Cold Climate Christmas in Chicago

This article appeared in the Huffington Post on Thursday, December 8, 2011

It’s Christmas time so in my family that means visions of Chicago start dancing in our heads.

A few years ago my in-laws and I started a Chicago Christmas tradition, which we found to be a truly enjoyable way to spend the holiday season.  No one has to cook, clean the house or buy presents.  We spend our time and our money in this great city and enjoy the high cultural experiences it offers in the way of museums, theatre, restaurants and shopping. 

Christmas week is down time for hotels and the bargains they offer are too good to pass up.  Sometimes reservations come with upgrades to fancy rooms complete with bathrobes and a snack bar.  Lobbies are beautifully decorated in reds and greens, and staff is especially cheerful during this festive time.

Our Christmas adventure begins with a two-hour Amtrak ride from Kalamazoo to Union Station in the Loop and thus we avoid heavy traffic and parking hassles.  As the train traces the southern shore of Lake Michigan, it provides a majestic view of the Chicago skyline and whets our appetite for some great fun.

If we stay at the majestic Palmer House or the smaller Wyndham Blake, we usually walk the six blocks from the station.  Lately, we’ve enjoyed staying on the Magnificent Mile north of the river so we pick up a cab to the Sheraton (it has a pool) or the Hilton Garden Inn. 

Exhibitions

We usually go to at least one museum during the holiday.  The five most popular ones are the Art Institute of Chicago, Field Museum, Adler Planetarium, Shedd Aquarium and Museum of Science and Industry.  General admission varies from $8 to $18 with separate ticket fees for special exhibits. 

However, since the museums are a popular family destination and very crowded, we’ve learned to go to one museum per day first thing in the morning.  It’s less crowded and not much of a wait to enter.

For a truly unique and living history experience, the walking tours at the Chicago Architecture Foundation are a truly interesting excursion. We’ve taken the two-hour historical skyscraper tour and the art deco tour but the CAF offers over 100 tours throughout the downtown and city neighborhoods. 

Volunteer docents proudly discuss various topics about the city’s architectural legacy that began with the Chicago World’s Fair of 1893, a symbol of the city’s comeback after the 1871 fire destroyed nearly all of the downtown’s four square miles. 

Tours vary in price and topic.  The CAF is located at 224 S. Michigan Avenue directly across from the Art Institute and tickets may be purchased in advance or on the day of the tour.  The reception area sells books and media on architecture, cityscape Legos and puzzles, and Institute-named merchandise.

Further north on Michigan Avenue is Millennium Park, now a Chicago landmark.  Completed in July 2004, construction began in the late 1990's over what was once an unused rail yard and an eyesore. 

The park features the Anish Kapoor's Cloudgate sculpture, a.k.a. “the Bean,” which is so crazy a thing in the way it bends and reflects images.  I'm not necessarily one for kooky modern art but this one works for me. 

The Crown Fountain doesn’t run during the winter so this is a good reason to return to the city during warmer weather and see the different faces that appear on this funky art piece. 

In winter, an ice rink just below “The Bean” brings out local ice skaters who glide gracefully to Christmas tunes and rock ‘n roll.  From time to time the Zamboni comes out to resurface the ice as skaters and onlookers allow themselves to be mesmerized by it.

Restaurants

The restaurants of Chicago offer everything from hot dogs and pizza to gourmet ethnic fare.

Among my favorites is Russian Tea Time around the corner from the Palmer House and half a block away from the Art Institute on West Adams.  The décor is rich in elegant reds, and the slightly-dimmed lights and soft balalaika music create an intimate atmosphere. 

Russian wait staff with names like Natasha and Dimitri provide attentive service with traditional Russian, Ukranian and Jewish dishes of wild game, poultry, specialty meat dishes as well as vegetarian fare. If we can’t decide which dish to choose, we order the combination plates. 

Appetizers include potato piroshki (mini turnovers), blinchiki (crepes), latkes (potato pancakes), vareniky (potato, pumpkin or asparagus dumplings) and cavier.  It’s important to eat slowly because the food tends to be a little heavy.

Entrees come with the flavorful Tashkent carrot salad seasoned with coriander and garlic vinaigrette and the borscht is unbelievably good.

Then there’s the vodka, which constitutes a very special, if not hallowed, ceremony.  The waiter teaches guests the bona fide way of drinking vodka, a good ritual to take home to dazzle friends with—and keep warm in the winter.  Nastroviah!

Russian Tea Time also features a full and an a la carte afternoon tea service of oolong, green and black teas with raisin scones—with whipping cream and marmalade, of course—tea sandwiches and “mini-sweets” of Napoleons, cookies and apple pie.

Actually, afternoon tea is a favorite Chicagoan thing to do.  There are several places all over the city that offer it; just google “afternoon tea in Chicago.”  We’ve enjoyed tea at the Drake and the Peninsula best. 

We have stopped for lunch at The Berghoff further down West Adams but recent changes haven’t measured up to the food and service it had prior to February 2006 when it closed after 107 years.  However, so strong were Chicagoans’ sentiments for this fine tradition of good German food and beer—complete with an old-fashioned saloon at lunch—that the fourth generation of founder Herman Joseph Berghoff re-opened the place and made it into a casual dining and catering operation. 

The turn-of-the-20^th-century décor with its bold woodwork, stained glass, checkered floors and brass light fixtures are a treat to behold but I miss the brisk waiters, some of whom had been working there for 30 years.  The Berghoff is housed in one of Chicago’s oldest buildings erected after the 1871 fire.  It’s well worth a visit to this food icon.

For steak, Morton’s can’t be beat.  The waiter rolls out a cart with various cuts of meat designed to satisfy the size of any appetite.  Jumbo baked Idaho® potatoes are served with a choice of appetizers, soups, salads, side dishes and yummy desserts.  Morton’s has seafood, too. 

The original basement restaurant at the State and Rush Street with its rich wood and grotto-like feel is the place where celebrities have come over the years, which we prefer.  A more modern version of Morton’s is near the river at 65 East Wacker Place. 

Another great steak place is Stetson’s Lounge at the Hyatt Regency on the river.  Its smaller portions and more hip ambience go well with the evening music of a single piano player or jazz combo that is loud enough to hear but soft enough to talk to table mates.

Last year we discovered an enchanting place that transported us to the tropical city of Saigon of the 1920s:  The Colonial at 937 N. Rush Street. 

The dining room’s louvered shutters, tiled floors, crudely painted walls, ceiling fans and rattan chairs amid a lush selection of potted palm and banana trees creates an ambience that leaves no doubt in your mind about why The Colonial has been rated one of Chicago’s most romantic restaurants.

The food complements the décor with authentic French Vietnamese cuisine of delicately prepared fish, shrimp, pork, filet mignon and vegetarian dishes with those marvelous peanut sauce, ginger, coconut and lemongrass flavorings.

We have our Christmas dinner at the Star of Siam on 11 E. Illinois Street and N. State Street.  We stumbled on this fantastic Thai restaurant during our first Christmas in Chicago—and what a find!  We were looking for a place to eat and it was the only place open.  Most restaurants are closed so workers can enjoy the holiday with their families.

The urban warehouse setting of open space, wood floor, red brick and exposed pipes go well with red cushions and artistic Thai wall hangings.  The menu provides all the traditional Thai foods but the Star does it with gourmet style and flare. 

With all this gourmet food, we found it necessary to pace ourselves so we usually start out with a simple breakfast at the Corner Bakery.  They are everywhere and they offer hot oatmeal, eggs, croissants and as well as sweet things, savory panini, fresh fruits and salads, and hearty bowls of soups and pasta.  The lemon pumpkin pound cake and cinnamon crème cake are simple treats to die for.  

Entertainment

Chicago has all kinds of theatre in various venues.  The website, www.theatreinchicago.com, provides the most comprehensive listing with dates, times and ticket information. 

One of our special pleasures is the Joffrey Ballet.  The company performs “The Nutcracker” during most of December at the incredible Auditorium Theatre (http://auditoriumtheatre.org/wb/).  Constructed by famed architects Dankmar Adler and Louis Sullivan, the theatre has been a mainstay of Chicago architecture and theatre since 1889, and it is known internationally for its perfect acoustics, innovative architecture and stunning design.

We do take a break from our more serious outings for an evening with Second City.  Young comedians perform sketch comedy and improv with shows every night of the week.  They leave us laughing with short scenes, songs, and improvised comedy sketches. Cocktails and food are available throughout the show in this dinner-theatre venue.

Chicago is famous for its blues music but long before the blues, it was famous for its jazz.  Music clubs abound in the city to suit all tastes and the Internet provides several blogs and reviews of each.

One tradition Chicagoans and out-of-towners alike make is a stop at the Christmas display windows at Macy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s until August 2005) on State Street, that Great Street.  This is one of the oldest and largest department stores of America and it arouses a bit of nostalgia for the good old days when downtown department stores were king. 

A big part of the nostalgia is breakfast or lunch at the Walnut Room restaurant on the seventh floor.  Opened in 1907, it is one of Chicago's most beloved landmarks.  It has a 17-foot marble fountain, amid the original Circassian walnut paneling and Austrian chandeliers.  Potpies are the house specialty made from Mrs. Hering's original recipe.  Don’t miss the Great Tree right outside the restaurant. 

After-Christmas sales flourish throughout the retail district but the variety and quality of the stores makes their bargains much sweeter buys.  How many cities can boast an impressive array of stores such as Bloomingdales, Nieman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Ann Taylor as well as Macy’s, Filene’s Basement, Eddie Bauer, Patagonia, Ralph Lauren, The Disney Store, Apple, Best Buy, Crate & Barrel, American Girl, The Lego Store, The Body Shop—all in one place?

There is so much to do in Chicago but sometimes we just relax and spend time together in our hotel room and watch movies.  Fox & Obel around the corner of the Sheraton provides us with a great snack fare of crackers, cheese, nuts and cheesecake with a little wine and/or soda.  It has been recognized as the best gourmet food market in Chicago.  Sometimes we pick up treats at Whole Foods.

It may be cold in Chicago but we have found that spending Christmas there warms our hearts and stimulates our minds to wonderful memories and experiences in this great city.

This Is What a Leader Looks Like

This article appeared in Energy Bulletin on November 21, 2011.

Say what you will about former Mayor Richard M. Daley of Chicago (1989-2011) and his strong-arm tactics, but you’ve got to admit that the man has vision and an ability to execute it.

This short, stocky, never-say-die, Irish Catholic grew up on the Southside of Chicago and learned the means and meaning of public service from his tough-guy father, Mayor Richard J. Daley (1955-76).  He is one whiz-bang leader and his 22-year tenure—the longest of any of the city’s mayors—proves it.

Dubbed in 2005 as one of the “Nation’s Top Urban Executives” by Time magazine, Daley has improved Chicago’s schools, revitalized the downtown, reduced crime, diversified the economy and helped the city become one of the most environmentally-friendly cities in the world.  He has earned an international reputation as an innovator in urban development, fiscal policy and government stewardship and many of his forward-looking policies have been emulated in cities around the globe.

These days he is a Distinguished Senior Fellow at the University of Chicago's Harris School of Public Policy; a member of the International Advisory Board for the Russian Direct Investment Fund; and a senior adviser to JP Morgan Chase, where he chairs the new "Global Cities Initiative" that helps cities to identify and leverage their greatest economic development resources.  He also co-chairs the U.S. State Department's "100,000 Strong Initiative Advisory Committee" that supports the U.S. government's efforts to send American students to study in China.

He spoke to 2,000 people at the Economic Club of Southwestern Michigan held this week at Lake Michigan College in Benton Township, which is ironically located just next door to Benton Harbor, the first city in the state to be taken over by an emergency financial manager.  (EFMs are governor-appointed bosses who have absolute power in order to fix a local government or school district that is experiencing severe financial difficulty.)

Daley wooed his mostly conservative audience as he described the strategies behind his achievements.  He is no policy wonk but instead a smart, straight talking, future-oriented thinker.  Someone even asked him to consider running for president.  After his speech I heard one man say to another that Daley “didn’t sound like a Democrat.”

Actually, Daley appears to be a hybrid of the country’s two major political parties.  What distinguishes him is that he is a man who loves his city and aggressively looked for ways to make it a beautiful and good place to live as well as an economically viable place to do business.  He quickly recognized he couldn't depend on the federal government or anyone else to knock on his door to help.  So he reached out to both the public and private sectors as well as to officials in the suburbs and surrounding cities to form various coalitions that “focus on what unites us.”  Some people have characterized him as a model 21^st century leader.

“Cities and regions must develop a vision and work relentlessly to achieve it,” he said.  “That way we can leverage our influence nationally and globally.”

He pointed out that working separately in “silos” is no longer effective because the competition is too stiff.  Pitting one city against another works against each other's interests.  He is especially keen on regional collaboration and declared the Great Lakes region as “one of the most dynamic regions in America.” 

For example, Illinois, Wisconsin, Indiana, Michigan and Ohio produce more products than Canada, Italy and Spain combined, he said. 

Even the Chinese are impressed with the economic diversity of the Midwest—especially in agriculture, water and manufacturing—and they see Chicago as a gateway.

This may all seem counter-intuitive as people still insist on calling this region “the Rust Belt” due to its decimated industrial base.  Daley quoted Economist magazine which indicated in 1981 that Chicago was a “backwater” that had become “economically invalid” and was “losing its industry without a replacement.” 

However, the economy has returned and it is “buzzing with life,” he said.  “We wrote a different ending.”

Likewise, Daley pointed out that the decisions and investments cities make today will determine what the region will look like 25 years from now. 

“We must not be afraid of the future,” he said.

Among those decisions is an investment in infrastructure, which is old and outdated.  However, financing such multi-billion dollar projects will require public-private partnerships that pool their resources.  He illustrated this strategy with the lease of the Chicago Skyway that was worth nearly $2 billion and used to repay the city’s debts. 

Secondly, he said citizens have a moral and legal responsibility to educate every child. 

“Education promises a strong economic future for them, which is the essence of the future of America.”

In 1995 Daley asked the state legislature for responsibility over the Chicago Public Schools despite his political advisers’ warnings that it would be a career-ender:  the Democrats would trash him to protect the teachers’ union and the Republicans would claim that government couldn’t manage the schools. 

Under the “Modern Schools Across Chicago” program, he renovated 19 schools and constructed 48 new schools, which were financed with city redevelopment funds from Tax Increment Financing districts--and no state or federal funds.

Q&A session

He also encouraged the revisions of basic programs in reading, writing and math as well as the creation of charter schools, military academies and math/science academies.  To prepare children for future job opportunities, he instituted language programs in Arabic, Chinese and Russian.  Likewise, he changed the “culture of education” by emphasizing technology and building 50 libraries.

Inherent in this strategy of providing quality education is the idea that “talented people make other talented people around them.”  He aimed to make Chicago a mecca for talent so that citizens could deal with its many urban problems as well as to make a place for itself in the global economy.

Seeing to it that people have jobs is the clarion call for today’s economic woes and Daley stressed that to repair the economy, communities must also consider the assets they have.  Water is the chief asset of the Great Lakes region and protecting it is essential both in attracting people to the area and in using it to economic advantage.

“You have to understand the complexity and the interconnectedness of the whole system,” he said, pointing out that the Great Lakes involves hundreds of cities, several states, Canada and that it affects the nation as a whole. 

Water is also crucial to agriculture, one thing the Chinese readily recognize--and don't have in abundance, he said. 

“Cities and regions can lead the way by being green,” he said, even though he admitted that the environmental challenges facing cities are overwhelming as urbanization grows toward 70 to 80 percent worldwide. 

“There are huge economic and social problems and we have to get something from each city, meet with them, learn from each other, and come back with ideas.”

For example, in 2003 Daley co-founded with Toronto’s Mayor David Miller the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence Cities Initiative, which is a coalition of U.S. and Canadian mayors that advance the protection and restoration of the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence River.  By integrating their environmental, economic and social agendas, local governments are helping to sustain a resource that represents approximately 20 percent of the world’s surface freshwater supply, provides drinking water for 40 million people, and is the foundation upon which a strong regional economy is based. 

“Everybody benefits,” he said, “cities, townships, counties, regions.”

In 1997 Daley was also involved in gathering 273 mayors in the Chicago area to form the Metropolitan Mayors Caucus and tackle such critical issues as economic development, school funding and tax reform, workforce readiness, energy reliability and security, air quality, funding for transportation and other infrastructure, housing, and emergency preparedness.  In this way they were able to speak with a unified voice to the legislative chambers of Springfield and Washington.

Daley urged caucus members to follow three major tenents: 

• If we don’t work together, we will slowly die on the vine. 
• No one gets all the rewards; rather, everyone gets a piece of the pie. 
• By using the linkages you have, you don’t have to start a project from scratch all over again. 

“We know that the metropolitan areas that work together will be the ones that succeed in the global economy of the 21^st Century,” said Daley.  “We need to look at America differently, otherwise we will look to the past, which is not relevant to the global economy of today and the future.”

Mayor Daley poses with members of the audience

In helping to secure that future, Chicago leads the way in protecting the environment with green roofs, a public transit system that offers efficient alternatives to driving, a bicycling program with more than 165 miles of bike-ways, and energy efficiency programs to help Chicagoans save thousands of dollars.

To make these strides he gathered 230 suburbs with the city as well as representatives from business, higher education and advocacy groups to write and execute the Chicago Climate Action Plan. 

Dozens of experts and a nationally recognized research adviser committee also took part in discussions as did leading scientists who described various scenarios for Chicago’s climate future and ways these would impact life in the city.

“We didn’t blame anyone,” he said.  “We all worked together to solve the problem.”

As mayor, Daley has changed the conversation in the city and put it on a new path towards economic growth and a high quality of life.  What has driven him in this quest is his commitment to public service.

Politicians should act more like “public servants” rather than “ideological warriors,” he said.  He worked with Presidents Clinton, Bush and Obama to help his city—something he learned from his father who supported all the presidents regardless of party and who respected the office of the presidency. 

Likewise, Daley conducted himself as mayor of all Chicagoans regardless of whether they were Democrats or voted for him.  He also appealed to President George W. Bush for money in numerous rebuilding projects and received more federal dollars from him than any other president.

Everyone wants President Obama to be FDR, he said.  At the same time they try to dilute the power of the presidency.  Everyone is caught up in this and they seem willing to give more power to the bureaucracy, which makes for a less effective president. 

Government regulations are another sore spot for Daley, especially when it comes to environmental regulations.  He admitted the Industrial Revolution created a great deal of pollution.  At the same time it put people to work who also became a part of the middle class. 

Regulations are needed but what we really need is an energy policy, he said. 

Like most politicians, and Daley surely is one, his tenure was not without controversy.  There were patronage issues, privatization deals that fell through, the takeover of a lake shore airport, a parking meter rate hike once it was in the hands of a private company and a $655 million debt.  On the social front he tried to heal race relations but tore down "the projects" where many poor African Americans lived.  He was outspoken for his support of gun control and same-sex marriage; he opposed the war in Iraq. 

He doesn’t appear apologetic or remorseful for these things but rather confident that his achievements will have lasting effect and inspire other cities to move forward toward their own futures.  

“We in the United States have got to get back to believing in ourselves,” he said.  “We can create an America that is better than the last century.” 

It strikes me that this is the kind of leadership and spirit we need in our politicians.