Friday, November 11, 2022

England -- Victoria & Albert Museum in London



 Just walking into the Victoria and Albert Museum was an awesome experience. The rotunda and the Hereford Cathedral rood screen (see below) stood out. Even the guard who greeted me at the entrance enjoyed my astonishment. The museum was just down the road from my hotel and a quick bus ride away. While the British Museum is one of the great museums in Europe, I particularly like this one because it was more less crowded and had some great works of art there.

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Established in 1852, the museum houses the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts, and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects including those from the Renaissance where I spent most of my time. It was named after the ruling Queen Victoria and her consort Prince Albert. Here are some of the objects that especially intrigued me with accompanying explanations from museum curators.

 


1497 St. Sebastian

 St. Sebastian was believed to protect people from the plague. This powerfully expressive reliquary was a votive offering commissioned for a Cistercian monastery during an epidemic. Two relics bound in silk fabric are visible behind a glass window. They may be fragments of wood, perhaps thought to be shards of the arrows that pierced the saint.

Partially gilded silver, set with glass, pearls, sapphires and rubies.

 

 

 



 

 

About 1500  This reliquary bust has inscriptions on the front and base that indicate it once contained the relic of the head of Antigius, a mysterious saint and legendary bishop of Brescia. It was commissioned by the monastery of St. Faustino and St. Giovito in Brescia where the relics had been stored since the 9th century.






1430-40  Death of the Virgin   Christ is shown with his hand raised in blessing his mother. He has returned to transport his mother's soul and body to Heaven upon her death. Some of the apostles are reading prayers, as was recommended around every death bed. On the far right, one apostle holds a censer so another can pour incense into it from an incense boat.

 


 

About 1415-50   The Angel Gabriel from the Annunciation

This rare wood sculpture from 15th century France was probably part of an altarpiece. The angel is telling the Virgin Mary that she is about to bear the Son of God. The Annunciation was familiar to all Christians, though Gabriel usually approaches from the left.





1499-1505  Effigy of Don García de Osorio and wife

Don García, a knight of the Order of Santiago, was buried in the church of San Pedro in Toledo, Spain. Though he wears chain mail and armour, his helmet has been removed and place at his feet with a symbolic figure of mourning (below). His wife's effigy next to him has a similar figure at her feet.


1499-1505  Effigy of Doña María de Perea  Doña María holds rosary beads as a sign of her piety. This piety is also symbolised by the books at her feet. Her sober, modest dress is nonnetheless expensive, as suggested by the delicate embroidery edging her undergarment. Don García, her husband is show nearby, and both effigies may originally have been painted.

 



1425-50  Lector's Tombstone.  Its spiral columns, elaborate Gothic arch and arrange-ment of books beneath the figure, is similar to ones in Bologna. The books cowl and shoulder cape indicate the man was a lector at the University of Bologna. Lectors were often honored with such tombs.


 

 

About 1307   Effigy of an unknown knight

This effigy lies as if asleep on his sarcophagus. It was originally mounted high on a wall in the church, tilted at an angle to make it more visible. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Etching of a Medieval Knight in bronze.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

About 1565  The Rape of Proserpina

This dramatic sculpture shows Pluto, King of the Underworld, carrying off Proserpina with whom he had fallen in love. It originally belonged to Giovan Vettorio Soderini, a leading exponent of garden design in 16th century Florence in promoting the use of sculpture and fountains. Soderini described water as "the soul of cities and gardens". In 1594, the bronze group was sold to Antonio Salviati, who placed it on an elaborate fountain in his palace garden.





About 1480   This popular type of sculpture, known as a "Palmesel" or "Palm Donkey", represented Christ during religious services around Easter. On Palm Sunday, it was drawn through the streets to commemorate his triumphal entry into Jerusalem. 

This is the second time I've seen this sculpture. Its realistic representation is astounding.








The Nativity









Ambo for reading the Scriptures                                         A pretty cocky rooster




1300-50  St. Michael in walnut painted and gilded. Wings and spear missing

The Archangel Michael is shown overcoming Satan in the form of a dragon. During the 14th century the cult of St. Michael became widespread, but it was particularly cherished in France by the Valois dynasty. A sculpture like this might have stood in a church aisle or in a chapel dedicated to St. Michael.





 

About 1480-90  St. George and the Dragon

St. George was a saint from the East, but as a result of the Crusades he became popular throughout Europe. Having rescued a princess by slaying a dragon, he personified the ideals of chivalry and was often depicted with the tamed or dead beast beside him.







 

About 1530-40  St. Margaret and the Dragon. Pregnant women called upon her to protect them in childbirth because of her miraculous escape from the belly of a dragon. 

 

 

 

 

 




1500-30  Tomb Effigy of a Woman

This woman may have been a wealthy widow who joined a religious order on her husband's death. She wears a loose habit, probably similar to her burial clothes, and the wrinkles around her eyes suggest her age. Full-length effigies of women holding books were popular in Naples, where the relief probably originated.




1430, moved and repaired 1536  Monument of Marchese Spinetta Malaspina

Spinetta Malaspina was a condottiere (military command-er) who died in 1407. Later, his heirs placed this memorial in the church of San Giovanni in Sacco that Spinetta founded outside the city. Its equestrian form is typical of Verona. Originally, the sculp-ture was probably brightly painted and gilded. The sarcopha-gus behind the row of figures is merely symbolic, indicating that the monument should be read as a cenotaph--a memorial with no body.


1430-50 Devonshire Hunting Tapestry

Tapestry is one of the oldest forms of woven textiles. For centuries these beautiful objects were among the most magnificent possessions of kings, princes and popes. The Devonshire Hunting Tapestry was probably made in Arras, in modern day France – a centre famed for supplying the courts of France and Burgundy with magnificent wall hangings. 

Tapestries were expensive and much-prized during the medieval and Renaissance periods. They were easy to transport and well-suited to the traveling lifestyle of the northern courts up to the 17th century, providing means for insulating and decorating the coldest and gloomiest castle. Tapestries would have hung from floor to ceiling and been placed edge to edge, like wallpaper in a modern room. Those with narratives also provided entertainment and interest for the household and guests at a time of low literacy, when images were extremely important.


The hunt was a particularly powerful theme and would have been a familiar pastime as well as an important source of food to many of the high-born individuals and families who owned tapestries. Henry VIII was known to have owned over 200 tapestries illustrating hawking and hunting scenes.


 

This tapestry also features a number of elegant couples. In the center of the tapestry a lady wears a sumptuous blue gown decorated with back-to-front letters that spell the motto 'much desire'. The man's sleeve is decorated with silver shapes that resemble teardrops and probably also relate to the pursuit of love.



 

The rich red gown of the lady is lined with miniver, an expensive fur obtained from the bellies of Baltic squirrels. A lining on this scale would have required hundreds of skins, taken from squirrels killed during the winter months.





Replica of Trajan's Column


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In back-to-back wars fought between A.D. 101 and 106, the emperor Trajan mustered tens of thousands of Roman troops, crossed the Danube River on two of the longest bridges the ancient world had ever seen, defeated a mighty barbarian empire on its mountainous home turf twice, then systematically wiped it from the face of Europe.

Trajan’s war on the Dacians, a civilization in what is now Romania, was the defining event of his 19-year rule. The loot he brought back was staggering....The booty changed the landscape of Rome. To commemorate the victory, Trajan commissioned a forum that included a spacious plaza surrounded by colonnades, two libraries, a grand civic space known as the Basilica Ulpia, and possibly even a temple. The forum was “unique under the heavens,” one early historian enthused, “beggaring description and never again to be imitated by mortal men.”

Towering over it was a stone column 126 feet high, crowned with a bronze statue of the conqueror. Spiraling around the column like a modern-day comic strip is a narrative of the Dacian campaigns: Thousands of intricately carved Romans and Dacians march, build, fight, sail, sneak, negotiate, plead, and perish in 155 scenes. Completed in 113, the column has stood for more than 1,900 years.

 by Andrew Curry of National Geographic, September 2012

 

 

 

About 1760-64   Joshua Ward was a renowned philanthropist who founded several hospitals for the poor. Known at the time as a "quack doctor", he was not medically trained but made his fortune by concocting popular patent medicines. This marble figure may have been intended for a planned monument in Westminster Abbey, which was never built. His hand gesture indicates generosity, while his bulky figure suggests prosperity.



1809-48  This marble monument and poem were dedicated to the sacred memory of Emily Georgiana, the beloved wife of George William, Earl of Winchilsea and Nottingham who died July 10, 1848 and was buried in the chancel of Ewerby Church in Lincolnshire. She was 39 years old. Lawrence Macdonald (1799-1879) was a Scottish sculptor who worked mainly in Rome, specialising in portraits for a British clientele. This memorial shows Lady Winchilsea in an elegant classic pose inspired by Canova's famous portrait of Pauline Bonaparte, also reclining on a daybed. The inscription evokes the sadness of her early death.

Here is the poem inscribed on the sides of the monument. A reclining figure reading a book was a common pose for tombstones at the time.

When the knell rung for the dying
Soundeth for me
And my corse coldly is lying
Neath the green tree

When the turf strangers are heaping
Covers my breast
Come not to gaze on me weeping
I am at rest.

All my life coldly and sadly 
The days have gone by
I who dreamed wildly and madly am happy to die.

Long since my heart has been breaking
Its pain is past
A time has been set to its aching
Peace comes at last.
 


1862 -- Hereford Cathedral Rood Screen

This rood screen was a star piece in the International Exhibition of 1862, held in London, before its installation in the Cathedral in 1863. A contemporary described it as "one of the most important works, not only for its size but for the care with which it had been executed, and the successful endeavor to treat what is in fact a large architectural subject in metal alone." In its profusion of ornament and color, the screen is one of the finest examples of the Gothic Revival style. It took just five months to make. It is one of the monuments of High Victorian art, a masterpiece in the Gothic Revival style. 

The 1862 exhibition was intended to stimulate trade as well as to have popular appeal. Good design was a major consideration. The exhibition included every important type and process of contemporary manufacture. 

The screen is 10.5 meters high, 11 meters long and weighs over 8 tons. Its basic structure of timber and cast iron is embellished with wrought iron, burnished brass, and copper. Much of the copper and ironwork is painted in a wide range of colors. The arches and columns are decorated with polished quartz and panels of mosaic.

A screen was essential to a medieval cathedral, as the barrier which separated nave from choir, congregation from clergy. By the 19th century, most had disappeared. Sir George Gilbert Scott began to reinstate this medieval feature. Noted especially for building new churches, Scott began to restore old churches in the 1860s. He aimed to reintroduce a sense of architectural and spatial cohesion, and boldly added modern work to achieve this aim. His most impressive screens were largely of iron, as at the cathedrals of Lichfield (1861), Hereford (1862), and Salisbury (1869-72), and all were constructed by Skidmore of Coventry. No medieval screens were made of iron--then far too costly--but always of stone or wood. Scott regarded iron as an important "modern" material and used it extensively, both structurally and decoratively.

Celebrated in the 19th century, the screen fell from favor in the 20th century. Aesthetically, it was seen as ugly and incongruous in a medieval building. Liturgically, it was held to form an unacceptable barrier.




 

 

 

 

 

 


Queen Victoria's sapphire and diamond coronet (left). After Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria was grief-stricken and for years could not face the public ordeal of the ceremonial Opening of Parliament. But on February 6, 1866, she came in from Windsor for the event "terribly nervous and agitated". For the opening she wore "a small diamond and sapphire coronet, rather at the back". For this special occasion, and in this later portrait by Graves, Queen Victoria chose to wear the coronet that Albert had designed for her. It remains an enduring symbol of their love--and one of the prized treasures of the museum.











Prince Albert designed this coronet (right) for his wife, Queen Victoria. It is one of the most important jewels worn by the young queen. Albert took a keen interest in his wife's jewellery. On February 22, 1843, Victoria recorded in her journal: "We were very busy looking over various pieces of old jewelry of mine., settling to have some reset....Albert has such taste, and arranges every for me about my jewels". The coronet is articulated so Victoria could wear it either as a closed circle or opened out at the back.

 

And finally...

 

 

A memorial plaque for museum workers who lost their lives in World War I.

I happened to be at the museum on November 11 just before 11 a.m. The museum announced a 2-minute moment of silence in memory of the war's victims. Being in London, England at this time and paying my respects to the fallen during this time made the war more real, more impactful.
 

 




Resources

Victoria and Albert Museum curators -- https://www.vam.ac.uk

https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/tapestry

Trajan's column -- "A War Diary Soars Over Rome"  https://www.nationalgeographic.com/trajan-column/article.html  

 

 

Monday, August 8, 2022

Renaissance Castles on the Loire -- Chenonceau, Château of the Ladies

The estate of Chenonceau is first mentioned in writing in the 11th century although the current château was built in 1514–1522 on the foundations of an old mill, which was later extended to span the river. The château is an architectural mixture of late Gothic and early Renaissance and the second most-visited château in France with over 800,000 visitors per year. The first most-visited château is the Royal Palace of Versailles.


In the 13th century, the fief of Chenonceau belonged to the Marques family. The château was torched in 1412 to punish its owner, Jean Marques, for sedition. Afterward, he rebuilt a château and fortified mill on the same site in the 1430s. Jean's heir, Pierre Marques, found it necessary, however, to sell the château because the rebuilding had incurred heavy and unpayable debts.

Thomas Bohier, chamberlain to King Charles VIII of France, purchased the castle from Pierre Marques in 1513. Most of it was demolished and then rebuilt it 1515-1521 with the 15th-century keep still standing (pointed structure on the left). Bohier's wife, Katherine Briçonnet, oversaw most the work, and built it according to the plans of the Venetian Palazzo. She was the first of the "Ladies" of Chenonceau who played a major role in embellishing the château and its gardens. She especially delighted in hosting French nobility, including King Francis I on two occasions.


In 1535, King François I seized the château from the Bohiers' son for unpaid debts to the Crown. After François' death in 1547, the new king, Henry II, gifted the château to his favorite mistress, Diane de Poitiers. In 1555 she commissioned Philibert de l'Orme to build the arched bridge joining the château to its opposite bank, which made the architecture of Chenonceau unique in all the world. Diane then oversaw the planting of extensive flower and vegetable gardens and a variety of fruit trees. Set along the banks of the river, but buttressed from flooding by stone terraces, the exquisite gardens were laid out in 4 triangles.

Diane de Poitiers, who was renown for her beauty, intelligence, and sense of business, was the unquestioned mistress of the castle. Ownership remained with the crown until 1555 when years of delicate legal manœuvres finally yielded possession to her. 

photo by François Levalet
 

Nevertheless, after Henry II died in 1559, his strong-willed Italian-born widow and regent Catherine de Medici forced Diane out and made her agree to exchange Château Chenonceau for the Château Chaumont. Catherine then made Chenonceau her own favorite residence and spent a fortune adding a new series of magnificent gardens, raising the height of the gallery, adding rooms between the chapel and the library, and introducing Italian sumptuousness and glorious parties in order to establish the authority of her son, the young King François II. 

 

Louise of Lorraine married Henry III, Catherine de Medici's other son. In 1589, on the death of her husband, she withdrew to the château and went into mourning. Forgotten by all, she had trouble maintaining her queen-dowager lifestyle since she had devoted her time to reading, charity work, and prayer. Her death marked the end of a royal presence at Chenonceau. 

 

 

 

Henri IV obtained Chenonceau for his mistress Gabrielle d'Estrées by paying the debts of Catherine de Medici, which had been inherited by Louise. In return, Louise left the château to her niece Françoise de Lorraine, who at that time was six years old and betrothed to four-year-old César de Bourbon, duc de Vendôme, the natural son of Gabrielle d'Estrées and Henri IV. The château belonged to the Duc de Vendôme and his descendants for more than a hundred years. However, his descendants had little interest in the château. In 1720, the château was bought by the Duke of Bourbon who sold off all of the château's contents. Many of its fine statues ended up at Versailles.

 

In 1733 the estate was sold for 130,000 livres to a wealthy squire named Claude Dupin. His wife, Louise Dupin, was "an intelligent, beautiful, and highly cultivated woman who had the theatre in her blood." She was an exquisite representative of the 18th century Age of Enlightenment and gave renewed splendor to the château. She started an outstanding salon with the elite among writers, poets, playwrights, scientists, and philosophers such as Montesquieu, Voltaire and Rousseau. She managed to save the château during the French Revolution from destruction because "it was essential to travel and commerce, being the only bridge across the river for many miles." 

 

In 1864 Marguerite Pelouze, a rich heiress from the industrial bourgeoisie, acquired the château and restored it around 1875. The interior was almost completely renewed. However, the costs for these projects--not to mention the elaborate parties--depleted her finances, and the château was seized and sold to Cuban millionaire José-Emilio Terry in 1891. Terry then sold it in 1896 to a family member, Francisco Terry, who had it until 1913. Henri Menier, the family famous for its chocolates, acquired it. The family still owns it to this day. 

 

During World War I, Gaston Menier set up the gallery to be used as a hospital ward. Simonne Menier, the wife of Gaston's son, was in charge of a hospital installed in the château's two galleries, which were transformed and equipped at her family's expense. Over 2,000 wounded soldiers were treated here until 1918. Her bravery also led her to carry out numerous actions for the French Resistance during World War II.