups of tribal nomads can be seen weaving by hand on worn carpets in smaller villages.  The best buys are multicolored silk-and-gold threat scarves, shawls, and runner, as well as hand-embroidered fabrics used for tablecloths, decorating, and traditional caftans and djellabas.

Wood
From the forests of the Rif and Middle Atlas. cedar wood is used to create beautiful mashrabiyya latticework often found on decorative household chests, doors, and tables.  Essaouira is the source of all thuya-wood crafts.  Here, only the gnarled burls that grow out of the rare coniferous tree's trunk are used to carve a vast variety of objects, from tiny boxes and picture frames to trays, games, and even furniture often decorated with marquetry in ebony and walnut.

Argan Oil
Much valued by the Berbers, argan oil has been used for centuries as an all-purpose salve, a healthy dip for homemade bread, protection for skin and nails, a treatment for scars and acne, a hair conditioner, a skin moisturizer, and even a general cure for aches and pains.  With its strong nutty and toasty flavor, argan oil is popularly sold in the food souks of Essaouira, Marrakesh, and Meknes in its purest form for culinary use.  The oil is often mixed with other essential oils for beauty and naturopathic treatments.

The origin of the oil is from the Argania spinosa, a thorny tree that has been growing wild in Morocco for some 25 million years.  Today. the tree only grows in the triangular belt along Morocco's Atlantic coast from Essaouira down to Tafraoute in the Anti-Atlas Mountains and eastward as far as Taroudant.  It takes about 35 kg (77 pounds) of sun-dried nuts to produce one liter of oil.  

The Art of Negotiation

Everywhere in Morocco you will haggle and be hustled by experienced vendors who pounce on you as soon as you blink in their direction.  Your best defense is the proper mindset.  For your first souk visit, browse rather than buy.  Wander the stalls and see what's for sale.  Don't enter stores or make eye contact with vendors, or you will certainly be pulled in.  You can also visit one of the state-sponsored artisan markets found in most large Moroccan cities, where prices are rather high but fixed.

Once you've found what you want to buy, ask the price (in dirhams).  Stick to the price you want to pay.  The vendor will claim you are his first customer and never look satisfied.  If he won't decrease the price far enough, walk away.  Chances are the vendor will run after you, either accepting your best offer or making a reduction.


Currency Exchange

1 dirham = 12 cents (US)       $1 = 8.27 dirhams


Saturday, November 2, 2013

Morocco -- The Moroccan Pantry


Typical ingredients used for Moroccan cuisine:

Almonds - used in most meals for crunchiness scattered on the top of a dish.  Toasting or frying almonds deepens their taste and gives them their crunch.

Argan oil - is a rich nutty, dark golden oil and one of the country's most prized and most expensive food products.  The limited and labor-intensive production is done today almost exclusively in women's co-ops.

Couscous - refers to the dish and the tiny "grains" formed from hard durum wheat or sometimes corn.  Couscous comes in various types and sizes.

Dates - are a staple as well as a  symbol.   They are traditionally offered to guests with a glass of milk and are the first item eaten with the breaking of the fast during Ramadan.

Dried figs - are either pale yellow, flattened and stacked or strung together or they are fatter and pear-shaped.

Dried apricots - contribute an appealing tartness. brilliant color, chewy texture to tangines, and are often coupled with prunes.

Honey - used to caramelize onions and fruits for tagines, found in desserts and sweets, eaten for breakfast with flatbreads, or drizzled over yogurt.  It's also a base for many traditional medicines and ancient therapeutics externally and internally.  Honey has a symbolic role at weddings. births, and during mourning when it's served for three days following a death.

Khlea - dried. seasoned (salt, garlic, cumin, sweet paprika, crushed coriander seeds) strips of beef (sun-dried. boiled) are an ancient way of preserving meat.  

Lben - buttermilk from cows, sheep, goats, camel

Olive oil - accounts for 16% of oils used.  There are 16,000 traditional oil mills.

Olives - go back to the first millennium BCE when Phoenicians introduced the olive tree and Romans expanded cultivation.  Moroccan groves produce table olives and olives for oil.  

Preserved lemons - a trademark of Moroccan cuisine, they are a unique ingredient whose tight, tart flavor adds a pungent boost to dishes from salads to baked fish and chicken tagines.

Prunes - dark, shriveled, and sticky dried plums.

Raisins - sweet. dried grapes are integral to many sweet-and-savory combinations with dark or golden raisins in countless dishes from vegetable couscouses to desserts.

Semolina - ground hard durum wheat that is fine or coarse and used for couscous.

Smen - clarified and preserved salted butter with a distinctive earthy or cheesy flavor and aroma to a number of traditional dishes.

Vermicelli - short. thin noodles added to soups and even steamed in
a couscoussier, sweetened, and eaten on their own or as a side dish.

Walnuts - commonly found in desserts.  The wood of the walnut tree is used to make fine wide. shallow platters (gsaa), used for preparing couscous and dough. 

Warqa (or Ouarka) - fine, paper-thin pastry sheets used for savory stuffed pastries and layered desserts.  They are made by smearing a fine coating of damp. sticky, elastic dough across a wide, hot griddle before peeling it off after 15 seconds.  Phyllo dough and Chinese spring roll wrappers are slightly thicker and a substitute.

Aromatic Herbs:

Absinthe
Basil
Bay leaf
Cilantro
Fennel
Garlic
Lavender
Lemon verbena
Marjoram
Mint (peppermint and spearmint)
Oregano
Parsley
Sage
Thyme
Zaatar (thyme and oregano family)

Spices:

Aniseed
Black pepper
Caraway
Cardamon
Cayenne pepper
Chaste tree berries
Chili powder
Cinnamon
Clove
Coriander seeds
Cubeb pepper (resembles black peppercorn)
Cumin
Fennel seeds
Fenugreek
Galanga root
Ginger
Grains of paradise (cousin of cardamom. ginger. artichoke)
Gum arabic or gum acacia
Juniper berries
Licorice
Long pepper
Mace
Mastic
Nigella seeds
Nutmeg
Orris root
Pepper
Rosebuds
Saffron
Sesame seeds
Sweet paprika
Turmeric
White pepper

Spice Blends
Harissa - spicy chili paste
Msakhen - used as a spice aphrodisiac and aid to conception
Ras el hanout - 20-50 spices 

Aromatics
Orange flower water
Rose water