Tuesday, February 6, 2024

Chambéry, France -- Walking About Town

 

Chambéry is a city replete with architectural and cultural eye candy. Tucked in a valley at the foot of the Alps, this historical capital of the Savoy region since the 13th century eventually merged with France in 1860. However, its Italian influence remains both prominent in its architectural style and cuisine. It is an example of how the various regions of France differ from one another.

 

The history of Chambéry is closely linked to the House of Savoy and was the Savoyard capital from 1295 to 1563. The House of Savoy was an Italian royal dynasty established in 1003. The family grew in power from ruling a small Alpine county in north-west Italy to the absolute rule of the Kingdom of Sicily and the island of Sardinia from 1713 to 1720. The House of Savoy led the quest for Italian unification in 1860 and ruled the Kingdom of Italy until 1946. The last monarch was deposed following the institutional referendum of 1946, after which the Italian Republic was proclaimed.


These drawings illustrate the growth of Chambéry over nearly 400 years to accommodate today's population of  60,000.

 

Chambéry in 1645

 

Chambéry in 1780

 

Chambéry in 1864

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chambéry is located in east-central France (signified by the red dot). It is an hour east of Lyon. Its flag features a white cross on red background. License plates carry this flag as well.

 

 

 


 

 


One of the most famous and recognizable landmarks in Chambéry is the Fontaine des Éléphants (Fountain of Elephants). The 56-foot sculpture was constructed in 1838 in honor of the Duke of Savoy Benoît de Boigne for his military leadership and reputation in India (hence the elephants) where he amassed a fortune that he later donated to Chambéry through public works and welfare.

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Four life-size elephants stand one on each side of a base shaped like the savoyan (savoyarde) cross with only their heads and front legs showing. The Duke stands on top of the column. When sculpture was unveiled, residents mocked it and called it "les quatre sans culs” (the four without derrières).


 

 

Located between Bauges and Chartreuse Mountains, Chambéry is an important railway and highway hub.  

The modern railroad station contrasts significantly with the distinctive old station.

The Rotonde Ferroviaire (below) is best seen from the freeway. Hour-long tours are offered visitors who want to see the inside of this dramatically-designed station.

This huge circular cast iron behemoth was built between 1906 and 1910, which is a testament to the city's industrial heritage. The rotunda's diameter is 328 feet, and it was constructed to house up to 72 locomotives. Damage done to it during the war was restored, and it remains today a part of the railway infrastructure and a permanent home for many retired locomotives.








Rue Basse du Château is the oldest street in Chambéry. Its crevice-like alley lies in the pedestrian center of the city.

Like most old medieval arteries it is narrow and intersects with Chambéry’s other passageways. One of the remaining wooden walkways looms above connecting both sides of the street. There were many more in the past, but they were dismantled as potential fire hazards. They also blocked what little precious light was available. The stone stalls in front of several shops are known as “banches”. They served as a way of conducting business in daylight rather than in the shadowy interiors of the houses.

 

The core of Chambéry is most people’s idea of the perfect old town that is interesting and walkable and one that leads to secret courtyards and onto narrow streets and alleys. In the middle of it all is Rue Croix d’Or, a pedestrian-only street. It is draped in the Savoy colors of red and white and features cafes, crêperies, and ice cream shops.

 

We wandered around Place Saint-Léger to find a sandwich one day and our favorite Italian restaurant the next. This long street serves as Chambéry’s main pedestrian thoroughfare in the old city. The Tuesday market was also there in full force amid buildings with different styles from various eras painted in all kinds of pastel colors. The vaulted passageways that branch off the street are called allées--like our alleys in the USA.

 

The Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral of Chambéry hosted the Shroud of Turin in the 1400s. There was an attached Franciscan monastery as well. Today, the reliquary holds a Byzantine ivory altarpiece painting that dates back to the 1100s and a polychrome nativity scene from the 1400s. This neo-gothic church consists of 64,500 square feet of extravagant Italian trompe l’oeil paintings on its walls and ceilings (see below), the largest in Europe.










In 1867, during the cholera epidemic, Camille Costa de Beauregard, a young vicar of the cathedral, welcomed the children who lost their families due to the disease. They were sent here to what became the Orphanage of Bocage. This house is located on one of the city's alleys.

 

 

 

Architecture in France has a lot to offer since it spans the centuries. Here are a couple of impressive beauties.

Next to the Fountain of the Elephants is this beautiful Second Empire building. Also known as the Napoleon III style, it is a highly eclectic style of architecture and decorative arts that uses elements of many different historical styles. It also made innovative use of modern materials such as iron frameworks and glass skylights. The style flourished during the reign of Emperor Napoleon III (1852–1870) and had an important influence on architecture and decoration in the rest of Europe and North America. The architectural style was closely connected with Haussmann's renovation projects of Paris that were carried out during the Second Empire between 1853 and 1870.

 

 

The theatre of Chambéry is a small but dignified neo-classical structure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chambéry is not as popular a tourist destination as other cities in France. However, if you have extra time in France, it is definitely worth a visit.



Sources

https://www.thecrazytourist.com/15-best-things-chambery-france/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamb%C3%A9ry 


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