Quick Trip to Old Marseille

Marseille had lured itself to me for some reason even though it had a reputation as a tough, dirty town full of gangs, drugs, and violence. I must admit that I was a little apprehensive about coming here even though I wanted to see it. After all, it is a famous seaport that sits on the Mediterranean Sea in  beautiful Provence, and it is the oldest and the second largest city in France. However, statistics, history, and geography couldn't compare to the meaningful experience my four-day trip to Marseille would bring. 

I breathed the clean sea air and instantly fell in love with it. I ate fresh and tasty food, much of it coming from the sea where all sorts of bizarre creatures live and are on display in street-side fish markets. I stayed in a "little Algerian souk" and overcame my fear of being in the midst of extreme  strangeness. I witnessed extraordinary examples of urban redevelopment and contemplated the value of multiculturalism in a city that has teemed with diversity for millennia. I enjoyed the hot sun and the ice-cold Coke drinks. I even discovered that my understanding of spoken French had vastly improved. 

I plan to return to Marseille for it is a city of many faces and dimensions with much to see and experience. Meanwhile, here is a brief tour of the city and what I learned about it.


The Panier District

This older part of the city goes back 2,600 years when the Greeks founded it as Massalia, a major trading post on the Mediterranean. In the 17th century, the district became a working class neighborhood. In the 19th century, as commerce and industrialization grew, all sorts of transient people moved in and the neighborhood developed a bad reputation.  

The Panier district has seen much modern development in the 21st century while it simultaneously keeps its heritage alive. Broken down buildings are being repaired and painted in ochre while remnants of old shop signs are restored. Residents brighten up the streets with potted plants in front of their houses in order to adorn the stone pavements and buildings. (Hanging plants can easily fall and break due to the heavy Mistral winds.) Craftsmen, potters, santon makers (ceramic figurines), and restauranteurs are opening up new places of business all the time.

Market stalls on a Wednesday morning

The city is trying to make Le Panier a safe and vibrant place. Outdoor markets like this one help.

InterContinental-Marseille

 The InterContinental Hotel was originally a hospital for the poor in the 18th century. It is now a luxury hotel. Rooms start at 150 euros.

The La Vieille Charité, an enormous complex in Le Panier, shows the city's commitment to redevelopment. Such projects--and many more--have helped Marseille to be named the Capital of Culture in 2013. (Oliver Wainwright of The Guardian explains how this happened.)


La Vieille Charité was meant to be an almshouse. It was designed in the Baroque style by architect Pierre Puget and constructed between 1671 and 1749.


Almshouses served as workhouses for the poor. Children were found jobs as domestic servants, cabin boys or apprentices with seamstresses or bakers. As time passed, the number of inmates increased from 850 in 1736 to 1059 in 1760. However, once the imprisonment of the poor became less acceptable, the numbers decreased to 250 in 1781. 

The building survived the French Revolution and was then used as an asylum for vagrants and the dispossessed in the nineteenth century before it was transformed into a barracks for the French Foreign Legion until 1922. For the next 40 years, those displaced by the demolition of the Old Port and the bombings of the Second World War lived at La Vieille Charité with various squatters, pillagers and vandals in squalid and unsafe conditions. A religious community of 30 Little Sisters of Jesus lived there, too, to minister to these people. In 1962, all the residents were rehoused and the building shut down until 1968 when Minister of Culture André Malraux provided funds to rescue the complex. La Vieille Charité was restored between 1970 and 1986. 

The complex now houses the Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology; the Museum of Art of Africa, Oceania and Amerindia; the regional hub of the École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales (EHESS); the Centre Norbert Elias, a research centre and library that specializes in anthropology and history of social dynamics; the Centre International de la Poésie de Marseille; and the Fabrique des Écritures, an innovative project that offers production facilities to researchers, as well as an environment to develop critical thinking on creative and emerging forms of narrative.

Lenche Place

 Lenche Place, the site of the old Greek agora (gathering place), is considered the oldest place in Marseille. It is named after a Corsican family who built a coral workshop on it as well as other shops and a hotel in the 16th century. Before that, the Religious of Saint Savior had an abbey here. The Lenche Theatre is here as well as several indoor and outdoor cafés. 

I had a lunch of salmon with pesto sauce, rice with herbs, and carrots. Although I wanted local fish, my salmon was from the Atlantic Ocean. My server told me that Mediterranean fish would have cost 10 euros more. 

During lunch, an older man played Spanish music on his guitar and sang. He then circulated the tables asking for tips.  He's got a good retirement gig going for him. 



One of the more interesting shops I stumbled across in the Panier is L'Espératine de Marseille, which features specialty chocolate that is made with olive oil. The oil is a substitute for the animal fats usually found in stuffed chocolates and a natural preservative. Although you can't readily taste the olive oil, it enhances the flavors of the cacao, almond and orange used with the chocolate. The shopkeeper gave me a tour of the shop as well as several samples. I couldn't resist buying green chocolates in the shape of olives and hazelnut chocolate in the shape of fish.

I also had a cup of hot chocolate, and I do mean chocolate. This chocolate was so thick, I needed a water chaser to get it down. It was melted down chocolate with a small bit of almond milk. Delicious! Accompanying the drink was a navette, a common cookie in Marseille. It is in the shape of a little boat (of course) and has an orange blossom flavor. Hmmm, good! 

 
The shopkeeper was a Greek woman born in Madagascar and now living in France. She is just another example of the multiculturalism of the city that resides both in individuals and  among the population. 

Another shop in the Panier was La Navette Marseillaise, which features the boat-shaped biscuits that come in various sizes (mine were about 4 inches) and are flavored with orange blossom. These hard, dry biscuits are popular in Marseille and one of the "must-do" foods to try. Navettes remind me of biscotti that my Sicilian grandmother used to serve. They are good for dunking in coffee or milk. Maybe that's what the locals do, too. 

I have fond memories of Le Panier district not only because of its history and redevelopment but because I took a two-hour tour in French--and understood 85-90% of the guide's explanations.



MUCEM

The MUCEM (Museum of the Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean) promotes the Mediterranean heritage, takes part in the creation of new exchanges in the region and, during this period of profound upheaval, helps to lay the foundations for the Mediterranean world of tomorrow, according to its website. The MUCEM is a place where people can come to gain a better understanding of the region on both a national and an international scale.

Its exhibitions and programs offer a multidisciplinary vision that combines anthropology, history, archaeology, art history and contemporary art to show the public the multiple facets of the Mediterranean world and its ongoing dialogue with Europe.    

The MUCEM opened in Marseille in June 2013. By the following year, it became one the 50 most visited museums in the world.

The building's black latticework of fibre-reinforced concrete makes for an awesome and striking sight, especially from the inside. Here is a sitting area that looks westward--a perfect place to watch sunsets and ships in the harbor. The hallways around the outside edges of the building are particularly stunning. 

Fort St. Nicolas

Footbridge

Along the sea, at the entrance to the Old Port, is Fort St. Nicholas and Fort Saint-Jean, a fully restored historical monument. They are connected by a footbridge to represent the connection between both shores of the Mediterranean.

Fort Saint-Jean with footbridge

The footbridge has neither arch nor cables, but instead forms a simple line of black concrete that is suspended 19 metres in the air. This is made possible by the exceptional properties of fibre-based concrete. 

Fort Saint-Jean

Color Bus Tour Around the City
Most major cities have a hop-on and hop-off bus that takes travelers around the city. I took the Color Bus tour and got an overview of Marseille. In fact, since I had a day-long pass, I took the tour twice. The tour of covers quite a bit of the city, and I've added some photos of the tour's highlights.

La Canebière is the main drag of the city. It runs north and south and ends at the Port Vieux. My apartment was on the right side of the street about 10 blocks from the Port Vieux.   



 This fort guards the entrance to Marseille. It's amazing to see such structures built right out of the limestone rock.

These are the hills that the Impressionist artists often featured in their paintings.

The beach -- Plages des Catalans. Many Spaniards from the Barcelona area came to Marseille. This beach is named after them.

Notre Dame de la Garde is at the highest point in Marseille.  Sailors pray to the Blessed Mother for protection on the sea. Her statue on top of the tower is 10 tons and was placed there in 1870.

 Hilltop mansions built in the 19th century provided residents with a good view of the sea.

Hilltop street

One of the many fountains in Marseille. It celebrates the 50-mile canal system that brought water to the city in 1849. It took 15 years to build the canal and it was the city's sole source of water until 1970.

Frioul Archipelago comprises 4 islands at the entrance to the port. The island with the castle towers (back) is Château d'If, an old island prison made legendary by Alexandre Dumas in his novel, The Count of Monte Cristo. 

 This structure measures sea level.

This Tunisian ferry brings passengers and their cars across the Mediterranean Sea to Tunis, about 500 miles due south. 

War memorial of the First World War.







 

 The Marseille Transporter Bridge once joined both sides of Port Vieux at this point. It was built in 1905 and destroyed by the Germans in 1944. A ferry now takes people across the harbor.


 

Apartment buildings built after the war handsomely line the western side of the Port Vieux next to the City Hall. This area was bombed by the Germans. Liberation Day was August 25, 1944.

The City Hall was built in 1666 during Louis XIV's reign. A bust of the King is in the top center of the building. Although it is in the area bombed during World War II, the City Hall was spared from destruction.

Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure was built from 1852 to 1896 on the site used for the cathedrals of Marseille since the fifth century. The Byzantine-Roman Revival style building covers the same square footage as the Vatican. Locals call it the "Pajamas" because of its horizontal stripes. 

Here is the view of the Cathedral from the back.



 Some dramatic seaside shots

Food
I ate as much seafood as I could, but did not get the city's famous fish stew called Bouillabaisse. It's just one more reason to return to the city!
 

This is Marseille Salad with shrimp and sardines.









 
 I had heard that Toinou's was one of the best places for oysters. So I indulged myself with a combo plate that included clams, mussels, and shrimp. Much to my surprise, everything but the shrimp was raw, but everything was super fresh and served with lemon. 

Unfortunately, I didn't get any photos of the fish market on the docks but was able to capture the seafood display  across from Toinou's, which was beautiful.

  

"My Little Algerian Souk"

My apartment was located in what appeared to be the "Little Algeria" neighborhood or as I called it, "the Souk" (marketplace). You might say that I was in the thick of humanity where there were merchants, beggars, regular shoppers, families, and tourists all using the street for their own purposes. They made the street bustle amid the smells of various cooked meats, fish, bread, and incense.

Life in "the Souk" starts about 7 a.m. when several shopkeepers set up their stores for the day. Most of them have a table right on the street and their store behind them. They stand there all day and usually finish 13 hours later. In the bakery across the street from my apartment, a woman made flat bread, pizzas, and variations of the same theme all day. She'd start with a big ball of dough and separate it into portions. Then she'd roll out the dough and put it in the oven. After it was baked, she'd take out and place it on the streetside stand. She never seemed to stop with this routine. A man (her husband?) took care of customers.

The butcher shop started its routine at 6 a.m. He had to take the meat out of the refrigerator and put it in his streetside display case. The high-pitched sounds of him cutting meat with an electric saw reminded me of the grocery store in my hometown. He was constantly on his feet preparing meats and waiting on customers. His store was the last one to close at night.

After the merchants closed their shops and rolled down a protective steel barrier, the night shift moved in with a huge and noisy commotion. The "night shift" was a host of young men who layed out their wares on a blanket along the sidewalks. Mostly, they sold shoes, but they also had jewelry, CDs, and other small items. God knows how they were able to sell these things with such competition all around them. It seemed that this "night market" was more of a social gathering and a way for young men to get out of the house. The sellers had friends on motorcycles stop by to visit them.

Around 4 a.m. a truck came through the neighborhood to pick up the trash on the street. A bit later, another truck went through to wash the street and ready it for a new day.

Marseille is a wonderful city. It is vibrant, bustling, and colorful. I highly recommend it as a place to visit.

Chicago Deep Freeze

Reuters/Lyndsay Dedario

My train trip through the heart of the country on the California Zephyr had gone on for eight days without a hitch. I made it from Chicago to San Francisco in three days and two nights and spent a night in a hotel there. On the trip eastward, I stopped in Grand Junction to spend the weekend with my friend, Bobbie, and her husband, Martin. On Monday I had only two more days of travel before I reached Chicago where I planned to stay for two days and then take the train to Kalamazoo. However, I would have to change my plans because the Polar Vortex was descending upon the Great Lakes region.

The ride from Grand Junction was beautiful and sunny over the mountains of Colorado and then over the flat, snowy landscape of the Midwest. It was hard to believe news that a "Polar Vortex" was bringing temperatures of -20 degrees and more—before figuring in the wind chill. 

As the train chugged through Iowa, and Illinois, the air around us was so cold that ice had formed under the train’s engine. We were barely an hour away from Chicago when we had to stop to loosen the ice and repair the damages to the equipment. We would be delayed for two hours. Oh, to be so close and yet so far! Then a freight train in front of us hit a car that had skidded on the ice at a crossing. First responders were out immediately tending to the crash, but there was no word on the victim. 

We were four hours behind schedule on a nice, warm train, but that didn't compare to how bad it was for those working outside in the cold. Work crews near Chicago were even laying cable on the tracks and setting fires to them to keep the tracks from splitting as trains ran over them (see video below). This was an apocalyptic scene if there ever were one.

I had to make a new plan for my stay in Chicago. I decided to stay only one night at the Palmer House and leave the city the next day on the 1:45 train bound for Kalamazoo. I prepared a light-weight overnight bag and left my suitcase at the 24-hour baggage drop-off where I would pick it up the next day.

Once I left the station the reality of the extreme weather hit me hard. The temperatures were freezing and the wind was merciless. I had to navigate myself over familiar streets, watch out for danger, and keep myself warm. I left the station and walked over the Chicago River bridge at Jackson Avenue. As I walked down the street, I came upon Derrick, the train attendant of my sleeper car. I asked if I could walk with him, and he agreed--sort of. He had long legs and a light Amtrak jacket and was trying to reach the El on State Street before he froze to death. I was literally trotting alongside him. When we branched off from each other I began to ask other people for directions to the hotel to avoid making a mistake and having to stay out in the cold even longer. I arrived at the hotel safely and was quite pleased to be in my beautiful, warm, and spacious room on the 13th floor. It must have measured 500 square feet!

Although I had planned to have dinner at the Star of Siam Restaurant, there was no way I would go back outside in the cold. I ate at a bar in the hotel, which meant another hamburger and fries meal. It was good, but I am quite satiated with burgers to last me at least a year in France! 

I returned to my room and decided to watch the film, First Man. I love biographies and space movies and didn't want to miss this one. It turned out to be another travel adventure story, one that fit the theme of my train trip. Neil Armstrong was a crack pilot and engineer, but he suffered the loss of his young daughter. He also encountered several mishaps in his work as an astronaut. The film focuses on the struggles of a super-star as it shows his humanity. It also shows how difficult--and dangerous--it was for NASA to go to the moon, something we take for granted because we aren't privy to all of the failures it took to succeed.

After the film, I crawled into my comfy double bed with three pillows and nodded off to sleep. I woke up at 5 a.m. My train didn't leave until 1:45 and I was allowed to stay in the hotel until 11:30. I decided to get some coffee and leisurely sit in my room and write. Good plan but it was not to be. The news reported that all Amtrak trains had been cancelled for Wednesday and Thursday due to the extreme cold! Amtrak would re-open for service on Friday when temperatures rose to 20 degrees. After a quick breakfast at the Corner Bakery, which seemed not to have any heat inside, I began to strategize my next move. 

Sr. Carol Crepeau of La Grange had invited me to visit her whenever I was in town. This was it! We talked on the phone and she suggested I take the Metra Line to La Grange (a Chicago suburb) and she would pick me up at the station house. 

 

I put on my winter wear and wrapped up myself covering everything except my eyes. The walk to Union Station was blistering cold. It was also surreal. There were hardly any cars on the downtown streets of Chicago. In fact, I crossed streets against the lights several times to keep moving. After 15 minutes of this, my hands were curled up and frozen. I kept my mouth and nose covered to avoid breathing in the cold air. Finally, a couple blocks from the station I spotted a building that was open. I needed to warm up a bit before I continued my walk. One of the security guards inside was very friendly. "You can stay here as long as you like to warm up," he said. "This is an extraordinary day."

I finally reached Union Station and found it to be empty except for a few workers who were able to make it there. The Great Hall was more like the Great Hollow; there was absolutely no one there.

Fortunately, the Metra Line trains were running, albeit in a limited way. I bought my ticket and headed for the Metropolitan Lounge. Esther was especially nice to me there. She retrieved my suitcase in the baggage drop-off and allowed me to stay in the Lounge while I waited the next 45 minutes for my train. It was then and there that I decided I wanted to write a story about the California Zephyr and praise Amtrak for its efforts in helping people during this "once in a generation event" called the "Polar Vortex."

Snuggled on the Metra Line

This was my first ride on the Metra Line, and I was glad to discover it. The ticket office is near the Great Hall and the Metro Lounge, and it connects to the Amtrak trains as well as the airport. There were hardly any people on the train. One of the conductors said that he had worked for the Metra Line for 14 years and "this was the worst day of his career." There was very little heat in the train, and the doors between cars remained ajar causing the cold to creep in.

I was very concerned about missing my stop so I kept asking the conductor questions about where it was, if the station house was open, etc. "I can't afford to make a mistake," I told him. He was polite and patient but probably glad to drop me off at the La Grange/Stone stop. He helped me with my bag, and pointed out where I could cross the tracks to get to the station house. 

Train people are extraordinary public servants. They meet all classes of people and offer them the service they need with respect and care. I found this same attitude among the bus drivers of Kalamazoo as well. We owe them our praise and thanks for the job they do--in all kinds of weather.

The Stone Avenue Train Station was empty but heated and a good place to be while I waited for Carol to pick me up. It was built in 1901 in an architectural style that "typifies the vigorous spirit of the nation entering the 20th century," said a plaque on the wall. It also "expresses civic pride that flourished in La Grange when the young village was becoming what founders envisioned--a community of fine homes, good schools, and a pleasant place to live and raise a family." 

The station was listed in a catalog of America's "Historic Railroad Stations" in 1974 and in 1976 it was designated as a local city landmark. By 2000, however, it had fallen into disrepair until the village of La Grange preserved it in 2013 "as an irreplaceable community asset." Volunteers worked on its interior and exterior, and the project received $1.1 million in grants from the Federal Mass Transit Administration and the West Suburban Mass Transit District. In 2016, Landmarks Illinois presented the Village a Driehaus Foundation Preservation Award for the station's restoration.

Carol arrived, and she took me to the Honey Bee Restaurant, a Greek family restaurant, one of her favorites. Then, we went to her home, which was the rectory of a nearby Episcopalian church. She made a dinner of pasta, which I greatly appreciated. It had been days since I'd had any pasta, my comfort food. After dinner, we did the dishes, jumped into our pajamas, and settled down for TV news followed by Rachel Maddow at 8 p.m. Then we went to bed exhausted by the weather and the stress of managing our way through it.

We started out Thursday morning with breakfast and TV news. Carol needed to go to her office at La Grange Center, so I went with her. This was my first chance to see the Center and more importantly, to meet some of the people there. 

Carol is a new friend I made through the International Centre when she brought a group of pilgrims there in fall 2017. This is one of the perks of working at the Centre: people from all over the world come here! It is a special privilege, and it has expanded my horizons to see a much bigger picture of the Sisters of St. Joseph beyond my experience with the sisters at Nazareth. It has been especially gratifying to meet sisters and associates from my own community, the Congregation of St. Joseph and allows me feel more united with them.

The first person I met at the La Grange Center was Nancy, the IT coordinator. She not only helped me with my cell phone, she showed me the two servers the Center uses. I had been wondering what servers looked like since the 2016 election when they became a divisive factor for Hillary Clinton's e-mails. They are 18"x24"x6" metal boxes that sit on a shelf and "work" the tons of data that flow through them.


I also met up with Sr. Peggy Wessel from Nazareth who I hadn't seen in many years. She was one of the novices who helped coordinate the "Come and See" for my entrance class 45 years ago. She was an elementary teacher and a special education teacher. She currently lives at the La Grange Center where she has been battling cancer for the past two years. She lost her hair twice, but it has grown back to a beautiful, curly, salt and pepper color. She calls it her "chemo hair." 

Peggy is working through her cancer in a faith-filled way with a couple other sisters who are dealing with their cancers. She’s always been a spirit-filled, soft-spoken, and gentle woman. These qualities seem to be surely helping her now. I'm so glad we had this time together!

Peggy, Sallie, and Carol

At noon, Peggy, Carol, and I had a lunch of swiss steak, shrimp and rice, salad, cottage cheese, pickled beets, and mixed vegetables. Delicious! 

Carol introduced me to the sisters in the dining room. Many of them knew me through my blogs, which was truly gratifying. Writers like to be read, for sure! Mary Southard, the artist, Kathy Sherman, the musician and songwriter were also there. Kathy later gave me a couple of her CDs, which I promised to bring to the International Centre for all our guests to enjoy. Sallie Latkovich, who last year was elected to the new CSJ Leadership Team, sat at our table and talked a bit. I was glad to meet her, too! 

Before we left the La Grange Center, Carol took me to the chapel, which I liked very much. It has a spiritual power in its design and an obvious energy that makes it a holy place.

Actually, it was  serendipitous luck that I was marooned in Chicago. I had an opportunity to meet sisters at the La Grange Center and see a place I only knew in name. Someday, I hope to visit the other five Congregational  centers!




















The Pedicure

 
Carol is a fun person to be with. She likes to do things. She asked me if I'd ever had a pedicure. Never. However, I couldn't pass up a new experience, so we went. Carol’s treatment took longer, so my attendant put the massage chair to work. I loved it! In typical fashion, however, I fell asleep in the chair. 

During another part of the treatment, the male pedicurist wrapped my legs in hot towels. Then the woman attendant checked over his work, corrected any missed spots, and massaged my feet a bit more. Ahhhhhh!

Jackie

After the pedicure, we returned to the house. Jackie was already there and waiting for Carol to help her pick up a car from the shop and return the other. During that time I made dinner: stew like my mother used to make--and they liked it. 

I first met Jackie in New Orleans in 2012 and stayed a couple days at her apartment. She gave me a wonderful tour of the various ministries to the poor going on there, which was inspiring to see. We went to the old slave church, which is today a vibrant community parish. She also took me to the site where the Medaille community located their motherhouse--until Hurricane Katrina flooded it and a fire later gutted it. The building was demolished and the land is now being put to good environmental use. 

 Jackie also introduced me to Alison McCrary, a Catholic Sister, social justice lawyer, mediator, and spiritual advisor on Death Row. Alison spent time talking with me about her ministry. She also invited me to attend Mass at St. Augustine Catholic Church, where she is a parishioner and leader. The church was founded in 1841. Established by free people of color who also bought pews for slaves, it is the oldest African-American Catholic parish in the nation. Hurricane Katrina caused much damage to the church and a decline in its population forced the diocese to close it. To save the church, parishioners barricaded themselves in the rectory for two weeks in protest. They won, and the parish is still open! If I ever realize my dream of living in New Orleans, this church will be my parish.

Finally, we had dinner with Sr. Helen Prejan, the "Dead Man Walking Nun." Helen lived in the apartment next to Jackie, and they frequently met for meals and socializing. We all had a great talk that night as Helen told some of her best interesting stories. It's a rare occasion to see the humanness in someone who is an international star! 

I remain most appreciative of Jackie for hosting me in New Orleans!


Heading for Home
On Friday, the Amtrak trains resumed service. Carol took me to the station house where I bought a Metra Line ticket. While I waited for the train, I had another serendipitous encounter with Sr. Marlene and her colleague, Kate. They are parish ministers at St. Francis Xavier Parish and are attending a one-day conference on immigration in Chicago. Marlene said she recognized me from my blog. I have certainly become a minor CSJ celebrity through the blog and my work at the International Centre.

Kate and Sr. Marlene

I headed for Union Station in Chicago, and made my way to Kalamazoo where I would stayed overnight at Nazareth before returning to Detroit to my sister's house to spend the last few days before I left for France. 

This experience in Chicago illustrates the beauty and value of travel where you never know who you will meet or what you will do. You are, in truth, in God's hands as you encounter new worlds and meet new people. Making connections with sisters on this unplanned Chicago leg of my train trip has certainly yielded much fruit in getting to know my congregation better, too.