Every day for the past year I have gazed upon St. Michel and thought about climbing it. However, as one both afraid of heights and worried about the strain on my knees, I put it off--until recently. That all changed when one of our visitors wanted to go, and I agreed to accompany her. Boy, was it worth it on two counts.
First of all, even though the walk upward on the 262 steps looks formidable, it really isn't so bad. That is because it lends to a magnificent view down below. Various landings provide natural stopping points from which to look around and marvel at the river, the red-tiled roof houses, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the little romanesque St. Clair Chapel, and the city of Le Puy itself. Breath-takingly marvelous!
Then again, with each movement closer toward the top, I got a more intimate view of the chapel itself. Actually, it is smaller than it appears from the ground, probably because the mount it is built on, composed of lava that spurted out from beneath the sea that once covered this land, is solid rock about 82 meters (269 feet) high.
The chapel is packed full of interesting details that the builders took pains to provide to those who ventured to the top back in 969 when it opened as well as to those who go there today. This is a place in Le Puy NOT to be missed!
The chapel is also replete with intricate stone work on the outside as well as the stone pillars, floors and ceilings on the inside. It has gargoyles and frescoes. Finally, the dark but inspirational chapel winds around the top of a lava mount. All these features reveal the extravagant imaginations of the builders, the influence of the Orient, and their Christian spirituality. Take a look at the photos below to see what I mean.
St. Michel kills the dragon. |
Side chapel with frescoes |
Frescoes on the ceiling |
Back of the church |
According to Wikipedia: "The church, built in volcanic stone, has a portal decorated with a lobed arch, characteristic of the Umayyad architecture of the caliphate of Cordoba 8 which spread in the French Romanesque architecture through the influence of the pilgrims along the major French pilgrimage routes of Santiago de Compostela and, in particular, along Via Podiensis through Aiguilhe.
"The door is framed by two columns, each surmounted by a capital carved with acanthus leaves and an anthropomorphic or zoomorphic motif. It is surmounted by a carved lintel decorated with two mermaids confronted, which supports a tympanum bordered by a foliage frieze. On this frieze leans the trilobed arch, adorned with foliage and anthropomorphic motifs. The interior of the lobes is decorated with carved scenes, including the paschal lamb.
"Above the arch is a mosaic of polychrome stones surmounted by arcades under which is represented the Christ surrounded by Saint John, the Virgin, Archangel Michael and Saint Peter."
Many people wonder how this chapel was built? The short answer is with wheels and pulleys that hoisted the materials upward to the top. It took a lot of work and patience over two centuries but they did it!
The second reason why this climb was worth the effort was that the church is very inspirational. I felt an eerie but enduring presence of the millions of people who have been here over the past 11 centuries. That makes the energy here very strong and prayer so much more forthcoming.
St. Michel has been a sacred place since pre-historic times. The Romans dedicated the mount to Mercury. Then the Christians built the present-day chapel and dedicated it to Michael the Archangel. Over the centuries it was renovated. For more information about the chapel's history and characteristics, check out this website.
Here is one final photo from my room of the morning moon in August setting near St. Michel. What an incredible gift we have here with St. Michel!
Hi Olga, how are you? What a beautiful experience you had in St Michael!! I never went to the top - to high for me. I liked to look at it at night when I were in a bed in that side. I was wonderful!! I miss Le Puy and the good friends there - You and Eluiza. A great hug for both of you. Love, Bete
ReplyDeleteDear Olga,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for sharing this. It allows me to relive my experience of the Mount and Le Puy in May 2014. You are so right about the views on the way up the Mount. They are astounding! And the chapel -- two centuries to build it and now it is our gift! I love the photo from your room and remember the same view from the room I stayed in. Many blessings to you and to all who visit this sacred, special place.
wow...what wonderful memories this evokes. I hope you also took in the St. Gabriel chapel near the bottom and the wonderful video about the history of St. Michael. The whole place is mystical. I have some great sunset pictures from the International Centre.
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