Summer 2022 Road Trips

    

 

It's summertime in Le Puy and Eluiza and I took some vacation time from the Centre with several day trips around the Auvergne area. Here are some short clips of our activities that not only created some fabulous memories but provided us with some great summer fun.

 

Lavoûte-Chilhac

Eluiza was looking for a few wheat stalks to put in our chapel and flower vases around the Centre. Unfortunately, farmers had already cut most of the wheat so the few stalks that we wanted were hard to find.

We nevertheless continued our afternoon drive to Lavoûte-Chilhac, which was a priory town back in 1025. It runs along the Allier River, which provides some very picturesque scenes. This area is a recreation area during the summer, and kayaks were there out for hire. This picture was taken from a small café that overlooks the river where we had a delicious crêpe and coffee break. So although our mission in finding wheat stalks was dashed, the afternoon was pleasant and enjoyable.   

 

 For more about Lavoûte-Chilhac and its abbey, see my 2020 blog post and scroll down halfway. 

 

                                                                   

 

Saint-Etienne-du-Lugdarès -- Institute Sisters of St. Joseph

We received a call from Sister Marie that she and the other sisters were moving out of their house and unloading their household things. Naturally, we were interested. These treasures included some dishes, glasses, bread baskets, books, and a few other odd things of which we were very grateful. Sister Marie is a member of the Institute of St. Joseph.

Behind Sister Marie and Eluiza is the sisters' former motherhouse, which they left in 2008 after being a presence in the community since 1833. They sold it to the city, and it was converted it to government offices and public services. The plaque on the front of the building reads: "In homage and gratefulness to the Congregation of the Sisters of St. Joseph for the numerous services given to the people."  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Across the street from the former motherhouse was the birthplace of a famous French writer and adventurer, Henri Charriere (1906-73). He was sentenced to prison in 1931 for murder and pardoned in 1970. He wrote the novel Papillon, a memoir of his incarceration and escape from a penal colony in French Guiana. Charrière denied committing the murder but freely admitted to various other petty crimes in his younger days.

 

 The main street of St. Étienne is a pilgrimage route as well as a favored roadway for motorcycles. The quiet rural area is frequently disturbed by loud, freedom-loving motorists, said Sister Marie.

The church in the town had some interesting things to see. The pulpit was an elaborate white marble structure with beautiful carvings of the Evangelists.

 

 

    The church features a medieval crucifix.                        

 

 

 

 

 

 

                  

Every French church posts the names of the fallen in World War I, II, Algeria, and Vietnam. This was the first time I'd seen photos of the men memorialized.  

 

 

 

 

 

Notre Dame des Neiges

High in the Cervennes Mountains lies the remote Cistercian monastery of Notre Dame des Neiges. It was the home of the now-canonized Charles de Foucauld (1858-1916), a former Army officer in the Algeria who afterward entered the Order in 1890. His inspiration and writings led to the founding of the Little Brothers of Jesus among other religious congregations. 

 

 

The monastery made wine at this old winery, which ceased production in 2006.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The monastery is a modern facility built in 1850 near Saint-Laurent-les-Bains, a small valley town. The monks follow a quiet, industrious monastic life begun by Bernard de Clairvaux in 1098. This community is known as the White Monks because they wear a white cowl over their habits instead of a black one like the Benedictines. The photo above is the entrance to the chapel with a subtle but humorous sign reminding visitors that they are entering a quiet area. Below right are the monk's stalls.

This statue represents Notre Dame des Neiges (Our Lady of the Snows). It is a contemporary statue inspired by the medieval Virgins typical of the Auvergne area and the icon of Notre-Dame des Neiges, a painting that hangs in Sainte-Marie Majeure Church in Rome.

For more on our first trip to Notre Dame des Neiges, click on to my blog post of 2018.

To illustrate the power of this place, I had an inspiration while seated on a park bench overlooking the monastery's pasture. The barbed wire had only two lines. When I first came to Le Puy in 2017, I had a dream that I was trying to cross a field that was blocked with thick and knotted barbed wire that had a hole in it that I could see through. This dream occurred at a time I was trying to learn French. The barbed wire represented the barrier to fluency. So seeing this barbed wire today gave me hope that I was making a breakthrough with my language skills.

La Chaise Dieu

One of our favorite places is the abbey at La Chaise Dieu. It was founded by St. Robert in 1043 and redesigned to its present magnificence by Pope Clement VI, one of the Avignon popes, between 1344-50. The abbey features the Dance of Death murals, which were made during the Black Death (1347-50). On this visit, however, we saw and did some other things.

We arrived in time for Mass in the main church and sat in the 14th century monks' stalls. Although we were not treated to the big organ's music, we happened upon an art fair on the town's main drag.

However, the highlight of our visit were the 15-16th century tapestries on the Life of Christ with connections from the Old and New Testaments. They were absolutely breath-taking in size, color, craftsmanship, and narrative. They come in 3 parts: one aspect in the life of Christ in the middle, its Old Testament connection on the left and its New Testament connection on the right.

The tapestries used to hang above the monks' stalls (left). Today, they are in a separate room in the abbey that is climate controlled. The tapestries are part of a tour that takes visitors around different parts of the abbey. When we return here some other time, I would definitely want to see the tapestries again. They are too formidable to take in only once.

                                                                                                                        

 

Cloister courtyard ambulatory with quatrefoil windows. A typical design of Benedictine abbeys. Trefoils and quatrefoils are regarded as openings for the Holy Spirit to enter a place.

 

 

 

For more about La Chaise Dieu abbey, see my blog of December 10, 2019.

 

We also stopped for a meal at our favorite restaurant, Au Four à Bois. It's an Italian restaurant that features delicious pasta, salads, and omelettes. Here's a sample of Eluiza's carbonara and my bolognese pasta and chicken cutlet along with our dessert and coffee.

 

Château de la Rochelambert

We have passed it several times on our way to other places, but this time we made it our destination. The Château de la Rochelambert is built on the side of a hill and overlooks a broad valley of forest near Saint-Paulien.  

The château was built in 1074 and served as a fortification that protected pilgrims en route to Compostelle, Spain. In 1562 the château was attacked by the Protestants who destroyed parts of it. A few decades later it was repaired by Hélène de Lestrange, spouse of François, the marquis of La Rochelambert. The La Rochelambert family owned the château until 1922 when they sold it to Monsieur Bresset, an antique dealer. He furnished it with priceless items of art. The château was also used in 1962 as the set for 13 episodes of a TV series "The Beauty and her Phantom."

Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin, better known as George Sand (1804-76), was a French novelist, memoirist, and journalist who stayed at the château in 1859. She was inspired to write a novel, Jean de la Roche (Jean of the Rock), that takes place at the château. She writes:

"The small manor is, as far as the exterior, a true gem of architecture....Everything built out of local tawny lava rock, it does not make it look too badly, seen from the other side of the ravine, it is like a work cut out of cork, especially because of the thickness of the rock, which makes it implausible."

Sand was one of the most famous writers of the European Romantic era and well-respected by the French literary and cultural elite. Her father was of noble birth and her mother a commoner. Like many other famous women of the time, she liked to dress in men's clothes in public and smoke tobacco. Her novels and political commentaries likewise carried a subversive tone. She had many affairs, including one with Frederick Chopin. 

The château has many religious art pieces as well as military swords and armor. However, one of its most stunning art pieces was Jesus riding a donkey to Jerusalem. I have never seen a sculpture like it. Its size alone, more than 5 feet high, created a powerful and inspiring impression. On the right, the lord's bed features elaborate oak carvings with a canopy.

 

Privas

                                 

Today, we were on a research mission in Privas to try to find the place where the guillotine might have been for three of our sisters who were beheaded during the French Revolution. Three other sisters were guillotined in Le Puy in Place Martouret. Their crime? They hid priests who would not take the Oath of Loyalty to the Revolutionaries and abandon their commitment to the Church. Although we could not confirm where the guillotine was, we deduced that it was here because World War I memorials are usually put in an important place. It was interesting that we also found this school named after St. Joseph. Perhaps our sisters once taught there. We need to do further research on this, however.

The trip to Privas was far from home, so we packed a lunch and ate it in a little square in a little town nearby. Afterward, we celebrated the balmy summer day with a delicious cup of coffee in an outdoor café in Privas.

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

Saturday is "Free Day"

In these last days of summer before the busy second half of the season begins, we savor every moment by doing the things we want to do. I went shopping at the street market and afterward had some coffee and a cheese/egg galette at my favorite outdoor café, the Santa Lucia in Place du Plot. Delicious!

 

 

 

 

 Lac Bleu

It was a long walk upward and we didn't know where it would lead us. However, when we arrived, we found a stunning blue-colored lake. In 90-degree heat, a walk in the forest was refreshing, and we were rewarded with this small jewel of a lake. The rich, blue color was the result of run-off from the area's previous days of mining tungsten. The photos below show the path to the lake, the small fish in the lake, and the picturesque rocks in and around the lake.

 

 

 

Assumption Eve -- August 14

The mayor of Le Puy held a reception at the Hôtel de Ville in honor of our new bishop, Yves Baumgarten who was appointed by Pope Francis in February. The mayor took the annual occasion of the Assumption to recognize the Catholic faith and its contributions to the community.The bishop previously served as vicar general of the Diocese of Lyon. He succeeds Bishop Luc Crepy, who left last year to head the Versailles diocese. 

The event also gave us an opportunity to see the inside of the Hôtel de Ville. We stood at one of the windows and looked out at Place Martouret below. This view had great meaning for us since three of our sisters were guillotined in this square during the French Revolution. People watched the spectacle from these same windows.

 

 

 

Assumption -- August 15

Assumption celebrates the ascension of the Blessed Mother to Heaven. This is a BIG feast day in the Catholic Church. France, in general, is very devoted to her as well. Since the Cathedral goes by this name:  Notre Dame of the Assumption it is one of the biggest celebrations in Le Puy with a procession and prayers around the old city. The procession route is lined with blue and white streamers. Speakers are placed along the route for the prayers and songs. Thousands of people of all ages and stations in life show up as a witness to their faith.

 

Fortunately, after 6 weeks of a heat wave in the high 90s, the weather cooled down just in time for the procession. This video provides a sample of the procession's beginning on the city streets.

 

The summer came to a close with relief from a six-week-long heat wave in the 90s and sometimes over 100 degrees. We had become more familiar with the incredible landscapes and history of the Auvergne area in which Le Puy lies. And, we were ready to receive the many guests who are coming to the Centre during the second half of the 2022 season. Although the season had been modified a bit from our original plan of 6 programs, we have had a full and busy year, the first since the Covid pandemic closed us down for 2 years. It's been very good to get back to our mission!

Springtime Jaunts in the Auvergne

 

Springtime in the Auvergne area is amazing. The flowers sprout, the trees grow their baby leaves, and the mountains spread a sheen of green again, which the cows, horses, and sheep seem to appreciate. What else could Eluiza and I do but get in the car and enjoy the views. Here is an account of our travels.

Saint-Paulien

 

 

The most outstanding feature in St. Paulien is Saint Georges Church. The Romanesque stone building was constructed in the 12th century followed by many changes in the 16th. There are several polychrome paintings that mix black, pink, purple, gray or white colors. Here are some photos of the magnificent interior, which are as striking as the exterior.

 

 

 

 

 

St. Paulien has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and Celtic tribes settled here in the second century BC. The territories of this area were owned by the Polignac family from the time of the Carolingians kings (since 751) until the French Revolution (1789-99).

St. Paulien is much more extensive than the more obvious two main roads and church. After parking the car and walking into the interior of the town, we discovered not only a life so different from what we commonly see passing through this little town, but one that went back to the Romans as evidenced by this old wall.

    

Some interesting structures dot the streets on the interior of the city.

 

             

As with most French towns, there is a war memorial from World War I. This one features an obelisk and a marble etching of an angel leading a fallen soldier home to God. These memorials are all different, all respectful, and all touching. You really get a sense of loss incurred by the war as the names listed show several members of the same family had died in the war.

Resources

https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/saint-paulien-15451.htm

  

Chambon-sur-Lignon

We only went 50 minutes from Le Puy to take in the views of Chambon-sur-Lignon, one of the small towns on the Lignon River. We were still cautious about Covid and wore our masks, but many other people were already finished with the virus and went without their masks.

After a coffee at the above café, we walked around town and found these interesting buildings: a post office on the left and a pizzeria on the right.

I've seen photos of old French women looking out their windows and found a shot just above the café where we stopped for coffee. You can make up a story about who she is, what she sees, and what she is thinking about.

 

Déjeuner and a Ride in the Country 

We lost our regular caterer this year and had to find another. In fact, we found two caterers: one with the schools and the other with a restaurant, butcher shop and deli. We tried the restaurant, The Mirage, which is located at a small airport outside of Le Puy. It's a simple and not very decorative place. Workers come here for an inexpensive lunch of two main dishes plus appetizers, cheese, dessert, wine, and coffee. A perfect French meal! Over 100 people are usually served at noon. It has become one of our favorite places.

The tables are all set up ready for déjeuner with bread at each place. It is empty at 11:30 when we usually arrive but full by noon as men in hard hats and steel-toed boots wander in for their meal. On our first visit here we met a retired colonel from the French military. He had been all over the world during his tenure in service.

 

 

After déjeuner, we stopped by a little town called Sanssac just to see what was there. We found an operating church. On the side of it was a World War I memorial. As usual, many brothers from little towns like Sanssac were killed in the war deemed to end all wars. Losses of a good part of the upcoming generation were painful for families and for the economy. For all countries, 9-15 million men died in the war. In France alone, 1.7 million soldiers died (from military, disease, and malnutrition causes) and 4.3 million were wounded.

Arlet

Wandering around the French countryside reveals many little out-of-the-way places. On this day we found Artlet. While we were there someone was barbecuing some delicious-smelling meat while we looked at the sights. The two most striking places were this mini-château at the end of the street, and a little medieval church with several very old artifacts.

        

The church is remarkable for its placement in a remote area deep in the valley of the Cronce River, which is a tributary to the Allier River. Its isolation is a clue that it was probably a priory belonging to La Chaise-Dieu, a Benedictine abbey. 

 

The church was probably built in the 13th century. The doorway retains its original 14th century door jambs. The oculus (round opening over the door) is a modern addition, however, the triangular belfry at the top of the church is original and one of the few examples in existence. It was restored at the beginning of the 20th century and then rebuilt after a violent storm in 1912. The bells in the belfry were removed and hidden during the time of Napoleon for fear that they would be melted down and used for cannons.

                              

The church consists of a nave with three bays behind the altar. The vault is supported by three semi-circular arches, which was typical of Romanesque architecture. The ceiling has vaults supported by crossed ribs with a circular cross-section, much like St. Julian Basilica in Brioude (click here for Brioude blog post). 

     

This 12th or 13th century crucifix is one of the church's greatest treasures that had been hidden in a barn during the French Revolution. The face of Christ is Jewish with a short beard and long hair parted in the middle. His head is not crowned with thorns and his eyes are wide open. His expression is serene in order to de-emphasize the "torments" of the cross.

This monk is really a saint carrying a book. It is made from wood with a polychrome decoration and comes from the 17th century.

The triptych is painted wood that dates from the 16th century. Its center refers to Veronica wiping the face of Jesus with her veil as he carried the cross to Calvary. His image was miraculously imprinted on the veil. The left-hand panel features St. Peter and the right-hand panel shows the donor of the triptych with his confessor. This tryptych is known as an "ex-voto" or one made in memorial of someone. The statue of St. Peter, the first pope, is made from gilded and polychrome wood.

            

And finally, the cemetery.

 

It is still amazing to find these little towns. They are not suburbs of a city, but rather independent towns in rural areas with a mayor, a church, and various activities for the residents, and in the case of Arlet, nature hikes, camping, and canoeing for tourists. Many towns are on pilgrimage routes and so they provide a respite for hikers and pilgrims alike.

 

 

April in Murat

 

 

On one beautiful April afternoon we took a drive through the mountains and valleys of the Auvergne region and discovered the little town called Murat. Small towns in this region are interesting because they are like architectural and sociological time capsules. The towns are comprised of buildings, art, and streetscapes that both engage and educate you about life and its priorities from another time. Although medieval towns like Murat have been updated for modern times to meet modern needs, travelers can appreciate the old stone buildings that are a wonder of engineering ingenuity and artistic creativity. (The building with turrets is a 16th century mansion called Maison de la Faune.)

 

This picturesque medieval and Renaissance town is built onto the basaltic rock of Bonnevie, which towers over the historic center, and is surrounded by two other volcanic mountains: the Bredons Rock and the Chastel-sur-Murat Rock. In the Middle Ages, Murat was a fortified town and a major road hub, which encouraged trade. Many fairs and markets were held there.

 

The entrance to Murat leads directly to the center of town where the city hall, cafés, hotels, and apartment buildings provide amenities to residents and visitors alike. Further up the hill lay the shops and the medieval church. 

 

 The City Hall and Office of Tourism stand majestically at one end of the central city square while a monument to the ending of slavery stands about 100 yards at the other. War memorials are usually placed in the center part of a town. This memorial is the first of its kind that I've seen in France.                                  

 

    The Tribunal was a former Dominican teachers convent built in the 17th century. (It is located next to the church.) Fire destroyed it in 1771 but it was reconstructed in the style of Louis XV (1715-74). During the revolution (1789-99), it became the tribunal of Murat and would remain so for the next three centuries. Two notable little niches situated to both sides of the round window are characteristic of the Louis XIII style (1610-43).  

The buildings in Murat are constructed with local volcanic rock. Three kinds of this hard, gray stone are used extensively throughout the town: basalt, trachyte, and phonolithe for slate roofs. These buildings and the fountain pictured here go back to the Renaissance.

    

            

 

The Collegiate Church of Our Lady of the Olive Trees (Notre-Dame-des-Oliviers) was built between the 12th and the 14th centuries with statues and altarpieces made in the 17th and 19th centuries.

 

Here is a traditional knife shop. The knife (couteau) was an indispensable tool for defense and cutting food and materials. Legend has it that the Auvergne crusaders brought back knives from the East.  During the Middle Ages adults possessed a knife for eating and for doing multiple daily tasks. Since the 13th century Thiers in central France has been the chief  knife-making center for the country where 70 percent of the instruments are sharpened and sold. In the early 20th century, housewives bought their knives separately because they were not considered part of basic cutlery as they are today.

 

The Blessed Mother holds a prominent place in France and can be seen almost everywhere. In Murat, a statue of Our Lady of Haute-Auvergne is placed on top of a prominent hill that provides a natural enclosure on one side of the town.

A 16th century house with a stone staircase.

 

Apartment buildings are sited along the sides of the main square with a bus transit stop located in the middle. Apartments in France are typically bought and sold rather than rented as they are in the USA. However, the big challenge for these buildings is to provide parking for the residents' cars. Small walking towns can make access to and from the places that accommodate the essentials of daily life reduce the number of cars.

 Balconies and open windows and shutters allow people to look out their windows in a more obvious way. I've become intrigued by these scenes and sneek a snap of my camera on this woman surveying the town center from her window. By the way, windows in France don't have screens, so they make hanging out the window easier. Of course, these beautiful windows invite insects inside.

 Resources

https://www.france-voyage.com/tourism/murat-167.htm