Feast of the Assumption of Mary

Attendants carry a statue of the Black Madonna, who was honored in Le Puy
on the Feast of the Assumption of Mary--August 15

Today was a holiday in France--the celebration of the Feast of the Assumption of Mary, which commemorates the belief that when Mary, the mother of Jesus Christ, died, her body was not subjected to the usual process of physical decay but was “assumed” into heaven by angels and reunited there with her soul.

The Assumption of Mary is a holy day of obligation for Catholics throughout the world, which means that people generally go to Mass. In the United States, that's mostly all that the day means. In Europe and South America, the people have processions like the one we experienced today in Le Puy. 


In France, businesses closed their doors today in honor of Mary and churches held special Masses, celebrations, processions, concerts and other events. People lit candles and parishes dressed up their altars.

Déjeuner at the International Centre in Le Puy

(left to right) Sr. Lilly from India, Sr. Rose Marie from Mexico
and Sr. Catherine (Mother Superior) from France.
(Not pictured is Sr. Line from the USA.)

The top three leaders from the Congregation of Lyon came to Le Puy to celebrate the Assumption, which started out with 11 a.m. Mass followed by  dejeuner (our main meal of the day) at the Centre International. 

Eluiza (left) cut the melons and setup the meal while Line (below) made chicken and zucchini. I made potato salad the night before. Our aperitif was cantaloupe with port wine. After the main meal we had a cheese plate and a dessert of creamy, fruity delicious-ness.

Our meal lasted almost two hours. Then we walked into town to attend the 3 o'clock procession that recognized and honored the Feast of the Assumption of Mary.

The Procession
I had never attended a religious procession in Europe and so I was very interested to see what it was like. I expected a parade that we would watch. Instead we were a part of a long and crowded procession that snaked through the cobblestone streets of Le Puy and ended up at the Cathedral, which is located on a hill above the city. 

The procession started out with a group of men carrying a statue of the Cathedral's Black Madonna. (The face of Mary and Jesus are made of a black stone.)

Here is a longer view of the men carrying the statue.

Groups of priests dressed in their liturgical robes followed behind the statue. 

Thousands of people took part in the procession, which included pilgrims, tourists and the local people. 

Weeks before, the town hung blue and white streamers on the procession route, the colors of the Blessed Mother, as decorations for the special day.

Loud speakers had been set up along the procession route so that everyone could hear and join in the various religious songs that were sung a cappella. At the end of each song set, priests led a decade of the rosary. 

People of all ages walked on through the streets singing, praying, and reflecting on the mysteries of the Blessed Mother.












Many onlookers watched the procession from their apartments or from the street.

Some people sat in sidewalk cafés to watch the procession--what seemed to me to be a very French thing to do!

TV cameras were also on the scene and a  France TV 3 crew stopped me for a short interview about where I was from and why I was there. 

"This is a special holiday for the Church," I said. "I have never been to a procession before, and I wanted to experience it." (Eluiza watched and waited for me to get through the interview so that we could re-join the other sisters in the procession. Unfortunately, she didn't get a photo of my first big moment in the French media.)

After the procession that had circled the city, participants made their way up the hill to the Cathedral to hear the Bishop address them with a message of peace and unity in our world today.

Le Puy has long been an attraction for spiritual pilgrims. This particular feast day has been celebrated since the fifth century--the time of the Romans! We were participating in an ancient tradition!

One of the most interesting impressions I had of this day was the silence and reverence of the crowds as a display of faith and prayer. The Blessed Mother represents a call to unity and peace, which we surely need these days more than ever.



Security
Security was plentiful. Given the incidents of the past few years in France, Le Puy was not taking any chances. I was grateful these efforts were made, but considered for a moment what it would be like if there were a terrorist attack among the crowds. Fortunately, there were no incidents.

Gendarmes walked with the procession. They also held stationary positions in various places along the route.

Buses were used to block intersections that led into the old town so that no vehicles could enter.

Heavy equipment and barriers were also used to block traffic.

Red Cross workers (in orange) were on hand to attend to medical emergencies.

Today was a great day.  And yet, it still puzzles me how France has separated religion and the state but that many Church holidays are celebrated. "It's a Catholic country," I'm told. While I'm here, I'll continue to study and learn about what seems to me to be an odd relationship--even though it apparently works for the French.

Goofs and Gaffes with French

As a new speaker of French I am, of course, making lots of mistakes. 

Grammar mistakes are one thing. They are important but not as critical as pronunciation or use of the wrong word because they can cause confusion or offense when you don't intend it. 

Below are some examples of my goofs and gaffes in French over the past month. I'm sure this will be a regular blog post.


brie -- bruit  
One of our neighbors was getting his hedge trimmed in the morning and the noise had gone on for 3.5 hours. I commented: "Il y avait beaucoup de brie (bree) dans ce matin." 

Because I mispronounced the word for noise, which is bruit 
(bru-ee), I had said instead "there was a lot of brie cheese in the morning."

diarrhea -- la diarrhée

I was noting that the emergency sirens in France were scary to me because I associated them with the last scene in the play, The Diary of Anne Frank, where the Nazis discover the family and break down the door. The sirens were blasting in the background. 

The diary of Anne Frank came out as The Diarrhea of Anne Frank. So sorry!


Putin -- putain

Of course I would get this one wrong without realizing it. Swear words are so embedded in a language that you are bound to say them even when you aren't looking for them. I was talking about Vladamir Putin and took a stab at pronouncing his name in French (pu-tan). Say what?!? I had just called the president of Russia a whore. Well, that's not really that far off for the richest man in the world who gained his wealth by bilking his countrymen bit by bit; he is now worth around $200 billion. I should have pronounced his name as pu-teen.  

Note: the French spell Putin's name Putine so they can avoid the very mistake I made.


tiroir -- terroir -- terreur
These three words are very close in pronunciation and it is important to get them right.

Tiroir (tear-woirr) is a drawer.

Terroir (tare-whirr) has to do with the place where things grow (see diagram). It is the way wine growers know where the wine comes from. 

Terreur (tare-urr) is the aim of terrorists against the people.



Dents -- dentelles

On a daily basis we all brush our teeth (brosser les dents). So in this town where they have made lace (dentelles) for hundreds of years, you have to be careful that you distinguish between "brushing your teeth" and "brushing your lace."

Droit -- droite

Eluiza is teaching me how to navigate the road--in French. This can sometimes be a problem because of little things like understanding which way to turn. For example, droit (pronounced drw) means straight ahead while droite (pronounced drwhat with emphasized T) means turn right. These two important words are not always easy for me to distinguish, especially in the heat of the moment like an approaching intersection of three possible options or a round-about with cars behind me breathing down my neck. After a week of struggling with these pronunciations, we resolved this mix-up with her saying "straight"for straight, droite for right and gauche (pronounced GOsh) for left.


Passage -- juste regarde

One day at the Super U grocery store Eluiza and I were looking at the meat. The young butcher came up to us and asked if he could help. I said, "nous regardons" which means "we are looking." He immediately switched the subject and asked: "passage?" which means that he recognized my foreign accent and wanted to know if I was traveling through Le Puy. I recognized that and explained that I lived and worked in town. He asked me what country I was from and I told him I was from America. Then there was some confusion--on his part, according to Eluiza--about what he understood I said. This confusion led to my own when I later thought that "passage" meant the expression "just looking." It sounded plausible. Things can get mighty confusing when it comes to language!!


Cuisine -- Aliments

False friends are words that we use in English that may have a French origin but which don't have the same meaning. I often use the word cuisine to mean food when I should use the word aliments. Cuisine in French means kitchen. So a translated sentence goes something like this:  "I will go shopping today for the kitchen."

Cuisiner is the infinitive of "to cook."

Truth be told, the French don't use the word, food, the way Americans do. They prefer to use repas when they refer to a meal or to call vegetables and meats by their names. This is another example of a false friend.

Then they use the word, nourriture (as in nourishment) to refer to food that they have cooked or will cook. It is distinguished from aliment, which is the food they buy at the grocery store. Mon Dieu!


Sel, Salé, Sale

Here's a tough one to get straight--especially when it comes to pronunciation.
Sel (pronounced "sell") is salt.
Salé (pronounced "sal-A") is salted or salty.
Sale (pronounced "sall") is dirty.
Salle (pronounced "salll") is hall. 




So, here's are some sentences using the first three:

Le sel est sale et salé.  
Le sel salé est sale.
Le sel sale est salé.

Sunday Afternoon in August

There was a break in our 100-degree weather today, so we had a leisurely--and spontaneous--afternoon of fun, food, nature, and exercise (turned out to be 10,000 steps). 

At dejeuner (our main meal at 1 p.m.) we had hamburgers, a packet of grilled vegetables (potatoes, red peppers, onions), Greek salad and ice cream, which we ate on the patio in front of our house.

Line at the BBQ

Anita, Eluiza and Line at table

It was such a nice day that a drive in the countryside seemed like a good idea. We went to Lac Bouchet, about 30 minutes from Le Puy. I drove and not only practiced my driving skills but learned of another get-away place in Nature. Here is the amazing countryside in a land that once hosted volcanoes in Auvergne, a region in central France. The cone-like hills were once volcanoes.



Lac Bouchet (lac = lake) is a crater lake that filled in with water in what was once a volcano. The lake is almost perfectly round and the water is as clear and clean as can be.

The area is heavily forested all around the lake. 









The 3 km pathway around the lake is comprised of reddish gravel. It is the iron left over from the lava of ancient volcanic eruptions. 






Of course, the lake attracts swimmers (even though there is no sand). It also hosts paddle boaters and hikers of all ages.

The long range lens on my new camera, didn't know what it was recording in this shot.  Oh well, this is France!




A restaurant provides visitors with a full meal, a beverage or a dessert. There is also a hotel here, which charges only 50 euros per couple. That's a good deal!

The sisters had ice cream while I had my first cappuccino in France. 

Here's a wooden walkway near the restaurant, but we took the high road--literally--back to the car.

It was a great day!!

Driving in French

Driving in France is like learning a new language. There's a certain logic to it, and it works for the population. However, until you know what you're doing, you don't know what you're doing. 

Driving in France is also like going to the moon. There are countless intricacies to pay attention to so that the mission can be successful. It takes skillful driving acumen and confidence, of which I'm gaining every time I take the car out. 

Last year I drove in the French countryside and it was delightfully beautiful. The green mountains and foothills of central and southwest France were breathtaking. However, the cities were always a trial because I didn't understand the road signs and markings. This year, as a full-time resident in LePuy, it is essential for me to learn the rules of the road.

Eluiza is teaching me how to navigate the road--in French. This can sometimes be a problem because of little things like understanding which way to turn. For example, droit (pronounced drw) means straight ahead while droite (pronounced drwhat with emphasized T) means turn right. These two important words are not always easy for me to distinguish, especially in the heat of the moment like an approaching intersection of three possible options or a round-about with cars behind me breathing down my neck. After a week of struggling with these pronunciations, we resolved this mix-up with her saying "straight"for straight, droite for right and gauche (pronounced GOsh) for left.


It is also important to understand that certain intersections have roadways with a "priority for passage," as illustrated with these signs. Certain blind corners give drivers a chance to get out onto the road. I haven't mastered this sign yet. It would help me tremendously to begin by first seeing the signs. 







Another priority space is the checkered road, which was hard for me to find at first. It means that when you approach an intersection and cars are lined up at a red light (feu rouge), you need to leave space in the white checkered area so that cars trying to poke into traffic have the right of way to get out of their side road.


Then there are the round-abouts, which the French seem to love. They are everywhere. The most famous one is around the Arc of Triumph in Paris (see video below).

Fortunately, the round-abouts in LePuy are not this bad, but they are scary devils until you know how to do them--and trust that the other drivers around you do, too.  

Getting into the round-about means that you must yield to drivers who are already in it. When the coast is clear, you step on it to get yourself into the circle. Then drive around it until you need to get off on your road. Don't forget your turn signal (clignotant) so the other cars know you are exiting the round-about. 

The trick to the round-about is to realize that once you are in it, you have the right of way to turn off of it. The cars outside the round-about must yield to you.


French roads are hundreds of years old and they were built before there were cars. Many city streets are narrow and winding. Turns are abrupt and not always square. Some, in fact, are very rounded and present a blind corner. One way streets don't help and may hinder getting back (or remembering) to the intended direction. A good memory helps, but if you are in an area for the first time, pray to St. Christopher, the saint of travel, to get you through it all. (He was retired in the 60s, but he has certainly been watching over me in France.)

St. Christopher

And while I'm on the subject of prayer, driving in France has allowed me the opportunity to pray more: before, during and after a ride. It has gotten me through several close calls.  For example, one roadway was so narrow, I thought it was a one-way. Nope, it was a two-way and I almost got nailed.

Another time when we were parked near the bank/post office, I asked Eluiza if once we started again if we should turn left or right. She said we'd be going left. I took her at her word and once the car started, I went straight out of the parking lot and over the slight curb. "No, no, no!" she said excitedly, "we need to back out of the parking lot and go around." However, I was already halfway into the road, so she used her usual response: "vas-y, vas-y, vas-y" which means keep going. Fortunately, there were no police around to give me a ticket or cars to nail me (I did carefully check on-coming traffic.)

There's another rule about parking that rankles me a bit: you're not supposed to drive forward if the space in front of you is empty. That's probably because someone from the other side might try to swoop into the space. Instead, back out of your space.

The first time I went forward through an empty space Eluiza nearly had a heart attack! Actually, she is very calm and collected, and she has been a fantastic driver's education teacher. One day, I asked her if she was comfortable with my driving. "Oh yes," she said--as she sat on the edge of her seat and dug her fingernails deep into the glove compartment. 

Nevertheless, after two weeks of driving, I'm feeling more comfortable at the wheel and Eluiza has complimented me on my confidence. She said I was "doué," which means gifted. In many cases I was just plain "chanceux" (lucky).





Of course, there are pedestrian crossings, which cars are obliged to stop for when pedestrians (piétons) are crossing. These are always marked at a traffic light, but sometimes they are just in the middle of a long street. Drivers are obliged to stop, however, sometimes they don't. So if you are a pedestrian, beware! And if you are a driver, for God's sake, don't kill someone.





Another important right-of-way is the bicycle marker. These can be seen on streets and on walkways. Drivers must yield to cyclists, especially when making a right turn. You don't want to cut off a cyclist because he can get hurt. To get back at you he will smash his hand on the side of your car and you'll hear a big thump. The first time you don't know what it is. After that you realize the potential consequences. Cyclists gave me a thump twice in Lyon last year, which is pretty good because Lyon has to be the worst city in the world to drive, well, maybe Paris, too, if you are brave enough to give that a try.

Sidewalks are more dangerous to you if you are a pedestrians because you can get hurt. Note that cyclists also tend to go fast and you have to watch for them very carefully.








Traffic lights are not always overhead, they are more often on the side of the road, so it's important to faites attention (be alert) to them.








Speed limits are indicated with red and white circles, which I find more colorful and friendly than American speed limit signs. Going through the city is usually 50 km (31 mph). A little further out is 70 km (44 mph), and in the countryside you can go 90-100 km (56-62 mph). Although I have a lead foot in the USA, I tend to go under the speed limit in France because the roads are so narrow, and I'm still not sure of how the car will respond. American roads tend to have wide spaces, even in the city, so it takes a different perspective to drive in France.

"Rappel" means "remember," which is diplomatic language for "don't you dare go over the speed limit, you link-head." If you do, you could get a ticket. On some roads the French police have installed speed radar that records your license plate and sends you a ticket, so taking these speed limits seriously is a "bon idée" (good idea). 

Paying attention to speed limits is important because they are not always marked. You assume whatever speed to take based on the last sign you've seen. Sooo, maybe that's the reason they tell you to "rappel."








The French also use speed bumps (sleeping police) to slow down traffic. You only have to roll over one of these the first time to remember to look for them and slow down the next time: your car goes flying, which is what happened to me. Speed bump are indicated with a sign (see right), which tends to be more obscure than the arrows (below) that let you know you are about to go over a bump. "Faites attention

Construction, like in America, is ever-present and veering around it along with cars and bicyclists racing down the road, car doors opening in front of you and pedestrians trying to cross is a challenge. While there aren't signs posted indicating that you will serve jail time and pay a $10,000 fine for hitting a road worker, you really don't want to hit a worker just out of your humanity. Once again, the narrow roads make maneuvering a challenge. This photo illustrates what it seems like to me to drive French city roads.

And, oh, I almost forgot, watch out for motorcyclists who like to ride on the lane lines in between the cars. They show no fear and seem quite adept at driving. They are, nonetheless, one more hazard on the road. 

This sign amuses me. It indicates when you have  just left a city. When you enter the city, the red marker is not there. 

Cities around LePuy are stacked up next to each other without much space in between them. So, I guess, this helps drivers know where they are. The only other place I've experienced this chain of cities phenomenon is in the Boston area.  



I haven't seen this sign yet, but I like it. It says: "crossing without barriers or half-barriers." Should be interesting to find out what that means.

Learning to drive French roads is like learning a new language. I contend that once I master French driving, I will master an understanding of the French mentality.  "Ho-ho-ho," said Sister Simone in her best British English. "The majority of French people do not drive."  Zut alors!! (which means holy s!@#$%^&*).

Here is a website that provides a test of French street signs.


Here is a blog called "Americans in France" that teaches visitors about French roads and their signage--and a lot of other things.