We drove through Slovakia on our way to Budapest, Hungary. The ride was actually enchanting. The terrain was mountainous. The forests were thick. The villages were quaint and usually dominated by a church building. This was a refreshing change from the flat terrain we had been traveling through since we left Frankfurt, Berlin, and Poland. The sun even came out a little bit.
And there were Gypsies! They live in dilapidated houses apart from everyone else, and they like it that way. They are not well-educated. Girls marry around age 15 and by age 20 they have four children. They are a huge social problem in Slovakia and in Hungary. Sylvija advised us to keep a sharp eye on our purses and backpacks walking in towns because Gypsies tend to engage in pickpocket activities.
I tried to get a photo of a house of Gypsies, but failed. Travel writer Simon Bird from Jurassic Coast in Devon, UK, visited the Gypsies of Slovakia and wrote an interesting blog post on families he visited and their history in Europe. Click here to see it. I'm also posting his photo of one family and their house. It pretty much conforms to the description we were told.
We stopped at a ski resort and had lunch in Slovakia. The cafeteria offered various dishes although choosing them was a little confusing. Prices weren't posted, and we had to resort to pointing at what we wanted not exactly knowing if we would get it. But all went well, the food was good, and we had a good break from traveling on the bus. We had a little time to buy souvenirs and I found a jaunty magnet with Slovakian goats and a couple postcards.
Slovakia has had a hard time being who she is. She was part of Czechoslovakia that were actually put together in 1918 In the 20th century, the borders of Slovakia were drawn and re-drawn depending on the powers and politics surrounding her.
1938 -- part of Nazi Germany
1939-45 -- Slovakia became part of Hungary
1945 -- Czechoslavakia re-established under pre-1938 borders except for Carpathian Ruthenia, which became part of Ukraine (under the USSR)
1948-89 -- Communists seized power in a coup and Czechoslovakia was part of the Eastern Bloc
1989 -- Czechoslovakia peacefully deposes the communist government and all of its leaders resign
1992 -- Czechoslovakia peacefully splits into two independent nations: Czech Republic and Slovakia (December 31, 1992)
Sylvija, our guide for the trip, said that both countries seem to be happy about the split. She also said that Slovakia is another example in Central Europe where the borders have constantly shifted. Sylvija told us of an elderly woman who bragged that she had lived in seven different countries--and never left her village! By the timeline, it is easy to see that.
Slovakian Culture and Products
The population in Slovakia is about 5 million and the people speak a Slavic language similar to the Czech language. It is so close that people from the two countries can understand each other in their own language! These languages are very consonant heavy. For example, KRTKO means mole. ZMRZLINA means ice cream. Here are some traditional foods that Slovakia offers. Sylvija was always good at introducing us to local and traditional foods.
Briza is a local specialty made of small gnocci-like dumplings that are served with tangy sauerkraut or potatoes inside and various toppings like melted cheese and bacon on top.
Red and white wine are also produced in Slovakia. It arrived there thanks to Empress Maria Therese (1717-1780) who loved wine.
Maria Theresa served as the Archduchess of Austria and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia from 1740-80. She was the only female ruler of the Habsburgs and one of the most capable rulers. She had an engaging naturalness and, according to one historian, was "the most human of the Habsburgs." She was a key political figure in 18th century Europe where she provided unity in a sea of diverse dominions. She was also responsible for many significant reforms and for leading Austria through several wars. In her spare time she had 16 children, 10 of which survived to adulthood.
The beer of choice made in Slovakia is Golden Pheasant--
The biggest, most important sport in Slovakia is ice hockey. Tennis is also big.
Slovakia makes car parts for Volkswagon (Germany) and Citroën (France). These parts are cheaper thanks to Slovakia's membership in the European Union; it also uses the Euro as its currency. Slovakia does not make its own cars.
Countryside Sights
The forests of Central Europe are beautiful and plentiful. It is interesting to me that after centuries of development and war that the forests have survived. Likewise the region is full of agricultural lands. To avoid sprawling towns, the houses are grouped together instead of spread out, as we do in the USA.
Churches dominate the townscape. However, it is not clear by looking at them whether they are Catholic or Protestant even though Catholicism remains the main religion. Their domes are either gothic steeples that go back to the 14th century or onion-shaped baroque domes that were influenced by the Byzantine Church. Catholicism remains the main religion in Slovakia.
Modern houses are simple and the graves in the cemetery are built above ground.
Long Houses
A peculiar type of construction for older houses are the "long houses". They are long and narrow where the front door abuts the road. The more expensive houses are sited along the river in the same way. The idea behind this kind of construction is so that the family can plan for the next generation by attaching another section of living space to the house. Sometimes a barn is attached to make the house warmer with the animals' heat. The shingles are wooden and dipped in oil. Thatched roofs are used, too, but they are more expensive.
These houses are deemed cultural treasures and therefore protected by the government. The owners of the houses are obligated to keep them up, and forbidden to tear them down.
This limestone outcropping is the site of the Orava Castle. It was once the site of an old wooden fortification built after the Mongol invasion of Hungary in 1241. Today, it is owned by the Thurzo family, a coal magnate, whose family bought the castle in the mid-16h century.
Orava Castle was originally built on land situated in the Kingdom of Hungary. Its history follows a pattern of construction, destruction,
reconstruction, fire, various ownerships, and territorial squabbles. The
original design was in Romanesque and Gothic style; it was later reconstructed as a Renaissance and Neo-Gothic structure wrappted around the 520-metre spur on which it perches.
Many scenes of the 1922 film Nosferatu were filmed here where the castle represented Count Orlok's Transylvanian castle.
Communist influence on buildings and projects
One interesting relic of the Communist era that remains is the border gate between Slovakia and Hungary. Once these countries joined the European Union, the border gates were no longer needed. Neither were the government offices or housing for border agents. They remain abandoned today.
Casinos, however, are now permitted in these days after Communism--and seem to be pretty popular given the crowded parking lot.
Although we did not spend much time in Slovakia, I found I liked it and would go back if I could. Sylvija's stories about the people and their lives showed they had a sense of grit in tackling life's difficulties and vicissitudes. Meanwhile, the countryside was engaging and beautiful.
Sources
Simon Bird and the Gypsies -- https://www.travelartist.info/slovakian-gypsies
Czechoslovakia -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Czechoslovakia
Orava Castle -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orava_Castle
Klenovecky syrec (Sheep cheese) -- https://www.tasteatlas.com/best-rated-sheeps-milk-cheeses-in-slovakia
Briza dumplings -- https://www.tasteatlas.com/best-rated-dumplings-in-slovakia
Golden Pheasant beer -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zlat%C3%BD_Ba%C5%BEant
Empress Maria Theresa -- https://www.britannica.com/biography/Maria-Theresa/Late-years
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