This article appeared in the Huffington Post on Saturday, July 7

Our annual pilgrimage to the Stratford Shakespeare Festival stimulated the thought once again about what it’s like to be in a community that devotes itself to beauty.  That beauty matters in a town of Stratford’s size and geography is not only unusual these days, but it summons a reflection about what beauty entails and why it is important for our lives.

Beauty is about having a sense of place.

Stratford, population 30,000, is located in the southern Ontario 90 miles west of the Toronto metropolis.  It sits in the heart of the agricultural belt where farms raise corn, squash, melons, pumpkins, strawberries and pork while industries make products in advanced manufacturing, aerospace, automotive, high tech and financial services.  This strong economic base helps support the Festival and the farms that dot Route 7 thus making the drive there pleasant and picturesque.

 

The Festival has utilized the town’s name as a replica of the original theatre of Stratford on Avon in England.  For 60 years it has offered not only the very best in repertory theatre (including Shakespearean classics, American Broadway musicals, French and British farces, ancient Greek tragedies and native Canadian plays), but the very finest in art, cuisine, gardening and architecture. 

A touch of English haute couture pervades the town partly because of Canada’s historical alliance with England but also because of the number of British Isles nationals who have migrated there.  Locals are low-key, unpretentious and anxious to share their town and its amenities with visitors who soon discover that they are appreciated for their company and interest in art and culture and not just for the money they spend.  In this way, theatre-goers become an integral part of the Stratford community, and look forward to annual return visits during the April to November season. 

Beauty is also about enhancing the interplay between the natural world and the urban environment.

Because Stratford is small, it is easy to get around town by walking.  This factor allows visitors to see and appreciate the clean, flower-lined streets, tidy shops and vibrant neighborhoods firsthand. 

The townspeople have also taken full advantage of the Avon River, which provides a natural setting for leisurely strolls amid the old, leafy trees that line the shore or a paddleboat or pontoon ride on the calm waters.  Visitors mingle among young parents out with their babies, youngsters riding their bikes to soccer practice, and retirees with their grandchildren feeding the ducks, geese, gulls and swans with corn seed, not bread!    

A fanciful, little, wooden bridge connects the mainland to an island in the middle of the river where a modest but reverent plaque to the Festival’s founder, Tom Patterson, has been placed.  

Upriver is the Gallery Stratford, an architecturally quaint building that formerly served as the city’s water pump station.  This small gallery usually features one exhibit on contemporary art and the other on Stratford theatre art.  Outside the gallery is yet another display of the city’s bountiful flowerbeds and a rock garden with a gurgling waterfall surrounded by tall, fragrant pine trees. 

On the way back downtown a walk through the town’s neighborhoods presents a variety of vintage red and yellow brick houses with manicured lawns and lovely wildflower gardens.

The downtown commercial district offers all the cultural accoutrements a visitor could imagine:  oriental rugs, books, china, antiques, Inuit art, Scottish-ware, Canadian winter-proof clothes, restaurants, pubs, pastry shops, cafés, a chocolatier, juice bars and gift shops.  Incidentally, all of these shops are locally-owned and managed so the money stays in town.

Beauty is about paying attention to details. 

The Festival’s fashion artists research and design the actors’ elaborate costumes for historical integrity while a full-time wardrobe staff custom fits each actor’s outfit by hand.  Master craftsmen carefully construct every table, bowl of fruit, spear, and wagon.  Shoemakers cobble all footwear with “mufflers” on the soles to minimize unwanted sounds on the stage.  Choreographers carefully plan battle scenes while musicians compose and perform original works with period instruments. 

These preparations augment the work of the actors who move across the stage with the poise and grace as they masterfully portray their characters.  This repertory theatre emphasizes acting and staging rather than the usual diet of special effects. 

 Restaurants throughout town offer a variety of specialties and price ranges, however, the gourmet venue available in Stratford is particularly spectacular.  Taste, quality and presentation abound in each exquisite dish.  There’s even a gourmet French fries shop!  Stratford’s secret is its Chefs School where many local restaurateurs teach and then practice what they preach in their own establishments. 

Beauty is about hospitality and good conversation.

Stratford accommodations include hotels and motels in and around town as well as cottages and campgrounds.  However, a stay at a bed & breakfast provides a unique experience. 

Stratford has become a magnet for retired Canadians who buy an old Edwardian or Queen Anne house, restore it, and rent out rooms for theatre guests.  B&B hosts are warm and welcoming and visitors often make repeat stays.  Over the years both host and visitor get to know each other and spend time catching up on the year’s events.  Of course, B&Bs also offer visitors enriching conversations with their fellow travelers about the plays and restaurants, and for those interested in politics, an opportunity to compare notes between Canadians and Americans—and other Americans.

Beauty is about leisure.

Taking time away from the regular work and home routine is a state of mind that enables individuals to do the things they like to do without guilt or fear.  Leisure also tends to have a slowing down effect that allows one to be comfortable spending time alone or with another.  As a result, visitors at Stratford can easily indulge themselves in contemplation and quiet reflection without the noisy distractions of modern life. 

Finally, beauty is about feeling safe. 

In this post-9/11 era where security is tantamount to breathing, it soon becomes apparent in Stratford that anyone can walk down the street at any time of the day or night without the fear of being attacked or surveiled.  For Americans, such a feeling is a refreshing luxury and becoming almost a forgotten memory.

All of these elements work together to illustrate that beauty DOES make a difference in people’s lives even if it only entails a visit to a special place like Stratford.  We need such reminders.  Even more, we need to bring such examples of good living to our own cities and towns so that we can have them to ourselves all year long!

Information about the Stratford Festival is available at http://www.stratfordfestival.ca/. 

 

A bentonite hill, which is made up of ash layers from ancient volcanoes
 at Capitol Reef National Park

all photos by Olga Bonfiglio except those marked

This article appeared in the Huffington Post on Tuesday, May 1

Utah is no place for the faint of heart whether plant, animal, or human.  In this land of weathered rock amid sagebrush, yucca, cactus, juniper, cottonwoods and pinyon pine, travelers gain a new appreciation for wind and water’s role in shaping the landscape.

The majestic landforms of the Colorado Plateau will set your imagination on fire—along with the 100-degree dry heat—in Zion, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef National Parks. 

These parks offer visitors an uncanny beauty and an experience of nature’s “sculptures” that result from tremendous geological changes dating back 2 billion years ago—and counting.  

Rivers, seas and desert winds have shaped this land and you can witness the different geological eras at the canyons’ and cliffs’ outcroppings. 

The Colorado Plateau is a 130,000 square-mile swath covering the intersection of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona.  Sixty-five million years ago the region experienced uplift, tilting, and erosion of rock layers to form the Grand Staircase, a series of colorful cliffs stretching from the Grand Canyon to Bryce Canyon and including the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef.

But the landscape of the parks and surrounding areas, which are not crowded at all, will look familiar.  Of course, this was the land of the cowboys that you saw in the movies.  Walk on the land and you hear and feel the crunch of the scrubby plants underfoot, endless dust, the winding paths around the sweet-smelling sagebrush and haunting rock formations that used to be good hiding places for outlaws. 

But the desolation and silence of the desert also allow you to witness its majesty and enchantment as well as to feel an eerie connection to the Western pioneers, Native Americans, and prehistoric peoples who once settled or traversed this land.  It’s really much the same as they saw it.

The national parks in southern Utah preserve this natural landscape for you and millions of visitors, as they have been doing for about 100 years.

Zion National Park
 

Observation Point -- photo by Zion National Park

The area that became Zion National Park was largely ignored until 1908 when Leo A. Snow, a U.S. deputy surveyor from St. George, Utah, did a general land survey and suggested that the land here be set aside and preserved as a sanctuary for wildlife and natural and cultural resources found nowhere else on earth.  In 1919 Zion became a national park with the Kolob section added in 1937. 

This place got its name, meaning “place of refuge,” from Mormon pioneers who sought sanctuary after being kicked out of Illinois, Ohio and Missouri because of their “strange” religious beliefs.  The Children of Israel are an “Old Testament people,” says author Wallace Stegner, “inheritors of the blessings of the tribe of Joseph.”  Inspired by their prophet, Joseph Smith, and led by Brigham Young in 1846, they moved and settled in this “land that nobody wanted.”

Zion National Park

The biblical names in the park reflect the Mormon influence:  Court of the Patriarchs, the grotto at Angels Landing, Watchman Trail, Mt. Carmel Highway.  But whatever your religion, you’ll marvel at the wondrously high cliffs and deep valleys which have been cut by the slow-moving Virgin River—and God’s hand in nature. 

A single road through Zion’s canyons takes you on numerous switchbacks and a long dark tunnel through a mountain.  You’ll see yellow, red, white and green striped mesas (flat-topped mountain tops), long fingered rock formations, summits, and cathedrals.  Slickrock, huge blocks of smooth-surfaced, flat sedimentary rock (sandstone, mudstone, and siltstone), comprises the high cliffs and deliciously cool overhangs that shield you from the hot sun.  This rock is so soft you can rub it off with your finger.  Large, weather-beaten boulders will tickle your imagination into seeing animal and human shapes. 

Zion National Park

Indeed, human habitation on the Colorado Plateau has been sparse.  The earliest records of human life go back 10,000 years when the Paleo-Archaic Indians roamed this land.  The Anasazi People, the first permanent settlers here 2,000 years ago, lived in small, scattered farmsteads but left around 1300.  The land was not occupied until the Paiute People came 800 years ago.  On July 24, 1847, Brigham Young and the Mormons arrived

To get an overview of the park, take the road leading through it or the free shuttle that takes visitors on a 90-minute scenic tour stopping at trailheads, the Museum of Human History, Zion Lodge.  The shuttle goes in some places where cars may not go.

Bryce Canyon National Park 

Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon

In mountainous areas you generally look up at the scenery.  At Bryce Canyon, you look down—at the hoodoos, those pillars of rock that look like whimsical earthen obelisks. 

Sculpted by wind and nightly freezing desert temperatures, the hoodoos got their name from Native American lore where the coyote turned the evil people to stone.  The “painted” pink, white and red (iron), purple (manganese), and white (limestone) “faces” serve as evidence of the myth.

Hoodoo of Queen Victoria on the Queen's Way

Geologists say that 10 million years ago forces within the earth created and then moved the Table Cliffs and Papunsaugunt Plateaus.  Ancient rivers carved the colorful Claron limestones, sandstones and mudstones into thousands of spires, fins, pinnacles and mazes, and exposed the edges of these blocks creating the Paria Valley. 

Walk the Queen’s Way and you instantly get an idea of how the eroding winds work as you cover you eyes and close your mouth to protect yourself against the swirling airborne sandstone. 

Get tickets for a horse or mule ride through the canyon at the park’s lodge or two-hour or half-day tours through the various levels of the canyon floor and among these giant sand castles. 

I only stopped at Bryce Canyon on the way from Zion to Torrey, but you will want to spend more time at this incredible showcase.

Grand Staircase/Escalante

If you haven’t already gotten a sense of gigantism in southern Utah, you will if you take the blue highways from Zion to Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef National Park.  Around the town of Escalante, this 200-mile trek winds through country that either looks like the Flintstone’s village or a huge rock garden. 

Boulders mix sparingly with vegetation and the mesas resemble altars to the gods.  You’ll suddenly notice that there are few traces of humanity in these parts except for a single power line or the road you’re driving.  You’ll feel humbled by your own smallness amid these open and desolate spaces and realize that Western-style individualism has been greatly mythologized.  No one could have survived these lands unless they worked together, which is what the Mormons did. 

Grand Staircase -- Escalante

Construction engineers who built these winding roads over immense expanses of sedimentary rock, must have marveled at these mountainous scenes, too.  (Some roads climb 300 feet at 6- to 8-degree grades.)  They have left a few scenic turnouts for travelers to stop and gaze at the yellow rock that looks like a moonscape with trees and sagebrush.

Huge stone piled onto stone offers a vista of endless scenery, one view more beautiful and more magnificent than the other.  Halfway to Torrey, you’ll see what look like gray beehives.  No, these landforms are not the origin of the state’s nickname, the symbol of the industrious Mormons.  These landforms are part of the Grand Staircase/Escalante, named after Fray Silvestre Velez de Escalante, a Spanish priest who accompanied Fray Francisco Atanasia Dominguez.  They traversed southwestern Utah in 1776 searching for a passable trail to Monterey, California. 

Grand Staircase -- Escalante

Drive further north and you see one more surprise:  Dixie National Forest.  This area features unusual green vegetation nestled among the yellow rock mountains.  You’ll see ranches with wire fences for cows and horses as well as signs for uniquely Western-style names:  Hell’s Backbone, Salt Gulch, Circle Cliffs, and Burr Trail. 

Nearing the 9,400-foot summit, you pass pine, spruce, Douglas fir and aspen trees and get an overview of the “staircase.”  So much greenery after all that rocky wilderness even inspires a few bicyclists to brave the steep heights.

Capitol Reef National Park

"Dome" formations look like U.S. Capitol Building -- photo by Planetware

Capitol Reef allows you to interact with millions of years of geologic history and thousands of years of human history at the same time. 

The 100-mile long Waterpocket Fold formed when the Pacific Ocean plate bumped into the North American continent about 65 million years ago and created the Rocky Mountains.  About 200 million years ago, the ocean layed down red and later gray sediments. 

Other remnants of geologic activity are the black boulders scattered over the land 20 to 30 million years ago.  They came from the lava flows of the volcanic Boulder Mountain 50 miles away.  Glaciers later eroded them. 

Round holes of many sizes line the rock walls.  This “honeycomb weathering” formed by the circular motion of tidal flats, sometimes gouged out caves due to the uneven density of the rock. 

The park features layered multi-hued cliffs, soaring spires, twisting canyons, graceful arches and stark monoliths that inspired the Native Americans to call this area the “Land of the Sleeping Rainbow.”  The white sandstone domes (prehistoric sand dunes) resemble the dome of the Capitol Building in Washington.  Hence, the park’s name

Temple of the Moon (L) and the Sun (R) in Cathedral Valley of Capitol Reef

The geologic history of Capitol Reef provides an unforgettable experience of the land.  However, to gather the unique spiritual quality of this place, take the unpaved road to Cathedral Valley where you’ll find the Temples of the Sun and Moon.  These stately, stone monoliths give you a feeling of permanence in much the same way cathedrals do in a city.  Their awesome power amid the dense quiet of the desert puts you in an altered state of mind as you gaze on the dry and dusty world around you.  The bumpy road to get there allows you to move only 20 miles an hour and requires a high-clearance or a four-wheel-drive vehicle.  Tours on the road are available in Torrey.

Dinosaurs once roamed this area and you can easily find traces of them in the gastropods scattered around the Morrison rock.  Gastroliths are smooth, round rocks the dinosaurs ingested and excreted much like the chickens do with their gizzard stones. 

You will find Devil’s toenails, too, which provide more evidence of the ocean that once covered the land.  The “toenails” are petrified seashells much like fossils only without the rock around them.  However, park rangers ask that souvenir hunters pick up these geological gems only outside the park.  And there’s plenty of them.

Pictographs at Capitol Reef National Park

One exciting link to the human history at Capitol Reef is through the petroglyphs (etched) and the pictographs (painted) on canyon walls.  They give you a glimpse of the Fremont People who lived here from 700 to 1250 A.D.  Their mainstay was bighorn sheep, which they proudly displayed with trapezoid-like images of themselves.  The park provides free interpretive tours of this ancient artwork but make friends with the locals who can take you to see other groups of them outside the park.

“Hobbit Land” is another place outside the park that the locals can show you.  In sight of Boulder Mountain, the largest flat-topped mountain in the United States, these globular red rocks are good for climbing for experts and novices alike.  Moving about them invites you to “commune” with the land by becoming a part of it—literally.  Wear your old clothes, though, when you climb these rocks.  The soft Entrada sandstone that rubs off on you is impossible to remove.

Capitol Reef also features a look into the Mormon culture that was established in 1879 along the Fremont River (also called the Dirty Devil).  First known as Junction and nicknamed “the Eden of Wayne County,” the Fruita settlement flourished through irrigation of sorghum (for syrup and molasses), vegetables and alfalfa.  The orchards which were famous a hundred years ago still stand today with a variety of apples, apricots, peaches, pears, plums, English and black walnuts and almonds.  Eight to 10 large families sustained this community until the late 1960s when the Park Service purchased Fruita property.   

Travelers can visit Fruita’s one-room schoolhouse, which also served as a town hall and church from 1884 until 1941.  In 1900 the public schools adopted the building until it closed in 1941 due to lack of students. 

If you go:

You can best get to Utah’s national parks by flying to Las Vegas or Salt Lake City and renting a car. 

Warning:  Drink a lot of water, bring sun block and wear a hat.  There is little cloud cover in Utah, which provides protection from the hot sun.  The mornings and evenings are cool enough for a light jacket.

 

Atop Independence Monument for the annual July 4th climb at Colorado National Monument in Grand Junction
Photo courtesy of the National Park Service

 

This article appeared in the Huffington Post on Wednesday, July 11

It’s rare to have a national monument in your backyard, but that’s what my hosts in Grand Junction say they have, and they love it.

The 32-square mile Colorado National Monument sits on a ridge at 2,000 feet on the southwest side of Grand Valley in Mesa County where the towns of Grand Junction, Fruita and Palisade lie on the Western Slope. 

This wide semi-desert expanse of the Colorado Plateau with its pinyon pines and junipers, bighorn sheep, golden eagles, ravens, jays, coyotes, mountain lion and collared lizards, was dedicated in 1911 by President Howard Taft because of its “extraordinary examples of erosion.”  What has been left after millions of years are exposures of colorful, gently-dipping sediments that have been differentially eroded to form high plateaus, bold escarpments, and deep canyons. 

“It is like a magical kingdom,” said my friend, Bobbie Hutchison.

“It’s great for hiking and biking,” said her spouse, Martin Stafford, who pointed out several trails he had already taken over the past six years since the couple moved to “the Junction” from Michigan. 

I had never heard of the Colorado National Monument, yet I instantly recognized Independence Monument, the park’s most famous and tallest free-standing monolith featured in the Chevrolet commercial where an SUV is helicoptered to the top of the 450-foot sandstone structure.

John Otto sculpture at the Visitor Center

Each year the National Park Service (NPS) celebrates the Fourth of July with a climb to the top of Independence Monument to raise the American flag.  This tradition began 101 years ago by the legendary John Otto (1870-1952) who dedicated 20 years of his life lobbying to designate the red canyons and the Grand Mesa, the largest in the world, as a national park.

Like Otto and my friends, I was also captivated by the Monument’s beauty.  Each rock formation is different and they all left me with open-mouthed awe at both the time and relentless energy it took water, ice, wind, summer thunderstorms and heat to build the colorful spires, domes, and steep canyon walls. 

The Monument is truly a miraculous sight to behold, and the NPS does an excellent job of welcoming, inspiring and educating visitors—Americans and internationals alike—to continue their support for these protected lands. 

The spectacular landscape is a gaze downward thanks to the 23-mile-long Rim Rock Drive with its 19 scenic overlooks and two tunnels.  Construction on the road began in 1931 and was completed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), the Works Progress Administration (WPA) and Local Experienced Men. 

Because the Monument was so remote, the roadway greatly helped increase attendance from 20,000 in 1937 to 430,000 today.  The first roadway, the Serpent’s Trail, was built by John Otto between 1912-24.  Its four miles included 52 switchbacks. 

Otto first came to this area in 1906 and after living here for a year, he wrote:

“I came here last year and found these canyons, and they feel like the heart of the world to me. I'm going to stay and build trails and promote this place, because it should be a national park.”

Otto starts a tradition a July 4th at "Independence"

He worked tirelessly with the communities of Grand Junction and Fruita to protect the land by spearheading fundraising campaigns, collecting signatures for petitions, and penning newspaper editorials and endless letters to Washington politicians. He also conducted tours of the area, built the first trails and chiseled handholds for climbing the Wingate sandstone walls.  He climbed and named various monoliths and planted the American Flag from their highest vantage points.

Otto even held his marriage to Boston artist Beatrice Farnham at the base of Independence Monument.  However, his fervor, and some would say his insanity in pursuing his vision, short-circuited that relationship after only a few weeks.

“I tried hard to live his way,” said Farnham. “but I could not do it, I could not live with a man to whom even a cabin was an encumbrance.”

Otto’s passion to preserve the wilderness lands of the Monument was focused on availing other people to “see this scenery.”  In this he could not help himself—and we are the lucky ones for it!

Otto lived during the conservationist era of John Muir (1838-1914), another fervent naturalist who promoted and inspired others to set aside certain natural lands for people to enjoy in perpetuity.  Through his writings, Muir, son of an itinerant Presbyterian minister, articulated the spiritual connection to nature and believed that mankind is just one part of an interconnected natural world, not its master.  God, he believed, was revealed through nature. 

To preach his “gospel of nature” Muir championed the establishment of the national parks through the Theodore Roosevelt administration, which according to filmmaker Ken Burns, was “America’s Best Idea.”

It was obvious to me that the Colorado National Monument fits Muir’s conception of the spiritual in Nature.  History bears this out as well.  The Ute who inhabited these lands since 1500 concocted myths and legends about the Mesa, the most popular being that of the Thunderbird and the Serpent.  A hieroglyph is highlighted by snow in winter on Craig’s Crest, the north edge of the Grand Mesa above the town of Palisade.  The white shale makes it visible in summer.

According to one account, the Ute believed that great Thunderbirds ruled the skies and lived atop the Grand Mesa. One day the great birds attacked the Ute village and carried children to their nest on the Mesa’s edge. The fiercest warrior disguised himself as a tree and climbed the Mesa to get to the nest, but he discovered that the children had been eaten. In vengeance, the warrior threw the Thunderbird eggs over the Mesa's edge to the valley below.

The Thunderbirds returned to find an empty nest and that their offspring had been swallowed by a giant serpent in the valley (presumably the Colorado River). The great birds screeched down and clinched the giant serpent with their huge talons and lifted it high over the Grand Mesa. In a raging storm the birds ripped the serpent apart hurling electrified pieces to the forest below, thus creating the huge scars on the Mesa's previously smooth flat top. The storm raged and the gouges were filled with sorrowful tears from the birds' loss of their offspring, which formed the many lakes of the Grand Mesa.

One of the Ute names for the Grand Mesa roughly translates to “Land of the Departed Spirits.”  The Ute ritually suspended their honored dead high in the trees for their spirits to be carried by wind into the Spirit World that exists on the Mesa. It is said that there are two strange winds that blow across the Mesa’s crest:  one is the Thunderbirds screeching for their lost young, and the other is the Ute warrior calling for his children.

Today, Otto's dream to make these lands a national park has taken another turn—and it has gained national attention.  Some community residents want to upgrade the park from a national monument to national park status.

A national monument is a protected area that either the President of the United States can establish by executive order or the United States Congress can by legislation. The Antiquities Act of 1906 authorizes the president to proclaim “historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric structures, and other objects of historic or scientific interest” as national monuments. 

An upgraded national park designation needs congressional approval to take effect.  Currently, there are 101 national monuments and 58 national parks. 

To explore the possibility of this change, last June U.S. Senator Mark Udall and U.S. Representative Scott Tipton, both of Colorado, appointed the Colorado National Monument/Park Study Committee, a 16-member state-funded research group.

The committee found the that the Monument meets the criteria for national park designation, but that 40 percent of residents want national park status, 40 percent are against it, and 20 percent just don't care, according to a recent story in the Grand Junction Free Press. 

Some people see the upgrade as an opportunity to enhance economic development in the area, and they are supported by many chambers of commerce who contend that “national park” status carries much more cachet when it comes to tourists.  

Other people are more worried about traffic congestion, access issues, water rights, air quality standards and more unwanted entanglement with the federal government should the upgrade take place. 

Time will tell what happens.  Meanwhile, life will go on at the Monument, especially since it is already part of the NPS system.

Biking, camping, hiking (short trails and back country trails), rock climbing, picnicking are available to those who want to spend a day or more.  Guided walks and porch talks are offered daily throughout the summer.  Topics include geology, ecology and history.  For more information, contact the Visitor Center:  

For more information on the geology of the area, see NPSGeology Fieldnotes.

Shapes 
Erosion produces unusual shapes on the landscape and can lead the imagination to see more familiar images.  Here are the more prominent places in the Monument that have been given names.

“Praying Hands” (center) is a vertical sandstone fin resembling praying hands overlooking Columbus Canyon.  The “Pipe Organ” is the formation on the right.

“The "Coke Ovens” (formerly called “Haystacks” by Otto) were named by the CCC in the 1930s.  They represent an urban, industrial perspective while Otto saw them from an agricultural perspective.  As the protective Kayenta Formation (on top) erodes from the ridge, the softer Wingate Formation beneath it is exposed.  

 

Each year the Colorado National Monument commemorates the Fourth of July by raising the American flag on the top of "Independence Monument," the tallest free-standing rock formation in the park. This tradition was started 101 years ago by the legendary John Otto. Mesa County's Technical Search and Rescue Team continues this tradition.

Another view of the Independence Monument

 

“Window Rock” (formerly named “Needle’s Eye” by Otto) is a natural widening crack in the Wingate sandstone formed by pounding erosive forces.  The formation stands on a ledge of Kayenta Sandstone, a more resistant form of this sedimentary rock.

Colors and Features

The browns, yellows, blues and greens in the rocks are minerals found in the clay mudstones.  Reds come from clear quartz grains that come from a thin coating of iron oxide on each grain.  In some areas percolating water has dissolved the coating leaving the sandstone pale and bleached.  Lichens are composite organisms made up of  fungi and cyanobacteria (green algae) living symbiotically.  The fungi partner spreads across the rock thus providing a stable, moist environment for the cyanobacteria (sigh-AN-oh bacteria), which then produces nutrients through photosynthesis.

The dark brown “desert varnish” comes from a thin coating of concentrated iron and manganese compounds and clays that color rock surfaces over thousands of years.  Long black streaks in the rock occur as dissolved chemicals carried in the water seep over the rock.  White coloration comes from the groundwater that deposits calcite.










 
 Potholes are naturally occurring basins in sandstone that collect rainwater and wind-blown sediment. These potholes harbor organisms that are able to survive long periods of dehydration.  They also serve as a breeding ground for many high desert amphibians and insects.  Both of these communities are very vulnerable to human impacts. (http://www.nps.gov/colm/naturescience/naturalfeaturesandecosystems.htm)

The bumpy, knobby, and sometimes dark soil along the trails is biological soil crust. Just like a coral reef is formed over time by lots of small organisms living together, soil crust is formed the same way. Moss, lichen, green algae, cyanobacteria (sigh-AN-oh bacteria), and microfungi all work together to hold sand grains in place and create an environment where seeds can grow. Biological soil crust is extremely slow growing; a footprint can erase decades of growth. Visitors are asked to help protect biological soil crust by staying on established trails. 

Atop Independence Monument for the annual July 4th climb at Colorado National Monument in Grand Junction
Photo courtesy of the National Park Service

Southern Utah, Home of Spectacular National Parks

A bentonite hill, which is made up of ash layers from ancient volcanoes
 at Capitol Reef National Park

all photos by Olga Bonfiglio except those marked

This article appeared in the Huffington Post on Tuesday, May 1

Utah is no place for the faint of heart whether plant, animal, or human.  In this land of weathered rock amid sagebrush, yucca, cactus, juniper, cottonwoods and pinyon pine, travelers gain a new appreciation for wind and water’s role in shaping the landscape.

The majestic landforms of the Colorado Plateau will set your imagination on fire—along with the 100-degree dry heat—in Zion, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef National Parks. 

These parks offer visitors an uncanny beauty and an experience of nature’s “sculptures” that result from tremendous geological changes dating back 2 billion years ago—and counting.  

Rivers, seas and desert winds have shaped this land and you can witness the different geological eras at the canyons’ and cliffs’ outcroppings. 

The Colorado Plateau is a 130,000 square-mile swath covering the intersection of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona.  Sixty-five million years ago the region experienced uplift, tilting, and erosion of rock layers to form the Grand Staircase, a series of colorful cliffs stretching from the Grand Canyon to Bryce Canyon and including the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef.

The landscape of the parks and surrounding areas, which are not crowded at all, will look familiar.  Of course, this was the land of the cowboys that you saw in the movies.  Walk on the land and you hear and feel the crunch of the scrubby plants underfoot, endless dust, the winding paths around the sweet-smelling sagebrush and haunting rock formations that used to be good hiding places for outlaws. 

The desolation and silence of the desert also allow you to witness its majesty and enchantment as well as to feel an eerie connection to the Western pioneers, Native Americans, and prehistoric peoples who once settled or traversed this land.  It’s really much the same as they saw it.

The national parks in southern Utah preserve this natural landscape for you and millions of visitors, as they have been doing for about 100 years.

Zion National Park
 

Observation Point -- photo by Zion National Park

The area that became Zion National Park was largely ignored until 1908 when Leo A. Snow, a U.S. deputy surveyor from St. George, Utah, did a general land survey and suggested that the land here be set aside and preserved as a sanctuary for wildlife and natural and cultural resources found nowhere else on earth.  In 1919 Zion became a national park with the Kolob section added in 1937. 

This place got its name, meaning “place of refuge,” from Mormon pioneers who sought sanctuary after being kicked out of Illinois, Ohio and Missouri because of their “strange” religious beliefs.  The Children of Israel are an “Old Testament people,” says author Wallace Stegner, “inheritors of the blessings of the tribe of Joseph.”  Inspired by their prophet, Joseph Smith, and led by Brigham Young in 1846, they moved and settled in this “land that nobody wanted.”

Zion National Park

The biblical names in the park reflect the Mormon influence:  Court of the Patriarchs, the grotto at Angels Landing, Watchman Trail, Mt. Carmel Highway.  But whatever your religion, you’ll marvel at the wondrously high cliffs and deep valleys which have been cut by the slow-moving Virgin River—and God’s hand in nature. 

A single road through Zion’s canyons takes you on numerous switchbacks and a long dark tunnel through a mountain.  You’ll see yellow, red, white and green striped mesas (flat-topped mountain tops), long fingered rock formations, summits, and cathedrals.

Slickrock, huge blocks of smooth-surfaced, flat sedimentary rock (sandstone, mudstone, and siltstone), comprises the high cliffs and deliciously cool overhangs that shield you from the hot sun.  This rock is so soft you can rub it off with your finger.  Large, weather-beaten boulders will tickle your imagination into seeing animal and human shapes. 

Zion National Park

Indeed, human habitation on the Colorado Plateau has been sparse.  The earliest records of human life go back 10,000 years when the Paleo-Archaic Indians roamed this land.  The Anasazi People, the first permanent settlers here 2,000 years ago, lived in small, scattered farmsteads but left around 1300.  The land was not occupied until the Paiute People came 800 years ago.  On July 24, 1847, Brigham Young and the Mormons arrived

To get an overview of the park, take the road leading through it or the free shuttle that takes visitors on a 90-minute scenic tour stopping at trailheads, the Museum of Human History, Zion Lodge.  The shuttle goes in some places where cars may not go.

Bryce Canyon National Park 

Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon

In mountainous areas you generally look up at the scenery.  At Bryce Canyon, you look down—at the hoodoos, those pillars of rock that look like whimsical earthen obelisks. 

Sculpted by wind and nightly freezing desert temperatures, the hoodoos got their name from Native American lore where the coyote turned the evil people to stone.  The “painted” pink, white and red (iron), purple (manganese), and white (limestone) “faces” serve as evidence of the myth.

Hoodoo of Queen Victoria on the Queen's Way

Geologists say that 10 million years ago forces within the earth created and then moved the Table Cliffs and Papunsaugunt Plateaus.  Ancient rivers carved the colorful Claron limestones, sandstones and mudstones into thousands of spires, fins, pinnacles and mazes, and exposed the edges of these blocks creating the Paria Valley. 

Walk the Queen’s Way and you instantly get an idea of how the eroding winds work as you cover you eyes and close your mouth to protect yourself against the swirling airborne sandstone. 

Get tickets for a horse or mule ride through the canyon at the park’s lodge or two-hour or half-day tours through the various levels of the canyon floor and among these giant sand castles. 

I only stopped at Bryce Canyon on the way from Zion to Torrey, but you will want to spend more time at this incredible showcase.

Grand Staircase/Escalante

If you haven’t already gotten a sense of gigantism in southern Utah, you will if you take the blue highways from Zion to Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef National Park.  Around the town of Escalante, this 200-mile trek winds through country that either looks like the Flintstone’s village or a huge rock garden. 

Boulders mix sparingly with vegetation and the mesas resemble altars to the gods.  You’ll suddenly notice that there are few traces of humanity in these parts except for a single power line or the road you’re driving.  You’ll feel humbled by your own smallness amid these open and desolate spaces and realize that Western-style individualism has been greatly mythologized.  No one could have survived these lands unless they worked together, which is what the Mormons did. 

Grand Staircase -- Escalante

Construction engineers who built these winding roads over immense expanses of sedimentary rock, must have marveled at these mountainous scenes, too.  (Some roads climb 300 feet at 6- to 8-degree grades.)  They have left a few scenic turnouts for travelers to stop and gaze at the yellow rock that looks like a moonscape with trees and sagebrush.

Huge stone piled onto stone offers a vista of endless scenery, one view more beautiful and more magnificent than the other.  Halfway to Torrey, you’ll see what look like gray beehives.  No, these landforms are not the origin of the state’s nickname, the symbol of the industrious Mormons.  These landforms are part of the Grand Staircase/Escalante, named after Fray Silvestre Velez de Escalante, a Spanish priest who accompanied Fray Francisco Atanasia Dominguez.  They traversed southwestern Utah in 1776 searching for a passable trail to Monterey, California. 

Grand Staircase -- Escalante

Drive further north and you see one more surprise:  Dixie National Forest.  This area features unusual green vegetation nestled among the yellow rock mountains.  You’ll see ranches with wire fences for cows and horses as well as signs for uniquely Western-style names:  Hell’s Backbone, Salt Gulch, Circle Cliffs, and Burr Trail. 

Nearing the 9,400-foot summit, you pass pine, spruce, Douglas fir and aspen trees and get an overview of the “staircase.”  So much greenery after all that rocky wilderness even inspires a few bicyclists to brave the steep heights.

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef allows you to interact with millions of years of geologic history and thousands of years of human history at the same time.

The 100-mile long Waterpocket Fold formed when the Pacific Ocean plate bumped into the North American continent about 65 million years ago and created the Rocky Mountains.  About 200 million years ago, the ocean layed down red and later gray sediments. 

Other remnants of geologic activity are the black boulders scattered over the land 20 to 30 million years ago.  They came from the lava flows of the volcanic Boulder Mountain 50 miles away.  Glaciers later eroded them. 

Round holes of many sizes line the rock walls.  This “honeycomb weathering” formed by the circular motion of tidal flats, sometimes gouged out caves due to the uneven density of the rock. 

The park features layered multi-hued cliffs, soaring spires, twisting canyons, graceful arches and stark monoliths that inspired the Native Americans to call this area the “Land of the Sleeping Rainbow.”  The white sandstone domes (prehistoric sand dunes) resemble the dome of the Capitol Building in Washington.  Hence, the park’s name.

Temple of the Moon (L) and the Sun (R) in Cathedral Valley of Capitol Reef

The geologic history of Capitol Reef provides an unforgettable experience of the land.  However, to gather the unique spiritual quality of this place, take the unpaved road to Cathedral Valley where you’ll find the Temples of the Sun and Moon.  These stately, stone monoliths give you a feeling of permanence in much the same way cathedrals do in a city.  Their awesome power amid the dense quiet of the desert puts you in an altered state of mind as you gaze on the dry and dusty world around you.  The bumpy road to get there allows you to move only 20 miles an hour and requires a high-clearance or a four-wheel-drive vehicle.  Tours on the road are available in Torrey.

Dinosaurs once roamed this area and you can easily find traces of them in the gastropods scattered around the Morrison rock.  Gastroliths are smooth, round rocks the dinosaurs ingested and excreted much like the chickens do with their gizzard stones. 

You will find Devil’s toenails, too, which provide more evidence of the ocean that once covered the land.  The “toenails” are petrified seashells much like fossils only without the rock around them.  However, park rangers ask that souvenir hunters pick up these geological gems only outside the park.  And there’s plenty of them.

Pictographs at Capitol Reef National Park

One exciting link to the human history at Capitol Reef is through the petroglyphs (etched) and the pictographs (painted) on canyon walls.  They give you a glimpse of the Fremont People who lived here from 700 to 1250 A.D.  Their mainstay was bighorn sheep, which they proudly displayed with trapezoid-like images of themselves.  The park provides free interpretive tours of this ancient artwork but make friends with the locals who can take you to see other groups of them outside the park.

“Hobbit Land” is another place outside the park that the locals can show you.  In sight of Boulder Mountain, the largest flat-topped mountain in the United States, these globular red rocks are good for climbing for experts and novices alike.  Moving about them invites you to “commune” with the land by becoming a part of it—literally.  Wear your old clothes, though, when you climb these rocks.  The soft Entrada sandstone that rubs off on you is impossible to remove.

Capitol Reef also features a look into the Mormon culture that was established in 1879 along the Fremont River (also called the Dirty Devil).  First known as Junction and nicknamed “the Eden of Wayne County,” the Fruita settlement flourished through irrigation of sorghum (for syrup and molasses), vegetables and alfalfa.  The orchards which were famous a hundred years ago still stand today with a variety of apples, apricots, peaches, pears, plums, English and black walnuts and almonds.  Eight to 10 large families sustained this community until the late 1960s when the Park Service purchased Fruita property.   

Travelers can visit Fruita’s one-room schoolhouse, which also served as a town hall and church from 1884 until 1941.  In 1900 the public schools adopted the building until it closed in 1941 due to lack of students. 

If you go:

You can best get to Utah’s national parks by flying to Las Vegas or Salt Lake City and renting a car. 

Warning:  Drink a lot of water, bring sun block and wear a hat.  There is little cloud cover in Utah, which provides protection from the hot sun.  The mornings and evenings are cool enough for a light jacket.

Titanic Exhibit at Henry Ford Museum

Courtesy of Henry Ford Museum

This article appeared in the Huffington Post on Tuesday, April 17.

The Titanic has long held a prominent place in the human imagination and commemorations abound during this year’s 100^th anniversary of its sinking.

Among them is Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition hosted by the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan.  Similar exhibitions are also appearing in Atlanta, Houston, Kansas City, Las Vegas, Orlando and San Diego with upcoming shows scheduled in Columbia, SC, St. Petersburg, FL and Philadelphia.

The 10,000 square foot exhibition reflects the size and grandeur of the world’s largest and most luxurious ship of its time.  Room re-creations of a first class hallway and cabin as well as a full-scale replica of the Grand Staircase reveal the ship’s splendor while the passengers’ accommodations, menus, china, even the recovered tile floors of the bathrooms illustrate the attention given to social class distinctions in Edwardian England.

First Class Cabin -- Courtesy of Henry Ford Museum

“The ship is like a palace,” says Hugh Woolner, first class passenger in one of many quotes highlighted on the walls of the exhibit.  “My cabin is ripping.  Hot and cold water, very comfy-looking bed—and lots of room.”

The exhibit captures the human tragedy of the event by featuring small fragments of people’s lives with many of the objects probably handled shortly before the ship met its fate on Monday, April 15 at 2:20 a.m.

Third Class Cabin -- Courtesy of Henry Ford Museum

This includes chinaware (a cobalt blue border with interlocking gold trim for first class and plain, white with only the White Star Line insignia in the center for third class), sherry glasses (congratulating the Captain at a party), cut-glass butter dish (indicating second class rather than first class crystal), cooking pots tarnished from the sea one with food burned on it and the other with a hole burned through it.

Many personal items were found in leather suitcases including a brooch, star pendant, gold lapel pin, cuff link, gold filigree barrette, hair dye bottle, shoe brush, toothpaste jar, trousers and vest, shoes, postcards, letters, an arithmetic book, playing cards, silver mesh handbag, gold wristwatch, French francs, American greenbacks and coins, wire-rimmed glasses, Gillette razor, shaving brush, sock garters, mechanical pencil with eraser, pipe and tobacco pouch. 

Some objects were recovered from the ocean’s bottom:  bowler hat, mirror with faux ivory handle (plastic imitating luxury), perfectly stacked au gratin dishes (the wooden cabinet had rotted away), champagne bottles with some still corked with liquid inside.

Some artifacts come with stories.  First class passenger Adolphe Saalfeld, 47, a perfume maker from Manchester, England, lost 65 vials of perfume.  He was headed to America to market some new fragrances to department stores in New York and other major cities.  He survived but it would be decades before 62 of the vials were recovered from his Swiss-made leather suitcase—some with perfume and scents still in them. 

The exhibit does a good job of placing visitors in the mood and setting of Titanic through various techniques.  Its bright and colorful First Class area is accompanied by classical violin music until visitors move through to the crew’s quarters on E Deck (with bunk beds accommodating 50 men to a room) where they begin to feel the foreshadowing of the ship’s fate.  The space becomes dark with red safety lights as visitors pass through the mammoth watertight doors that separated Titanic’s 15 compartments.  The sound of pulsing engines gives way to the moans of the sea as the ship hits the iceberg and becomes engulfed in the ocean’s calm, icy waters. 

The doors were designed to close should any of the compartments fill with water thus giving the ship the reputation of being “practically unsinkable.”  The ship could have survived with two flooded compartments, but the iceberg cut six slits over 300 feet into the hull and filled five compartments, according to ship’s designer Thomas Andrews.

Young visitors instantly get the message.

“This is so creepy,” said one.  “You have to think about what happened to the ship.”

In the final section of the exhibit, visitors are treated to a simulation that explains how Titanic hit the iceberg, broke apart and sank to the bottom of the sea with debris strewn over an area of 15 square miles.  Another film illustrates how conservators decades later used the ROV to extract the artifacts. 

Many parts of the ship are on display including an angle iron (which visitors could touch), lifeboat davit cleat, ship’s whistle, telegraph and the stern’s docking bridge telephone stand.

A chunk of ice in the shape of an iceberg is also available for visitors to touch.

Passengers’ eyewitness descriptions of the ship hitting the iceberg and its aftermath make the event more real:

“CRASH!  Then a low rending crunching, ripping sound, as Titanic shivered a trifle and her engines gently ceased.”  (Violet Jessop, stewardess)

“Just a dull thump.” (George A. Harder, First Class passenger)

“Through the ship’s portholes we saw ice rubbing against the ship’s sides.” (Lawrence Beesley, Second Class passenger)

Memorial Wall -- Courtesy of Henry Ford Museum

At the end of the exhibit is a memorial wall with the names of individual passengers and crew on board Titanic’s maiden voyage.  This, too, elicits a more empathetic response to the tragedy as visitors check to see if the person whose passenger ticket they have been carrying since the onset of their tour survived or not. 

In first class, 201 passengers were saved and 123 lost.  In second class, 118 were saved and 166 lost.  In third class 183 were saved and 527 were lost.  Among the crew, 212 were saved and 698 were lost, including Captain Edward J. Smith.

Several recovered artifacts recall several ironic missteps that would later prove fatal:  the fractured compass bowl that set the ship on a new course of North 71 West (outside established traffic lanes) at 5:45 p.m. in an attempt to avoid ice by steering the ship further south. 

A barometer indicated perfect weather.

The forward masthead light sat in the crow’s nest to warn other passing ships of Titanic’s approach. 

A 60-pound lump of coal from the 6,000-ton load that was diverted from coal supplies of other ships due to a coal strike in England.  Titanic needed enough coal to feed its 157 furnaces that heated 29 boilers.  This single lump could move the ship 60 feet at full speed in 1.5 seconds.  Titanic was going at 21 knots, nearly top speed, when it hit the iceberg.  Many passengers originally scheduled for passage on other vessels were rebooked to cross the Atlantic Ocean on Titanic due to the coal strike.

Crow’s nest lookouts Frederick Fleet and Reginald Lee did not see the iceberg until it was too late and they did not have access to the ship’s only pair of binoculars.  Testimony at the British inquiry following the disaster revealed that it was common practice for only the chief officer, first officer or second officer to have binoculars while on duty and not for lookouts who would otherwise be distracted.  The binoculars were recovered and ominously on display.

The original plan of the ship ordered 32 lifeboats, enough for 1,900 people.  However, only 20 lifeboats, capable of accommodating 1,178 people, were on the ship.  This was done in order to cut costs and clutter. 

Only 714 people survived out of the 2,228 passengers and crew on board while 1,514 perished from hypothermia in the 28 degree waters of the North Atlantic Ocean.  Only two lifeboats were filled to capacity mostly due to the passengers’ reluctance to leave the ship because they believed it to be “practically unsinkable.”

Titanic’s resting place is located 400 nautical miles southeast of Newfoundland.  It lay quietly on a sandy seabed until it was discovered on Sunday, September 1, 1985 by Dr. RobertBallard, a former United States Navy officer and a professor of oceanography at the University of Rhode Island.  

Ballard originally planned to keep the location a secret to prevent treasure hunters from claiming prizes from the wreck. He considered the site a cemetery, and refused to desecrate it by removing artifacts.  Ballard is currently on a campaign to keep people from taking artifacts from the Titanic.  

However, RMS Titanic, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of PremierExhibitions, Inc. (Atlanta, GA), was granted Salvor-in-Possession rights to the Titanic wreck site by a United States federal court in 1994, which allows it to be the only company permitted to recover objects.  It has conducted seven research and recovery expeditions (1987, 1993, 1994, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2010) and recovered and conserved more than 5,500 artifacts.  

A dive to the wreck with remote operated vehicles (ROV) takes between 12 to 15 hours, including two-and-a-half hours to reach the ship and two-and-a-half hours to resurface. 

The bow as it looks today

Nearly all of the artifacts are tagged and stored in climate control environments.  That they have survived the passage of time as well as the trauma of settling below 12,500 feet of water at a pressure of 6,000 pounds per square inch is almost miraculous. 

Upon retrieval, each object is stabilized to prevent further degradation due to the sudden change in environment. 

The objects are being consumed by bacteria, abraded by sediments, and corroded by salt and acids.  “Rusticles” of bacteria and fungi cling to the ghost ship, which is also being consumed by iron-eating microbes that will collapse it onto itself in 40 to 90 years. 

The exhibit is dedicated to Millvina Dean, the last survivor of the Titanic who died at on May 31, 2009 at the age of 97.  She was a two-month-old baby when the ship went down and was saved in Lifeboat 10 with her mother and brother while her father was lost at sea.  Her brother, Bertram, died at age 82 on April 14, 1992, on the 80^th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic.

Tickets are $10 extra with admission to the Henry Ford Museum and the exhibit runs until September 30.  Adult admission is $17, seniors 62 or older is $15 and youth 5-12 years old is $12.50.  For further information, see the museum website.