I Finally Climbed St. Michel

Every day for the past year I have gazed upon St. Michel and thought about climbing it. However, as one both afraid of heights and worried about the strain on my knees, I put it off--until recently. That all changed when one of our visitors wanted to go, and I agreed to accompany her. Boy, was it worth it on two counts.

First of all, even though the walk upward on the 262 steps looks formidable, it really isn't so bad. That is because it lends to a magnificent view down below. Various landings provide natural stopping points from which to look around and marvel at the river, the red-tiled roof houses, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the little romanesque St. Clair Chapel, and the city of Le Puy itself. Breath-takingly marvelous! 

Then again, with each movement closer toward the top, I got a more intimate view of the chapel itself. Actually, it is smaller than it appears from the ground, probably because the mount it is built on, composed of lava that spurted out from beneath the sea that once covered this land, is solid rock about 82 meters (269 feet) high. 

The chapel is packed full of interesting details that the builders took pains to provide to those who ventured to the top back in 969 when it opened as well as to those who go there today. This is a place in Le Puy NOT to be missed!

The chapel is also replete with intricate stone work on the outside as well as the stone pillars, floors and ceilings on the inside. It has gargoyles and frescoes. Finally, the dark but inspirational chapel winds around the top of a lava mount. All these features reveal the extravagant imaginations of the builders, the influence of the Orient, and their Christian spirituality. Take a look at the photos below to see what I mean.

St. Michel kills the dragon.

Side chapel with frescoes

Frescoes on the ceiling

Back of the church

According to Wikipedia: "The church, built in volcanic stone, has a portal decorated with a lobed arch, characteristic of the Umayyad architecture of the caliphate of Cordoba 8 which spread in the French Romanesque architecture through the influence of the pilgrims along the major French pilgrimage routes of Santiago de Compostela and, in particular, along Via Podiensis through Aiguilhe.
"The door is framed by two columns, each surmounted by a capital carved with acanthus leaves and an anthropomorphic or zoomorphic motif. It is surmounted by a carved lintel decorated with two mermaids confronted, which supports a tympanum bordered by a foliage frieze. On this frieze leans the trilobed arch, adorned with foliage and anthropomorphic motifs. The interior of the lobes is decorated with carved scenes, including the paschal lamb.

"Above the arch is a mosaic of polychrome stones surmounted by arcades under which is represented the Christ surrounded by Saint John, the Virgin, Archangel Michael and Saint Peter."


Many people wonder how this chapel was built? The short answer is with wheels and pulleys that hoisted the materials upward to the top. It took a lot of work and patience over two centuries but they did it!

The second reason why this climb was worth the effort was that the church is very inspirational. I felt an eerie but enduring presence of the millions of people who have been here over the past 11 centuries. That makes the energy here very strong and prayer so much more forthcoming. 

St. Michel has been a sacred place since pre-historic times. The Romans dedicated the mount to Mercury. Then the Christians built the present-day chapel and dedicated it to Michael the Archangel. Over the centuries it was renovated.  For more information about the chapel's history and characteristics, check out this website.

Here is one final photo from my room of the morning moon in August setting near St. Michel. What an incredible gift we have here with St. Michel!

Un Voleur A Pris Mon Portable!

I’ve traveled all over the world, but this was the first time in over 30 years that I’ve ever been a victim of theft. A petty thief took my cell phone!

It happened at a restaurant in the Old City of Lyon, my first day of a much-needed four-day mini-vacation. A friend and I had spent a nice day in the city and decided to conclude our time together with an evening meal at a sidewalk café. We had just received our meal when a young man who was carrying a newspaper with the headline “sans abri” meaning homeless, stopped at our table. He had approached me for a hand-out once before while we were walking in the city but I blew him off  and he went away. Once we were seated at our table, he stopped and asked for money again. Then, a few minutes later he returned and was standing behind me. He very strangely put down his newspaper on the empty table next to me. I told him to scram and he left.

I had just shown my friend photos of our day together and put my cell phone on the empty table. I had also taken off my shoulder bag and put it on the accompanying chair. The thief obviously saw my phone, put his newspaper on top of it, and swooped it away without my seeing him do it. Three women from the shop next to the restaurant alerted me that I had just been robbed. I slung my purse over my shoulder, leaped up from the table, and headed down the street looking for the thief. Meanwhile, the waiter from the restaurant ran down the street after the thief. Unfortunately, neither of us could find him. 

The women in the shop and my server advised me to go to the police and report the incident, which I did the next day. The restaurant had cameras and recorded the incident. Since I had seen the thief three times, I knew I could identify him.  Nevertheless, the chances of getting back my cell phone were nil, said the police. Cell phones are hot property for re-sale and mine was now on the market.

"This is Lyon," said a woman at the desk of the police station. "A big tourist city attracts thieves. You have to be careful."

Actually, I was unusually calm about the theft. Of course, I wasn’t happy, but at least the thief didn’t get my purse, which had my credit cards, driver’s license, and other ID. Nor did he ever touch me or hurt me physically. So, I was very lucky. 

The next day I went to the police station to report the theft. My written report and hour-long interview with the police officer were all in French, and I was able to communicate. So that boosted my confidence in the language!

I also went to the bank/post office nearby and fortunately, the woman who speaks English was there. She looked up my account and changed the SIM card. Now my phone was locked, she said. She also checked my account and indicated that it had not been touched or hacked, which was my biggest worry.  When I returned to Le Puy I bought a new phone and cover. Now I will be more careful with it--and be less trusting of others when I am out on the street.