Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Ireland -- Dublin


 

Dublin was founded in 841 by the Vikings. They called their new settlement Duvlin, which means Black Pool named after the color of the rivers that looked black. A settlement had been established in the area by the Gaels during or before the 7th century. In 1170, the Normans arrived. They built churches on the tops of hills. The city expanded rapidly from the 17th century and was briefly the second largest in the British Empire and sixth largest in Western Europe.  

Following independence in 1922, Dublin became the capital of the Irish Free State, renamed Ireland in 1937. Dublin is a center for education, arts and culture, administration and industry. As of 2018, the city was listed by the Globalization and World Cities Research Network (GaWC) as a global city, with a ranking of "Alpha minus", which places it as one of the top thirty cities in the world. 

 Here are several tidbits about Dublin that explain its history and culture.

 

Saint Patrick was a fifth-century Romano-British Christian missionary and bishop in Ireland. Known as the "Apostle of Ireland", he is the primary patron saint of Ireland, the other patron saints being Brigit of Kildare and Columba. He is credited with bring Christianity to Ireland.


 

 

 

Saint Patrick's Cathedral was founded in 1191 as a Roman Catholic cathedral. It is currently the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland. 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The Guiness Brewery is located on a half-square mile complex in Old Dublin on James Street (above). It was founded in 1759. Today, it produces 3 million pints for the local population.

Guiness is very generous and socially-conscience. One third of Dublin's social housing is run by Guiness or at least financed by the company.



The harp is part of the company logo.





 

 

Trinity College dates back to Queen Elizabeth I who founded it in 1592. The institution plays host to the Book of Kells, handwritten copies of the Bible that were written by medieval monks. The university started out as a monastic site before it became an institution of higher learning. It sits on 42 acres. 

I walked on the campus, a familiar place for me after nearly 50 years on college campuses as a student, a publicist, and a professor. 

While I was sitting on a bench in the main square, I ran into a Chinese couple who were taking photos of each other. The man is studying English so that he can work on a master's degree in information systems management. His young wife was with him although she was not very fluent in English as he was.

He asked me what I did during my career and I told him. He seemed to think that I was an accomplished professor. I had reached a goal as he is aspiring to reach his. I'm sure he will. University campuses are places of hope and ambition--always.

 

 

 

 

General Post Office


It was here that the 1916 rebellion and the war for independence began. The building was badly damaged. Bullet holes from that time can still be seen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Parnell Square

Parnell Square, a Georgian design, was formerly called Rutland Square until it was renamed after Charles Stewart Parnell (1846–1891). Parnell was an Irish nationalist politician who served as a Member of Parliament (1875-91), Leader of the Home Rule League (1880-82), and Leader of the Irish Parliamentary Party (1882-91). His party held the balance of power in the House of Commons during the Home Rule debates of 1885–1886. Parnell was one of the best political organizers of an Irish political party, and one of the most formidable figures in parliamentary history. Despite his talent for politics, a personal scandal detracted from his image. Ultimately, he was unable to secure his lifelong goal of obtaining Irish Home Rule.

Many notable buildings are here in this distinguished square including Chapter One, one of Dublin's most acclaimed restaurants, and the Writers Museum. Conway's Bar (now closed) is the place outside of which Patrick Pearse surrendered to the British Army after the 1916 Easter Rising. The political party Sinn Féin has its Dublin head office here near the offices of a number of trades unions and other organizations. Many famous people also live and have lived in this area.


In 2011, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip visited here. The outcome of this gesture was a melting of the ice between the Irish and English after hundreds of years of animosity.


The Georgian Mile is an unofficial term used to describe a continuous, mile-long street  largely lined with Georgian townhouses. According to The Irish Times, the stretch was once dubbed "the longest and arguably the finest Georgian streetscape in the world." It was built by the Anglo-Irish wealthy families between the 1780s and the 1830s. Many famous people lived here. Today, the buildings house offices with apartments on the top floors. In the old days coal was imported and used for heating. The coal was stored in caves in the subterranean parts of the buildings.

 

Economy

Dublin has 1.5 million people living here out of a 5 million population in the country. Many major corporations including the pharmaceuticals, digitals, financial services have located here. There is no heavy industry.

Rentals are high averaging 2,000 Euros per month. The average household salary is 38,000 Euros. Ireland must import fossil fuels and much of the cost for this energy has been due to the Ukrainian War. The government has tried to ease the burden on households by providing families with 200 Euros per month.


Dublin Traffic Jams are the worst. They are always there without much relief. There is no underground and the lack of urban planning for the huge influx of people coming to the city has made it what it is. Every day the traffic is bad. Rents are sky high.

 

 


Irish Fun Night

 
 
On our second night in Dublin we went to an Irish dinner fête and were greeted by the proprietor as we walked into the pub.



The Irish are well-known throughout the world for their music, singing, and dancing. It is their great gift to humanity. This singing group didn't fail to disappoint. Our group had an Irish dinner--with whiskey and Irish coffee--and a little entertainment. It was great fun and a memorable evening!!! It is evenings like these that make the country come alive and share its spirit with visitors. Here are snippets of the performances.

 

"Too-La-Roo-La-Ral"


 Traditional Irish Dancers

 "Danny Boy"

 

Upon reflection

I have thoroughly enjoyed this trip even though it is a bit grueling to ride the bus for long distances. However, what we see and do inspires me to return here for a longer and more leisurely trip. I'm not sure when or how, but Ireland and Scotland have truly captured my soul!

These countries have struggled with war, pestilence, famine, and attempts to tamp down their culture, language, and identity. But they have survived and endured. What spirit! Perhaps this spirit is best reflected in their music and architecture. The big, black sturdy stones of Edinburgh reflect the strength and drive of the Scots--as well as their kilts and bagpipes. Such a display of manliness with an underlying kindness was beautiful. The mystical lands of the Emerald Isle uplift and dazzle the soul; the inspire spiritual connection with the Divine. Finally, one very common experience of my time with the Scots and the Irish was their extraordinary friendliness and welcoming hospitality to us strangers from other lands. They treated us as friends, not just tourists. They allowed us to see their souls.
 

 

Resources

Andrew Speed, guide for CostSaver Travel Company

Wikipedia



Ireland -- Glendalough Monastery

 

One of the spookiest places I've ever visited is the old and very secluded grounds of the monastery at Glendalough--one of the most important in Ireland. This scene of the graveyard looks like something out of a horror movie. And yet, this place also felt very spiritual.


And no wonder. Glendalough has been a place of pilgrimage since the 6th century when St. Kevin lived here as a hermit and ascetic who attracted followers and established a monastery there.  Little is known for certain about Kevin, but there are many stories and myths that continue to fascinate and offer inspiration about him today. One is that he lived in a man-made cave, now known as Kevin's Bed. He lived in Nature and made friends with the birds and animals there. He wore animal skins, walked barefoot, and ate very little. Of course, he spent most of his time in prayer. He eventually became known as a great teacher and people from all around visited him seeking help and guidance. In his later years he presided over Glendalough and lived through prayer, fasting, and teaching. St. Kevin is one of the patron saints in the Diocese of Dublin. Eventually, Glendalough, with its seven churches, became one of the chief pilgrimage destinations in Ireland. 

One of the stories of Kevin is his relationship with a blackbird where he held out his hand with trance-like stillness while the bird built a nest in it and layed her eggs. He then watched the eggs hatch and the chicks fledge. Kevin became a saint on December 9, 1903.   

 

Round Tower




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Because this area is so secluded, it is believed that the round tower was a marker to help direct pilgrims and other visitors to the monastery. It is quite remarkable that this tower still stands since the base underground is only a yard thick.

 

 

Gateway to the Sacred Grounds

Evidence of human activity in the valley possibly goes as far back as the Neolithic Period. Recent excavations have uncovered industrial activity that may be contemporary with St. Kevin’s reputed foundation of a ‘monastery’ around 600 AD. Glendalough is one of the most important medieval ecclesiastical landscapes in Ireland. Since the nineteenth century it has been one of Ireland’s premier tourist attractions.


 

Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral



 

The entrance to the cathedral (above) and the altar and sanctuary of the ancient Romanesque cathedral. Below is the nave with ancient gravestones implanted into the floor, a common practice in the UK churches.





 

 

 

 

 

 


Priests' House or Sacristy

 
 

Some people regard this building as the priests house as well as the sacristy of the Cathedral. Some people come here to touch the stones because they claim they have some healing power. I tried it and prayed for the health of my family and friends as well as my own health.





Church

One of the seven churches left in the Glendalough region with its roof still fully in tact. The interior shows some environmental wear.






 Celtic Cross

The Celtic Cross illustrates the union of the pagan Nature religions with Christianity. The round part represents the sun, while the cross represents Christianity.

Peter, our Irish guide from Dublin, explains the various sections of Glendalough. He said he finds this place one of the most inspiring in all of Ireland.


 Graves

Some of the graves are hundreds of years old, so they "move" with the earth with all its lumps and depressions. Many graves are recent, however. The white substance on the stones are a type of moss that indicates that the area is free of pollution.

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Holy Ground

Glendalough is also known as Gleann-Dá-Locha (the valley of the two lakes).
 
As it did St. Kevin, Glendalough has attracted pilgrims and visitors for almost 1500 years where they can experience the natural beauty of the landscape, walk the mountains and hills, explore the archaeological and historical monuments, and  respond to the sacred energy of this holy ground. 




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Resources

Glendalough Hermitage Centre -- https://glendaloughhermitage.ie/glendalough/

Monastic Ireland: Glendalough -- http://monastic.ie/history/glendalough/