Général Marquis de Lafayette Chateau in Chavaniac

Two flags fly at the Chateau La Fayette: the French flag and the American flag. They fly for Gilbert La Fayette, who was known as "the Hero of the Two Worlds," for his accomplishments in both the service of France and the United States.

Gilbert du Motier de La Fayette was born in the chateau in Chavaniac  (18.6 miles from Le Puy) in this bed on September 6, 1757.  He had a happy childhood and showed gallantry and leadership befitting his family heritage even at a young age. For example, in the Auvergne area, the Beast of Gevaudan (a wolf) was terrorizing the people. Gilbert, age 10, took a small sword and vowed to kill the beast. "Be careful!" he said. "I am the lord of this village and it is my duty to defend it." 
(George Washington's portrait on the right.) 

In fact, Lafayette (American spelling) was from one of the oldest and most distinguished aristocratic families in France. Gilbert de La Fayette III was a companion-at-arms with Joan of Arc's army during the Siege of Orléans in 1429. According to legend, another elder helped capture the Crown of Thorns during the Sixth Crusade to Jerusalem. On his mother's side, several of his family members also had distinguished careers in the military.

 Lafayette was raised in the chateau by his grandmother after his father had died while fighting a British-led coalition at the Battle of Minden in Westphalia. His grief-struck mother went to Paris to live with her father and grandfather. In 1768 when Lafayette was 11, he went to Paris to attend the Collège du Plessis, which was a part of the University of Paris. He enrolled in military training as a Muskateer.

 

At age 13 he was commissioned an officer and in 1777 at age 19 went to America to fight with the revolutionaries against the British. On August 5, 1777, he met George Washington, commander-in-chief of the Continental Army, in Philadelphia at a dinner. According to historian and journalist Marc Leepson, "the two men bonded almost immediately." Lafayette was in awe of Washington and Washington was impressed by Lafayette's enthusiasm, especially since they were both Masons. As a result, Washington became his friend and mentor. Archivists at the chateau have recognized that relationship by hanging a picture of Washington in Lafayette's birthplace bedroom.

Lafayette commanded troops in several battles and was wounded during the Battle of Brandywine in 1777. In the middle of the war he returned to France to solicit French support for what he considered "a noble cause". Upon his return to America in 1780, he served as a senior officer in the Continental Army. Most notable was his command of forces in Virginia that blocked the British and led to the Siege of Yorktown in 1781, which would decisively end the war. 

Lt General in 1791; portrait by Joseph-Désiré Court

After the war Lafayette returned to France. He was appointed to the Assembly of Notables in 1787, and in 1789 he was elected to the Estates General. In that same year he helped form the National Constituent Assembly (the forerunner to the National Assembly) and helped write the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen with the assistance of Thomas Jefferson. The Declaration was inspired by the U.S. Declaration of Independence and it invoked natural law to establish basic principles of the democratic nation-state. After the storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, Lafayette was appointed commander-in-chief of the French National Guard. As an aristocrat and a supporter of the monarchy, he tried to steer a middle course during the Revolution. However, in August 1792, he was arrested by the revolutionaries. He fled into the Austrian Netherlands but was captured by Austrian troops. He spent five years in prison.

Lafayette returned to France in 1797 after Napoleon Bonaparte secured his release. He was offered a position in this government but refused it. In 1814, he became a liberal member of the Chamber of Deputies, a position he held for most of the rest of his life. In 1824, President James Monroe invited him to the United States as the nation's guest, and he visited all 24 states. During France's July Revolution of 1830, he was offered the opportunity to become France's dictator, but he refused. Instead, he supported Louis-Philippe as king, but turned against him when the monarch became autocratic. Lafayette died on May 20, 1834 and is buried in Picpus Cemetery in Paris, under soil from Bunker Hill (Charlestown, MA). 

Although frequently absent from his home in Chavaniac, he maintained connections to it throughout his life. He was particularly interested in the town's small farmers and artisans. He also showed his own creativity by suggesting that ships use hemp from the Auvergne region for their ropes and that vaccination could help prevent smallpox.  

Below are several of the rooms of the chateau that help to illustrate the nature of the man and his times. 

The Philosophers' Salon exemplifies the 18th century's golden age of conversation and discussion of pertinent philosophical and literary issues and Lafayette was an avid participant. His main concern was the abolition of slavery. He was a man of strong opinions and his early successes had a negative effect on some people:

"My popularity is great in this kingdom and in this city, but there are many who are against me, jealous of my reputation." 1784

Mme. de La Fayette's Salon is one of the more picturesque rooms of the chateau. Also known as the "Green Room," the salon served as a receiving room for guests. The furniture is from the Louis XVI period. 

Wallpaper panels are in the arabesque style (surface decorations based on rhythmic linear patterns of scrolling and interlacing foliage, tendrils" or plain lines). Wallpaper was introduced in France in the 1770s. They imitated the painter, Raphael, who focused on antiquity motifs. The fashion of the day also included flowers, birds, insects, people and mythical animals.


 




The "Versailles" parquet floor of the 18th Century was made of oak, ash, sycamore, and walnut.

The Treasure Room (a.k.a. "Chinese Room") served as Lafayette's office. It contains various objects that once belonged to Lafayette. It is also displays several murals in silver leaf that use a Chinese-inspired style unique to the era of Louis XV.



Dining Room
 

Interesting Doors and Hallways

Interesting Objects

Salt mills were popularly used in France. The salt came in chunks and needed to be ground to season food. In order to raise money, the government taxed salt, which was considered a valuable and precious commodity.

Masons poster

Lafayette belonged to the Masons, thanks to Fr. Reynal, a scholarly, anti-establishment man whom he admired. Reynal belonged to the "Nine Sisters" Lodge in Paris, which influenced literary circles there. Lafayette attended its meetings. His membership facilitated his relationship with George Washington, who was a grand master. Freemasonry or Masonry consists of fraternal organisations that trace their origins to the local fraternities of stonemasons that from the end of the 14th century regulated the qualifications of stonemasons and their interaction with authorities and clients. 

 

 

 

This commemorative quilt celebrated the 250th year of Lafayette's birth in 2007. It was presented to the public on July 22, 2011. It hangs in the reception area of the chateau.

 

  

 

 

The Gardens


The gardens behind the chateau were extensive, but unremarkable. Still, there were many interesting trees and ponds that lent to a tranquil and peaceful environment. A rose garden near the chateau was designed in triangles around a boy on a pedestal, which made for some interesting photographic angles.

Lafayette married Adrienne de Noailles at age 16. It was an arranged marriage, but even from the first days, Adrienne, 14, held a lively and tender sentiment for her husband who was also her hero. Often left alone, she managed the couple's property and businesses on both sides of the family. Adrienne also watched over the political and private interests of Lafayette while facing with courage and determination the very difficult hours of the French Revolution. She and her two daughters were imprisoned during the Revolution, but they all eventually joined Lafayette in his prison in Austria. She was weakened and sick as a result of her captivity and died at age 48 in 1807. She was buried in the Picpus cemetery in Paris in her family's communal grave. Lafayette died on May 20, 1834 at age 77 and was buried with his wife.

 

 

The European oak dominates Chaliergue's forest landscapes and the surrounding areas of Chavaniac. Its wood, rich in tannins, is used in the manufacturing of barrels; it gives wine a subtle flavor of toasted almonds and caramel.

The bald cypress produces pneumatophores at its base. These protrusions allow the tree to supply oxygen to its roots and improve its stability.

Langeac and Environs

 

It was just a drive through the countryside that led us to Langeac and the area surrounding it one fine day in June. The French countryside is so beautiful, just a drive through it brings much pleasure and satisfaction. We came upon wheat fields, the Allier River, a goat farm, a former Benedictine priory, and an old windmill. 

                     Langeac is just 40 minutes west of Le Puy.

 

Allier River

The Allier River flows  262 miles through central France from its source in the Massif Central just east of the city of Mende. It is a left tributary of the Loire flowing north and joining the Loire west of the city of Nevers.

The 16th and 17th centuries were very prosperous times for Langeac, a small market town full of artisans. Following the Napoleonic wars (1803-15), artisans and merchants also benefited. However, exploitation of wood, stone quarries, coal mines, antimony, lead, and silver led to several devastating river floods. In the 1860s the railroads superceded river transport and the floods subsided. Townsmen then learned how to repair and maintain locomotives. 

 

 

Today, the town regards the Allier River as a place of beauty and respite. It has built a riverfront walkway and park to take advantage of this picturesque view.

Even the simple wheat fields of Langeac are beautiful as they are framed by a gorgeous landscape surrounded by mountains. Eluiza found some yellow flowers on the edge of the wheat field that she couldn't resist picking. The video below captures the waves of grain. 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We returned to this area in October and discovered the small town of Lavoûte-Chilhac. just 8 miles northwest of  Langeac. Before we arrived there, we spotted a sheep farm where the herd was munching on grass. I clapped my hands and they all moved toward our car. It was quite a sight to see a swarm of sheep all moving together toward us. Unfortunately, I didn't take a video camera to record them, but did manage to take a photo of them near the fence. 

 

 

 

Lavoûte-Chilhac

Lavoûte-Chilhac goes back to ancient times, but on September 14, 1025, Odilon de Cluny, then 5th Abbot of Cluny, founded the priory of Sainte Croix The Volte. The fashion for priories at the time was an emphasis on modesty and austerity. In 1406, the priory was much run down so restoration in mid-century replaced the early Romanesque church. Between 1778-90 a new wing was being constructed to make a horseshoe shape of the priory, however, that work was cut short by the French Revolution. The monks soon afterward abandoned the priory.

 

Lavoûte-Chilhac is actually made up of two neighborhoods separated by the Alliers River and connected by an old stone bridge. On the left bank are a series of riverside houses with high façades to guard against flooding (see photo above). On the right bank is the old Cluniac priory (see below). Behind this large structure is Sainte-Croix Church noted with the bell tower that is made from volcanic lava rock.

The priory complex has some interesting features. The front entrance is a horseshoe shape with a tunnel that leads to the church. 

 

 

 

 

The rose window on the facade is divided into 12 ray lobes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This 12th century Romanesque polychrome crucifix depicts Jesus' eyes open. Before the 13th century, artists were reluctant to represent a suffering Christ. 

 

 

 The altarpiece was installed in 1713.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The choir stalls that wrap around the wall behind the altar are made of walnut and hand-carved.

The Signs of the Times

As we cruised around the village, we noticed a small sign on the left bank that pointed to an historic windmill. After a long winding drive outside the village and into the countryside, we found it, albeit with a more familiar design. In the distance were modern windmills that generate power from the wind. This region of France is full of them thanks to the mighty winds of the Massif Central! The old windmills were used only to grind grain.

Besides its historical heritage, Lavoûte-Chilhac today is a popular place for outdoor activities like canoeing, fishing and hunting. Due to the coronavirus, it was rather quiet except for a group of people playing pétanque, a popular game similar to bocci ball in Italy.