A Day Trip in Langeac

Eluiza and I haven't been satisfied with going to Mass at our regular parish, so we sometimes go elsewhere. La Chaise Dieu is my favorite. I like being in the old monastery sitting in the medieval choir stalls, and attending a simple Mass without a lot of "extras". By going to Mass in other towns, we have a chance to see what's available both in terms of Mass and the town's amenities. One Sunday in late October we went to St. Gal in Langeac, which is about 30 minutes from home. After Mass we had lunch at a Middle Eastern restaurant and then just walked around the town snapping photos of interesting sights.

 

 

The altar is quite striking with its wood-carved monk stalls in the back, a prominent altar, stained glass windows, and dark stone walls. There was only one young priest celebrating the Mass on the day we visited the church. He seemed to be from somewhere in Asia. On another day we visited the church in St. Paulien where an Asian priest was presiding and the choir was led by a few African sisters. The diocese apparently relies on priests and religious from other countries to staff its parishes. 

Actually, I felt sorry for this priest. There were not many people attending Mass, and yet he had to do all the things a priest would do to make the Mass reverent and meaningful. It has to be discouraging for a priest to have such low numbers in his congregation as well, especially in such a big building. There is only one Mass at this church on Sunday. Our home parish in Le Puy has two Masses on the weekends and they are quite full: one on Saturday night and the other on Sunday morning.

                          

 

 

The art pieces in this church were especially striking, the crucifix and Jesus tomb (above) for their realistic execution and impact as well as the Mother and Child for its brilliant color.

One small side chapel in the back of the church served as a memorial to Mother Agnes, the founder of the Dominican monastery of nuns that lived here 400 years ago. Also known as Agnes of Jesus, she was beatified by Pope John Paul II on November 20, 1994. Her feast day is October 19.

Agnès Galand was born on November 17, 1602 in Le Puy-en-Velay. From an early age, she showed a proclivity toward a deep spiritual life. At age seven she consecrated herself to the Virgin Mary. She entered the Dominican Monastic Order of St. Catherine of Siena in Langeac in 1623 and later served as Mistress of Novices and then as Prioress. She was deposed from this office and accepted her removal with indifference and grace. 

 

Agnes was deemed a mystic because she had visions of the Blessed Mother. In one instance, the Virgin appeared to her as putting a gold chain around her neck in her joy with Agnes becoming devoted to her and her Son. According to Louis-Marie Grignion de Montfort, a French Catholic priest who wrote a number of influential books including those in the field of Mariology, St. Cecilia, accompanied the Blessed Mother and said to her, "Happy are the faithful slaves of the Queen of Heaven, for they will enjoy true freedom."

 

In 1631, Agnes experienced the most famous of her visions, in which the Blessed Mother urged her to pray for the abbot at the Pébrac monastery, about 20 minutes by car from Langeac. Jean-Jacques Olier was the current abbot and neither he nor Agnes knew each other. While Olier was in a retreat led by Vincent de Paul, he had a vision of Agnes appearing to him. He decided to look her up in Langeac. When they met, Agnes told him her vision: "I have received orders from the Holy Virgin to pray for you. God has destined you to open the first seminaries in France." Olier would eventually found the Society of Saint-Sulpice in 1642 in Paris. Before her death, Agnes encouraged her community to pray for the Church's priests. 

 

For more information about the Pébrac monastery that is associated with the story of Agnes of Jesus, see the blog post.

St. Gal faces the Allier River although its entrance is on the other side of the building in a small city square off from the center of the city.

                        

The exterior of the church is rather simple in form. It has a tower and four bays that serve to frame the background area around the altar.

 

Near the church tower is a walkway that served as one of the seven gates of the fortified town of Langeac. It included a guardhouse for police surveillance. 

 

In the 14th century on the first Sunday in July, the counts of Mercœur and the lord of Chilhac would enter the city here to lead a mock battle where they and the townspeople threw 1200-1500 eggs at each other.

The Allier River

                        

 

One of the highlights of Langeac is the scenic Allier River, a 262-mile tributary of the Loire River. A modern bridge (below) connects the town to a small island where various recreational activities take place. Eluiza captured a dramatic photo of it. 

The Streetscape

            

The streetscape includes some interesting windows, doors, and other embellishments  from a time long ago.

        

                    

This intriguing little building has been made more special with tromp d'œile art--and it's only a restroom!

 

            

The center of the city features a war memorial to the fallen soldiers of World War I (left) and the majestic city hall (right).

 

Langeac is in the middle of an agricultural area, and yet it seems to be a crossroads to many other places, as indicated by these sign posts.

Resources

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agnes_of_Jesus

Back in the USA -- After 4 Years

                               

It's been four years since I've been home and I was anxious to go there to see my sister, friends, eat my favorite foods, and just be in a place where everyone speaks English. Covid was responsible for three of those four years of absence -- two due to the non-movement of just about everything in the world and one year when I contracted Covid only one week before I was to fly home. 

Eluiza went with me to the train station since she had some other business to take care of in town. That was a nice good-bye for the next two weeks. This was my first train trip since the Le Puy station was renovated and updated. We look very modern now. Behind the platform (left) is one of the trains that runs back and forth from LePuy to St. Etienne, the connecting city to Lyon. It is clean, comfortable, swift, and almost always on time.

The Rhone Express runs from the Lyon train station to the Lyon airport in 30 minutes. I met these two women on the Rhone Express and spent some time talking with them on the train and at one of the airport restaurants. They were waiting for their afternoon flight, and I had the entire afternoon to lounge around since I would be staying overnight in an airport hotel. They were both writers and they gave me some ideas for writing articles for National Geographic, still a dream I've had in my life since I was 11 years old. One of the women lives in the Azores and knows a retired NatGeo photographer who may be able to help me.

I stayed overnight at the Ibis Hotel near the Lyon airport and took an early morning flight to Detroit, which totaled only 12 hours with one stopover. Not bad but very expensive. 

I landed in Detroit and stayed with my sister and brother-in-law for a few days before I rented a car and visited friends in Battle Creek, Kalamazoo, and East Lansing. Then I spent the last few days again with my sister.

I rented a car for one of my two weeks in Michigan, and it was nice to get back on the wide, open roads of Michigan. France's roads in the Haute-Loire Region are frequently two-lane highways with twists and turns through the mountains and down narrow medieval-age streets flanked by stone walls or buildings. What's more, I was able to rent the car for free because I could apply my Amtrak credit card points toward the rental. What luck!!

Time with Elsa and Jesus in Battle Creek

A few years ago I began a small tutoring business teaching English to international students. This work included English lessons for employees from the Kellogg Company. That's how I met Elsa. She is the wife of Kellogg engineer, Jesus, who is Mexican. We eventually struck up a relationship that has lasted over the past decade. During the Covid years we extended our conversations to twice a week on Zoom so that we could practice English and French. We continue to do this today. When I told Elsa that I was coming to the USA, she invited me to her house for an overnight--and a visit to the new brewery in town: the New Holland Brewing Company. Jesus joined us and we had a nice dinner together. It is so important to have friendships like ours that stretch across the miles, the years, and our cultures. 

Time with Tracy in Kalamazoo

My friend, Tracy, invited me to stay with her for a few days while I was in Kalamazoo. We indulged ourselves in some interesting talks, walks, and some delicious meals. Here we are having a Middle Eastern buffet at Shawarma King. 

One day we went to Saugatuck for lunch at The Butler, one of my all-time  favorite places in southwest Michigan. You can't beat the surroundings of the marina that opens to Lake Michigan. Tracy had pizza and I had The Butler's famous olive burger with fries. Tracy's parents, Bryce, and Monny, used to take us here for dinner. It's a nice memory of them and the good times we had in Holland. 

In Saugatuck, I bought some kitchen stuff for the International Centre at the Butler Pantry, the world's greatest kitchen store. It's not always possible to find things in France, so I took this opportunity back home to buy what we needed including a cheese grater (with a handle), a sturdy wine bottle opener (yes, I'm serious!), ice cube trays, and a scrub brush for vegetables. 

On my last day in Kalamazoo Tracy and I went to Antique Kitchen where they make the best pancakes and have the best servers in the city. I had my favorite, banana nut pancakes, while Tracy had scrambled eggs. I had been thinking about pancakes for months and fortunately had my craving satisfied. (Crêpes and galettes are not the same as pancakes, as good as they are.)

Since I usually come to this restaurant alone in the morning, I sit at the bar (below) in order to watch the kitchen staff and servers pump out the delicious breakfast food. We sat at a table instead.

                                    

Anita -- Two Dogs Lady

Best neighbor ever is Anita. We lived as next-door neighbors in Parkview Hills for over 10 years. The first night I arrived at the condo, she brought some homemade cookies as a neighborly welcome. Since I've been in France she takes care of my financial affairs, which has made living so far away much easier. We are avid Tiger baseball fans and watched a game one evening during my time in Kalamazoo. Here she is with her "black dog", Darby. Her "white dog", Dewey, hadn't yet arrived at the time of this photo. Darby used to "chase" my cat, Tucker. Even after Tucker died, my whistle got Darby all excited thinking the cat was near. Such precious pets they are!

Time at Nazareth

I visited Nazareth but failed to take some photos of the sisters I saw there. Instead, I spent time with one of my long-time friends, Sr. Lois. She had invited my hometown pastor, Fr. Bob, for a visit, and she had arranged a nice lunch with him and a number of other friends: Sisters Sue, Pat, Pam, and Joan. Of course, other sisters were in the cafeteria, and I stopped and said hello to each of them. It was very nice to see them all again after so many years. Here are some past photos of my sisters, both living and deceased, that represent my memories of Nazareth. 

                    

                               

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Here is a photo of the sisters saying good-bye before I left for France in July 2017. This is one of the things sisters do consistently. We gather like this at the International Centre, too, to say good-bye to someone. Some of the sisters in this photo have passed on over the past six years. It's sad to see them now in this picture, but like so many things, the memories of each of them are precious and something to hang on to for the rest of my life. I am grateful to the sisters for their love and support for me over all these years. They have truly made a difference in my life! 

One major thing that changed at the Nazareth campus over the past four years was the removal of the old Motherhouse. It is now field of prairie grass. Seeing it only made me numb. I didn't even drop a tear. The Jesus statue (below) on the tree-lined chalice drive was still there, however, dark spots are beginning to cover it. Maybe these spots are tree resin. This change marks the end of an era where there were once over 900 sisters in the community and a full campus with a girls' high school, a boys' elementary school, a college, a retired sisters' home, and the Motherhouse. Like all of the sisters, I miss the old Nazareth and will always hold its memory in my heart. Unfortunately, it was one of those 20th century places that couldn't endure the 21st because of societal changes. 

Shopping Spree in Kalamazoo

You can't have a vacation without going shopping, and neither did I. It's not always easy finding things in France because the sizes are much smaller and the shapes of women's bodies are different from those in the USA. And being of rather large girth these days, it's almost impossible even though I'm getting a little better at finding things. Thank God for the Saturday street market! 

Time in East Lansing

Beth and Marge and I got together for dinner, an overnight, and breakfast. We are classmates of the Sisters of St. Joseph of Nazareth and have been friends since 1974, a year before we entered.  Our other classmates, Bobbie and Patty, now live in Colorado and North Carolina, respectively. We have kept in touch with each other via Zoom over the past few years -- once a month on the first Thursday. It is truly remarkable that our friendship has lasted this long, but then again, we are sisters forever! Marge has been kind enough to store some of my stuff during my time in France. 

Favorite Foods

It doesn't take much to make me happy so when I go back home, I eat all of my favorite foods: Chinese food (sweet/sour chicken or subgum chow mein with won-ton soup), char-grilled burger and fries, banana nut pancakes, a tin roof ice cream treat, and a Coney Island hot dog with skins. Simple pleasures.

               

Time with Denise and John in Livonia (Detroit)

I spent most of my time with my sister, Denise, and brother-in-law, John. Here we had an old-fashioned BBQ picnic in their backyard.

When we weren't eating, we had morning coffee at the Italian Bakery near their home. They regularly go there and are part of the Italian community that hangs there. Denise speaks Italian to the men that go there, and they speak English.

Denise and John just joined the local Italian-American Club. They shared with me their first night's feast: a buffet akin to an Italian weddings we used to go to as children. It brought back many memories of my family going to the Eastside of Detroit to celebrate Mom's cousins' weddings. The club even had dancing!

I'd give anything to re-visit those days just one more time, but alas, the Italian Club is the updated version of what we used to do. If there were a reason to move back to Detroit after my time in France, this would be it! The only thing missing were the old Italians who brought shopping bags to stuff food in them.

Here's my plate--full of carbs. But how oh so delicious they were!! The coconut cream wedding cake was especially good!

We went to Mass at St. Edith's in Livonia with Fr. Jim and Deacon John celebrating. It was nice to be there in person. I usually watch the Mass on Sunday night in order to hear the English version. So sorry I missed pizza night and spaghetti night. Maybe I can plan my next trip around these events.

One of my favorite stores in Detroit is Cantoro's Italian store. As a child, my family used to go to the Italian store to buy cheeses, olives, deli meats, pasta, wine, Italian newspapers, etc. Cantoro's is like that only it offers these same things in a modern store. It also has a coffee bar and a restaurant although we've yet to go there. Detroit has a big Italian community and many ethnic tastes are satisfied with their products.

Denise and I love Chinese food! We always go out for it whenever I'm in town. Since her regular restaurant has closed, she looked high and low for a replacement. It turns out that the Rainbow is very good, and it's close to her home. 

We started eating Chinese food with Mom. After she died, we'd go out for Chinese to celebrate her birthday. Then Denise started a tradition with her son to go to the Chinese restaurant a day or two before the new school year. I often joined them. I miss those days, too. 

I typically get won-ton soup, egg roll, and sweet/sour chicken. Denise ordered subgum chicken and vegetables. There are Chinese restaurants in France, but the one near my home is a buffet with too much food that is over-priced. I prefer the combo plate in the US.

One of the wonderful stores in Livonia is Joe's Produce with fresh, delicious, and  some organic products. During the summers, the store also provides a popular outdoor BBQ of hot dogs and hamburgers. 

Joyce, a friend and former Flint Street neighbor, came to Denise and John's home for a visit. We had spumoni and fruit. She and Denise have been friends and classmates for over 65 years. They used to play school together in the basement of our house in Melvindale. Joyce spent her whole work life with the U.S. Treasury Department in Downtown Detroit. 

After Mom's death in 1970, Joyce used to come to our house on Saturday nights to watch "Mary Tyler Moore", "Bob Newhart", and "The Love Boat". We had to make a new life, and Joyce was there to be with both of us. That's just another aspect of her friendship to Denise that was extended to me. Joyce's mother, Minnie, also played a role in my life: she was my sponsor when I converted to the Catholic faith in 1973. Minnie and Joyce were there at Denise's for my last meal before I went to France six years ago.

                        

I hadn't seen a baseball game in a long time and getting back into it helped me feel like home. The Tigers have been "re-building" their team (a euphemism for a losing season) so I wasn't missing anything. (They lost this game, too.) Meanwhile, in France I've come to enjoy soccer (they call it "fut") and rugby even though I don't know the rules or strategies. One thing I miss in France is taking a nap during the white noise of a baseball game. My cat, Tucker, used to take a snooze with me, too, as we "watched" the game.

Denise and John's Home

Here is Denise and John's house. They have lived here over 20 years. It is beautifully furnished and always clean and comfortable. They have hosted me throughout the 43 years of their marriage and during their parenting years with son, Kevin, who is now 40 years old. In exchange, I spent many wonderful years babysitting and visiting with them. This house and their previous house were like second homes to me, and I have always been grateful to them for their hospitality. 

Mom used to pray for Denise and me. One of her prayers, I'm sure, was that we would stick together for the rest of our lives. Thankfully, that prayer is being fulfilled even while I'm in France. We are in constant touch thanks to FaceTime and email.

This trip was short but it was full. I am grateful I could finally take it after four years. It was good to see that my friendships--many of them over long periods of time--are still there. That's God's great gift to me, and I feel very blessed.