St. Martin of Tours

In high school world history class I learned that the Moors (Muslims) had moved quickly from Arabia and across northern Africa conquering lands for their new religion, Islam, that was founded in 632. They crossed the Strait of Gibraltar into Europe and pressed on through Spain and France until Charles Martel stopped them in Tours in 732. It was a momentous battle and the beginning of the Moors' retreat into Andalusia in southern Spain. They stayed until 1492 when they were completely expelled from Europe by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. 

I have now been privileged to visit all these places, but it was in Tours that I learned that the real hero of this city was St. Martin (316/336-397) and that Charles Martel may have been victorious not in Tours but in nearby Poitiers. Many Muslims of northern Africa have since immigrated to France and all over Europe. My historical sense was far from shattered, however, because St. Martin really made a more positive, more memorable impact on the world.

The story of St. Martin is a simple story of Christian mercy at a time when the religion was still just getting its "sea legs". The third bishop of Tours (371-397) was born in [Szombathely, Hungary] where he converted to Christianity as a young man against his parents' wishes. He became a soldier in the Roman cavalry and was stationed in [Amiens, France]. Around 361 he became a disciple of Hilary of Poitiers, a doctor and bishop of the Church who successfully defeated Arianiasm, a belief that was later declared heretical. St. Martin subsequently established the Benedictine monastery at Ligugé in the Department of Viennes, France, the oldest monastery known in Europe. Ten years later he was reluctantly consecrated Bishop of Tours.

St. Martin is best known in using his sword to cut his cloak in two in order to give half to a rag-clad beggar in the dead of winter, as shown by the statue on the right and in the photo at the top of this blog entry. His crypt (right) in Tours became a famous stopping-point for pilgrims on the road to Santiago de Compostella in northwestern Spain. Part of his brain is still on display as a relic in a semi-basement crypt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although the St. Martin cult waned over the centuries, it was revived upon the discovery of his tomb in 1860 and during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71. As a consequence. he was seen as a patron saint of France during the French Third Republic (1870-1940). A new basilica was built over the old one and dedicated to his memory. Extensive re-construction of the interior was finished in 1902, but the basilica was not consecrated until 1925.

                                     

                              

 The basilica's architectural schema imitates the early Christian basilicas of Italy with a three-nave interior leading to semi-circular apses and monolithic columns in polished granite. The decoration also reflects Byzantine tradition with capitals, carved friezes, mosaics, gilded paintings, and marble marquetry (applying pieces of marble to a structure to form decorative patterns, designs, or pictures). 

 

 

 

 
 

 

As for Charles Martel (c.688-741), he was a Frankish political and military leader who ruled Francia from 718 until his death. He became known as "The Hammer" when he successfully claimed power as successor to his father, Pepin of Herstal, as the head of state in Francia. He worked to restore centralized government and conducted a series of military campaigns that re-established the Franks as masters of Gaul. 

In 732 (a date school children are taught to remember), he overcame the Umayyad (Muslim) invasion of Aquitaine at the Battle of Tours, which is also called the Battle of Poitiers because it took place somewhere between the two cities. The Umayyad army retreated after the battle, the Carolingians took control of western Europe for the next century, and Europe remained Christian. Martel also developed the Frankish system of feudalism. He divided Francia between his sons Carloman and Pepin, the latter of whom became king. Pepin's son, Charlemagne, extended the Frankish territories and became the first emperor in the West since the fall of Rome.

 

Vieux Tours -- Old Town  

On June 4, 800 AD, the wife of Emperor Charles the Great (Charlemagne), died. Tradition has it that the Emperor buried her in or near the old Basilica of St. Martin of Tours, although the actual tomb has never been officially certified. The Charlemagne Tower is a remnant of that ancient building.

The old basilica was replaced in 1014 with a Romanesque basilica over the site. Originally this building had three towers, two in front and the Cadran over the transept. The Charlemagne tower was restored in 1962. The Charlemagne Tower is Romanesque in the lower floors, and Gothic above while a spiral staircase provides access to the top. 

Tours is famous for its original medieval district called Vieux Tours. The bulk of it is concentrated around three squares: Place du Grand Marché (the market), Place Plumereau and Place de Chateauneuf (New Castle Square).

The Mansion of the Dukes of Touraine, dates back to the 14th century. It is located in the Place de Chateauneuf, which is next to the Charlemagne Tower. The palatial residence consists of two buildings with gables overlooking a courtyard and a Gothic-style octagonal tower in between.The name Chateauneuf refers to the historic town that evolved around the Abbey of St. Martin back in the 9th century. Ruins of the ancient fortifications dating from that period are still there. In 2017, Place de Châteauneuf was renovated and gentrified as a pedestrian zone with green spaces and park benches. Wood-framed, stone-gabled townhouses that date back to the 12th-15th centuries have also been carefully restored in the spirit of the time. 

    

   

 

 

 

Place Plumereau is known for its exuberant atmosphere due to the many cafes, bars, and restaurants there. Some of us had dinner together at a bistro there. Serge was our entertainer, and he pleased us with both French and American songs. His wife worked the controls and took photos of him. And, he encouraged us to sing with him. Below is a video of everyone singing "Comme d'Habitude" whose tune Americans know as "I Did It My Way." In truth, the French song came first and Frank Sinatra adopted it. Both the French and the Americans like their own versions though. Such music and gatherings create fond memories. Music--and a good meal with friends--truly nourishes the soul. And it put a face on the city of Tours for me in a new way--beyond St. Martin and Charles Martel.

 

Resource:  GPSMYCITY