Tunisia -- Tunis

After an orientation meeting this morning, our first day of a two-week tour of Tunisia included a trek to the heart of the city of Tunis. Tunis is a very colorful and bustling place, and it's full of history. 

 

 One of the first things we saw was a statue of the former president Habib Bourguiba who stands astride his horse at a major intersection on Avenue Habib Bourguiba. He served as prime minister from 1956 to 1957 of the Kingdom of Tunisia then became the first president of Tunisia from 1957 to 1987. Prior to his presidency, he led the nation to independence from France, ending the 75-year-old protectorate and earning the title of "Supreme Combatant".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the eastern end of Avenue Habib Bourguiba is the 125 foot-high clock tower with a gilt-top. Built to commemorate former President Ben Ali’s inauguration on November 7, 1987, the tower is part obelisk, part mid-century-style lampshade. Its lattice screen is illuminated from within at night.

This stunning walkway on Avenue Habib Bourguiba is a leftover of French colonial rule (1881-1956) where the center city saw rapid redevelopment with new boulevards and neighborhoods, the influx of a substantial number of European immigrants, construction of a water supply, natural gas and electricity networks, public transport services, and other public infrastructure. The Avenue de France was modeled after the Champs Élysée of Paris with its trees and broad walkways. It was re-named Avenue Habib Bourguiba after independence in 1956.

This walkway is the same one where the Arab Spring took place for an intensive campaign of civil resistance December 17, 2010 – January 14, 2011. It led to the ousting of 23-year-long dictator Zine El Abidine Ben Ali who officially resigned after fleeing to Saudi Arabia. The rebellion eventually led to a thorough democratization of the country and to free, democratic elections. The demonstrations were caused by high unemployment, food inflation, corruption, a lack of political freedoms, and poor living conditions. The protests resulted in scores of deaths and injuries, most of which were imposed by police and security forces.   

 

On the western end of Avenue Habib Bourguiba stands the statue of Ibn Khaldoun (1332-1406), the father of sociology. He is still read today. The introduction to his book, Almuqadima, is required reading for students. Khaldoun was born in Tunis with an Andulusian background.

I had learned in graduate school that Emile Durkheim of the 19th century was the father of sociology. He was French, and he wrote the book: Suicide. Now how did my professors overlook this 13th century Arab genius? Anas, our guide, said that it's all about propaganda of the dominant Western cultures.  Unfortunately, we overlook the contributions of the Arab cultures.

As Westerners, we are very proud of our accomplishments, and we identify with our guys. However, we often fail to see the bigger, more global picture of other cultures' contributions. The question is: how do we narrow this gap and acknowledge other cultures' contributions to humanity and its knowledge? The short answer is travel. 

By traveling the world we learn about other cultures and civilizations. This thought is emotional for me because I always knew I wanted to travel; the true meaning of travel is learning about other cultures. Travel opens us to greater possibilities and understandings. We learn more about our world as we see how others have learned to live in theirs.  Geography influences a culture's particular solutions for living in that particular place, and it is expressed through  its arts, science, politics, economics, agriculture, etc. I discovered that even at a young age I was on the right track for desiring to travel the world, and the Kellogg Fellowship (1984-87) opened the door for me to do it. I still thirst to see and experience more than the 46 countries I've visited.

I'm here in Tunisia because I wanted to visit another Muslim country that's not in the Middle East. (It's too dangerous there.) I also wanted to visit another Maghreb country that attracted French artists, particularly Delacroix and St. Exupéry. Today, many immigrants to France are from the Maghreb so this area is important to understand. Nevertheless, I had to remind myself that the Arabs influenced this part of the world over 700 years ago more than the French who colonized Tunisia in 1881 until 1956. 

 

Our first group photo on Avenue Habib Bourguiba in Tunis, capital of Tunisia

 

 The French influence in Tunisia is far more limited than I expected. After all, the Arabs had been here since the 7th century. Before them were the Berbers, native people who descended from the Stone Age. The French established a protectorate (i.e., colonialism) from 1881 to 1956. Nevertheless, they did leave behind some things like the French language and certain public buildings like the theatre (above), this arcade, St. Vincent de Paul Cathedral, and an old out-dated street sign.

Medina

Medina vendors take special care to display their products. I particularly loved the spice displays as shown here.The medina is a very colorful place with everything for sale and sellers who will pull you into their shop if you look like a tourist or someone who shows the slightest interest in the products. It was thus a bit difficult for me to take photos. 

 

 

 

 

Alleyways through the medina and are as interesting as the shops. 

 

 

 

Every medina has four things: shops, residences, a military fort (kasbah), and a Mosque. The Great Mosque Zitouna of Tunis was founded in 732 by Abdallah Ibn El Habhab. It was rebuilt by Ibrahim Ibn El Aghlab in the 9th century and listed as an historic building in 1912.  

 

 

 

Tunisian flag and a government building
 

 

 

St. Vincent de Paul Cathedral 

 

Today, there are about 30,700 Catholics living in Tunisia, a predominantly Islamic country, and St. Vincent de Paul is the only active Catholic church. It is located on what used to be called the Avenue de France where the French constructed other European-style buildings during the colonial period. The Cathedral was completed in 1897, as was Saint Louis Church in Carthage, which is no longer functioning. The Cathedral's domes atop its two towers look amazingly like the Sacré Cœur dome of Paris, which was built around the same time. 

Catholic influence during the colonial period also included extensive missionary work by the French Primate of Africa, Cardinal Lavigerie (1825-1892). The cathedral in his time was the church of Saint Louis in Carthage, which was also built in the 19th century. It later switched to St. Vincent DePaul Church.

 

From the late 19th century until after World War II, Tunisia was home to large populations of Christians with French, Italian and Maltese descent. (There were 255,000 Europeans living in Tunisia in 1956 out of a population 4 million.) The number of Catholics declined following Tunisian independence. Most people today are Muslims. Likewise, ownership of many Catholic buildings, including the Saint Louis Cathedral, was transferred to the state under a modus vivendi reached between the Holy See and the Republic of Tunisia.

 

 

 The nave of the Cathedral and close-ups of the altar and sanctuary dome.

                                        

Traditional confessional and a modern version

 

 

 

Along the wall behind the sanctuary were several featured pieces that illustrate Tunisia's historical connections to the Christian Church.

 

Saint Augustine, the bishop of Hippo, Algeria, was born in Algeria on November 13, 354 to a Christian mother and a pagan father who converted at the end of his life. He studied in Madauros, Algeria, and then in Carthage. He became a professor in Carthage, Rome, and Milan. After a profligate life in his youth, he converted to Christianity in 386 and was baptized in Milan on April 24, 387. He was ordained a priest in 392 in Hippo and later became a bishop there. He made lasting contributions with his books The Confessions and The City of God. His letters that he kept with him until his death reveal how his soul rested totally with God. Among the doctors of the Church, Saint Augustine is regarded the most profound and enduring in influence.

This cross is named the "Cross of Sbeïtla" because it was found in a Christian basilica there. Given this mosaic's form, liveliness, and colors this cross was probably made during the Byzantine era, which would date it around the 6th century.

Saint Louis IX of France died in Tunis on August 25, 1270, during an epidemic of dysentery that swept through his army. He was en route from the Eighth Crusade in Jerusalem. He is the only French king who was canonized. He reputedly brought back the "Crown of Thorns" from the Holy Land and the Black Madonna while passing through Egypt. After his death, his heart and intestines were conveyed for burial in the Cathedral of Monreale near Palermo. Besides this reliquary in Tunis, there is also a reliquary of his remains at the Basilica of Saint Dominic, Bologna, Italy.

 

Saint Cyprian was born in Carthage in 210 to a rich pagan family. He was baptized in 245 and later became a bishop during the siege of Carthage. He was exiled in 257 and decapitated on September 14, 258, in the presence of his clergy and the faithful. Several sanctuaries in Carthage were dedicated to him because he was one of the most dignified bishops in the African Church as well as one of its greatest writers. His chief work includes correspondence that revealed his soul as an apostle and martyr. He is also known as holding an important conference in 256 for 80 bishops of Africa. As bishop, he is known for his profound spirituality, which was inspired by the Scriptures and for his writings that showed his incontestable literary talent.

 

 

Saint Gélase was born in Rome to a Tunisian family that had Berber roots. He was pope from 492-495. He contributed much during his time in office and reputedly declared to the Church the importance of helping the poor and being humble and charitable. His reign was also marked by fighting against many heresies, the schism with the Eastern Church, and the invasions of the barbarians into the Roman Empire. He was the first pope to be designated the Vicar of Jesus Christ. He also made remarkable contributions to the rapport between the Church and State as well as the concept of the papacy. 

 

 

Dinner

We had our Welcome Dinner at Dar El Jeld, which is in the medina. The building was formerly a palace of a Tunisian leader. 

 

The door has three knockers that each have a different sound so those inside know what kind of visitor to expect. The one on the left is for men. The one on the upper right is for women. The lower right knocker is for children.

 

The servers wore Tunisian costumes: red vest, tan baggy pants, white shirt. Their service was excellent, and the food was tasty. They helped transport us into Tunisian culture, a perfect way to begin our travels here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is our group in one of the small private rooms. Anas, our guide, is at the head of the table. We had a couple choices for our main dish. One of the choices was grouper, which I chose. The last time I ate this fish I was with my Aunt Frances in Florida. She was the one who introduced me to the idea of world travel, and here I was in Tunisia! 

 

The salad was already on the table as was a side dish of two buns where one was plain and the other had anise. Desert included fruit and small sweets. Portions were modest but filling, especially with couscous.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The restaurant is beautifully decorated. Some rooms had high ceilings. Smaller rooms allowed people a more intimate and quieter atmosphere. Even the table tops (lower right) were decorated!

 

 

 

 

 

We left the restaurant in the dark and had an opportunity to see Tunis at night. Below is the alley leading from the Dar El Jeld Restaurant. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These two streets near the restaurant were irresistible photo ops.

 

 

 

The Mosque at night is magnificent!

 

 

After we arrived at the hotel, I stopped at the little grocery store next door to buy a giant-size bottle of water. It only cost 9 dinars or 90 cents. We are not able to drink the tap water or brush our teeth with it, so bottled water is a must. We also were asked to toss toilet tissue into the waste basket instead of the toilet. Some minor things to get used to while we're here in Tunisia.