Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Chateau de Bouzols


Le Château de Bouzols

The Chateau de Bouzols was built in the 11th century as a fortress to protect the Loire River valley. There is nothing very beautiful about the building that we would expect from French Renaissance chateaus like the Chateau de Chenonceau or the Chateau de Chambord of north-central France. The later owners of the last quarter of the 19th century tried to spruce up the former military base by cutting out windows in the stone in order to make it a more genteel place of residence. Still, the rough-hewn basalt rock of the area's volcanic past make clear what the building was designed to be: an impregnable look-out and defensive rampart on the beautiful French countryside.


























A view from the chateau of the countryside surrounding the Loire River. Today, as in the past, the valley is populated by farmers.  






The high arch was built to accommodate riders on their horses. After the fortress became a residence, such doorways were filled in with stone and smaller doors were installed at a more human scale. 









A intriguing winding stairway in a small space.



Three generations of architecture can be seen on this side of the chateau. The rough-hewn rock and towers signal its defensive military origins. The windows were installed when the chateau became a residence at the end of the 16th and early 17th centuries. The second renovation occurred from 1876-1905 by Albert de Brive and Rose de Nolhac where the external system of protection was replaced by gardens and terraces. The couple also sought to retain existing shapes and materials in a castle that was in a state of ruin.





Other adornments to make the chateau more of a livable residence include a simple tower signifying religious faith and a decorative door latch in the shape of a snake. 

   



This lithography designed by French Romantic artist Eugene Isabey (1803-86), shows the ruins of a great fortress in the first quarter of the 19th century. The second renovation of the chateau would take place between 1876-1900. 


Although the chateau was a military post, the soldiers assigned there numbered less than twenty-five. Below are photos of the ruins of their bare and rustic quarters. The castle was protected on the south and east by surrounding walls that enclosed the medieval village. The siege of 1400, penetrated the soldiers' quarters, the most vulnerable part of the chateau.

The stairway to soldiers' quarters.

A narrow passageway leads to the soldiers' quarters.







Kitchen oven on the lower right

Lookout window



The trapezoid-shaped keep was flanked by four solid, circular look-out towers like this one.










Even in the Middle Ages people lived in groups in caves located outside the chateau. The caves provided shelter from the elements and a place to sleep. 




The chapel at the chateau provides a simple yet stunning example of the importance of religion in the lives of the people of the Middle Ages.



Above the entrance to the chapel is a reference to the Blessed Mother through the symbols of the sun and the moon (upper left and right).











The interior of the chapel is simple and plain, yet inviting. These days, mostly weddings take place here.











This tapestry exhibits an exotic scene that no one really knows much about. The palm trees seem an odd sight in a European tapestry. Perhaps they illustrate how trade routes to the East both intrigued and inspired artists.





A seige on the chateau in 1400 toppled parts of the fortress. People then used the loosened stone to build their own houses near the chateau. 





Saturday, September 22, 2018

King of the Birds Renaissance Festival


There's only one word that can describe this year's King of the Birds Festival--AWESOME.

In all the travel I have done, this was probably one of a handful of festive processions that I'd ever seen. It moved me deeply, as evidenced by my taking over 400 photos! The parade also reminded me of how grateful I was to be here in France to witness this extraordinary spectacle.

The five-day September 33-year-old event in Le Puy, the peak experience of the year, culminated in a parade of costumes down the Cathedral steps on Sunday afternoon ushered in by the King's guard in their blue and yellow uniforms.




King's banner
King's Guard








Many troops of bagpipers accompany the king. 


Crowds numbering in the thousands gathered early for a place along the parade route. Waiting for the big event to begin allowed onlookers to glimpse of what would prove to be "the Greatest Show on Earth", at least in Le Puy that day.

At the beginning of the parade, "King Francis I" and "Queen Eleanor" made an appearance....and oh they looked so royal! (see above photo)

Nobles in fine dress were also there. They certainly didn't lack in brilliant designs, colors, or royal comportment.







             






This gentleman seems to have been in many a parade--and he wasn't going to miss this one. He received an ovation from the crowd as he passed.
  

 

 





Peasants showed off their costumes and celebrated their trades.






























Kids were adorable in their costumes, which also presented to them a history of their country and culture. (Earlier in the week, whole classrooms of kids attended the festival to learn about Renaissance life.)







The King of the Birds Festival is all about archery. There is a contest for the best archer. Meanwhile, the parade featured several companies of archers.

This one looks like Little John of Robin Hood fame.




Interesting persons in their costumes both in the parade and among the crowds added to the day's spectacle.

St. Jacques


Malapropism: peasant with a cell phone
Delicious crêpes with nutella and fruity flavors on hand



Many soldiers were on hand for the parade.






 


Flute players and other musicians offered Renaissance sounds, which complemented the exquisite costumes.





Saladin



a pirate?



Flute salesman roams the crowd
   
Executioner at the ready




Laurent Wauquiez, président de la région 'Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes made an appearance in costume, too.














Toothless poor man is a hit among the crowd.

                        
               


 

 
He looks like a jaunty academic.


Another take on "flying buttresses"?