Friday, January 26, 2018

A Trip to the Local Bouchon



I had cervelle d'agneau meunière at the Tête de Lard bouchon one Friday night with some of my classmates from the Inflexyon language school. We wanted an authentic Lyonnais experience and figured the bouchon was probably the best way to get it. 

A bouchon is a traditional restaurant of Lyon. It uses animal organs from cows, ducks, pigs, and sheep to make such dishes as andouillette (sausage of intestines and/or blood), foie de veau (veal liver), tête de veau (veal head), échine de cocher (pork spine), onglet de boeuf (beef tab on the stomach), and cervelle d'agneau (sheep brains). 

My classmates and I felt that this sounded like pretty gruesome fare, but eating all parts of the animal instead of just the muscle is a testament to the French aversion to wastefulness as well as a celebration of tasty, rustic peasant food. The dishes are typically fatty given the types of meats used, and they are nowhere near the lighter and fancier haute cuisine we usually associate with French food. 

Bouchons originated in the 18th century through "the Lyon mothers." As the website, Les Bouchons Lyonnais states: 
[The mothers] were cooks from humble origins. They set up their own businesses after working for bourgeois families in Lyon. The Mothers cooked simple and refined food. They used inferior cuts as they were in the habit of not throwing anything away. 
The Lyon mothers flourished during the inter-war period. The impact of the war and the 1929 economic crisis were to change the face of Lyon’s cuisine. A lot of these cooks were dismissed from the homes where they worked. This is when they opened their own restaurants… much to our delight! Workers, celebrities and rich businessmen sat side by side at their tables, in a friendly atmosphere!

Among the most famous mothers were Mère Françoise Fillioux (1865-1925) and More Eugénie Brazier (1895-1977), dubbed the "Mother of Modern French Cooking." She was the first woman to win three Michelin stars and among her famous protegés is Paul Bocuse. Mère Fillioux also earned three Michelin stars. For more information about the mothers, check out Lyonresto.com.

The Bouchons are anxious to guarantee both the quality of products and cuisine as well as the authenticity of their tradition, which includes the bouchon's welcome, ambience, and respect for Lyon's history and heritage. In 1997, Pierre Grison created the organization, L'Association de Défense des Bouchons Lyonnais (Association for the Preservation of Lyonnais Bouchons), which certifies bouchons as "authentic." There are about 20 officially certified bouchons in Lyon and the Tete de Lard is among them.

Typical items in the bouchon repertoire include:
Soup
Tripe soup, pumpkin soup

Salads and cold appetizers
Chicken liver salad, pork head cheesegroins d'âne salad (literally, "donkey snout" salad), marinated herringssalade Lyonnaise (lettuce with baconcroutonsmustarddressing, and a poached egg)

Hot appetizers
gateau de volaille (chicken liver cake), boudin noir (blood sausage, usually served with warm apples)

Offal
Andouillette (pork offal sausage), assorted offal gratintablier de sapeur

Fish
Stingray, quenelles (ground fish dumplings), grilled fillets

Meat
Coq au vinpot au feu (pot roast), chicken thighs stuffed with morels

Vegetables
Cardoon à la moelle (in bone marrow), barbotonpailasson de Lyon

Cheese
Saint-MarcellinSaint-FélicienRigotte de Condrieu

Desserts
tarte praline (praline tart), lemon meringue pie, caramelized apples, bugnes de Lyon(miniature beignets)


One of the great perks of the Inflexyon school is that it provides students with the opportunity to meet other students from all over the world. My new friends here represented the countries of Brazil, China, Hong Kong, Iraq, Japan, and Thailand. I was one of the few Americans at the school, however, nearly everyone I met spoke English, which is routinely accepted as a universal language. However, during our dinner at the bouchon, we all spoke French. Our instructors would be proud of us!


At first, it was a little difficult to choose from the menu options because the dishes were so unfamiliar. In fact, we took out our cell phones to look up words that described the dishes. Once I found cervelle, however, I knew I had to have it. My Dad ate brains when he served in France during World War II, so I wanted to try them. He said they looked like cauliflower but were more tasty. My cervelle was light with a crusty finish to its soft but not mealy interior. The lemon, butter and parsley meunière sauce made it tangy. 

Meunière refers to both sauce and a method of preparation. Cooking something à la meunière requires that the meat is first dredged in seasoned flour and then sautéd in brown butter, chopped parsley, and lemon. Meunière means "miller's wife" in French, which refers to its non-elaborate rustic nature.



Since my friends and I had almost everything on the menu, we could see and taste each other's dishes. We generally found the food good and tasty and its appearance not at all what we imagined. But as one other student who had eaten at a bouchon a couple weeks before said, "In order to try the food, you have to get over the fact of what it is." As is evident in the following photos, the chef knew how to present the food to make it both appetizing and appealing.  

The bouchon once again demonstrates my contention that every food they make in France is great.



The menu board at La Tête de Lard was simple and affordable. Each plat (main dish) included a complementary appetizer of crispy pork rinds and saucisson (pork sausage). Hmmm, good!















We also received a casserole dish of au gratin potatoes to share among us.






Below are photos of my friends' dishes.




Lyonnaise salad with a soft-boiled egg to drape thick pieces of bacon and fresh lettuce.

Foie de veau persille
(calf's liver with parsley sauce)


Onglet de boeuf sauce St. Marcellin (tab of beef with a sauce made from St. Marcellin cheese mixed with cream, stock, mushrooms) 
Tête de veau (veal head) in gribiche sauce (mayonnaise-style cold hard-boiled egg yolks, mustard, and oil finished with chopped pickled cucumbers, capers, parsley, chervil and tarragon)

Échine de cocher à la crème de lard (pork spine with a sauce of cream and bacon)








Monday, January 8, 2018

Thank God for French Pop Music




Being in France has been nothing short of an exciting adventure for me. One of my most important discoveries has been French popular music. Lately I've been copying the words and singing along as we used to do in high school French class every Friday. Songs help me to practice articulating French sounds and become familiar with common phrases so that I don't have to think about them. 

My favorite vehicles to music is  Cherie radio (100.6) and the game show, "N'Oubliez Pas Les Paroles" (Don't forget the words). Learning French through music makes my heart sing (no pun intended). The music is is melodic and infectious, and I wanted to share it with you, courtesy of YouTube. They are divided by the artists (but not prioritized) with an English translation of each marked in blue. Get a taste of France's popular music and enjoy it. 


Celine Dion
(Celine Dion is French Canadian and she's been around a long time, but I've just discovered her--and, je l'adore!!) 
Je Ne Vous Oublie Pas      English


S'il Suffisait D'aimer        English 


Calogero 

Je joue de la musique     English  



Fondamental      English 


Fréro Delavega 

Le Chant Des Sirènes      English  



Autour de moi  English 



Kids United

On Ecrit Sur Les Murs    English



Amir 
J'ai Cherché    English 


Vianney

Les filles d’aujourd'hui      English




Lara Fabian 

Je T'aime        English



Je Suis Malade      English



Claudio Capéo 

Riche     English


Louane


Si t’étais là     English


La Famille Bélier - Je vole       English



Maman   English



Avenir        English




Julien Doré 

Coco Câline         English





Jean-Jacques Goldman, Sirima 

Là-bas          English



Jasmine Thompson (British)

Mad World - Tears for Fears

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Rock It with Raclette



On Sunday we had a traditional French dish of the Alpine mountains called raclette, and it was delightful, fun, and historic.

The term "raclette" is derived from the French word, racler, which means "to scrape," a reference to the fact that the melted cheese is scraped onto boiled red potatoes. 

The electric table-top grill is heated. On the bottom layer (see below) is the place for the little pans called coupelleswhich melt the cheese. Our grill also had a stone for keeping the potatoes warm.






Our grill had space for 8 coupelles. 

The cheese had already been cut so that it could be placed into the coupelles and heated.

It takes the cheese about 5 minutes to melt. 





You can prepare your potatoes by peeling them or, if you don't want to wait to put more cheese on more potatoes, just leave on the skin. 










Once the cheese is melted, you just slide the cheese onto the potatoes. A little wooden stick helps this process, although our coupelles were teflon-coated so they slid off easily.






Raclette is served with ham, salami, gherkins, pickled onions, and white wine like Savoie, Riesling, or Pinot Gris. We had a Savoie wine.




Raclette cheese is a semi-hard cheese made from cow's milk that has been aged for 3-6 months and fashioned into a wheel about 13 pounds (6 kg). 


History of Raclette
Raclette is originally a Swiss dish eaten by peasants in the mountainous Alpine regions of Valais (Switzerland) and the Savoie and Haute-Savoie (France). It was mentioned in medieval texts dating back to 1291. Cow herders used to take the cheese with them when they were moving cows through the mountains, melt the cheese in their evening campfires, and scrape it on bread. Other peasants used potatoes.  

Melted cheese in France is called "fondue" and like the fondue parties of the 1980s, raclette dining is a leisurely sociable affair of eating and drinking. Restaurants are also known to provide raclette parties for their clientele.




Tuesday, November 21, 2017

More Goofs and Gaffes with French


Ménage 
There are three meanings to this word and that only through the conversation will you know what someone is talking about:

-- housework 
-- the household
-- marriage

If there's one thing I'm learning about the French language, it is that it is highly contextual!





Bisous -- bison
There is definitely a difference between kisses (pronounced BE-sue) and bison (pronounced BE-zone).







Ready to wear or ready to live?


habiller = to wear
habiter = to live 











Dodo -- dos-d'âne

There's a big difference between getting an infant or small child to sleep (pronounced:  dō DŌ) and getting over a speed bump (pronounced:  dō DAHN). The second refers to the back of a donkey.





lever -- laver -- lever -- élever -- réveiller


Which way is up???  Again, it depends on how you say it.

lever (le-vay) = get up
laver (la-vay) = wash up
lever (leu-vay) = raise up
élever (A-leu-vay) = elevate up
réveiller (ray-vay-yay) = wake up


pluie -- il pleut -- il pleure

Keeping these words straight is the ultimate challenge (défi).


          pluie (plu-ee) = rain
          il pleut (eel ploo) = it's raining
          il pleure (eel pler) he's crying 















recto verso -- reversible






There is a big difference between copying on both sides (recto verso) of a piece of paper and wearing a reversible (reversible) coat or jacket.

















desert -- dessert
Just as in English, these two words mean different things through their pronunciation.




dE-zer is the place of sand and a lack of water








dess-ER is what you eat at the end of a meal







seulement -- saumon


It was at the end of my meal at a restaurant and I asked "only for tea." However, what came out was my asking for salmon because of my mispronunciation of the word for "only." After my hosts realized my mistake, they directed the confused waiter to give me the tea I wanted. I had left the le out of seulement

Seulement is pronounced se-le-mont.
Saumon is pronounced sa-mon



Tuesday, November 14, 2017

The Montgolfieres Are Here!



The Montgolfieres were seen flying everywhere in the Le Puy-en-Velay area last weekend. 

Montgolfiere is French for hot-air balloon. It was named after the French brothers who invented it.

The annual hot-air balloon festival was held November 10-12. This year there were 50 pilots from 21 different countries. One balloonist even came from England via air to participate. Prior to the weekend local residents could see several balloons launched over the city (see above).  

The French seem to be crazy about hot-air balloons and Le Puy is just one of several festivals that take place annually. This year there were about 1,000 balloons were piloted by 3,000 people, many of them (70%) coming from outside the country. 



A Short History of Ballooning
Hot air balloon in 1783

According to Balloon.org, on September 19, 1783, Pilatre De Rozier, a scientist, launched the first hot air balloon called 'Aerostat Reveillon'. They demonstrated their invention for King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette at the French court in Paris. The passengers were a sheep, a duck and a rooster and the balloon stayed in the air for a grand total of 15 minutes before crashing back to the ground.

The first manned attempt came about 2 months later on  October 15, 1783 with a balloon made by 2 French brothers, Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier. Jacques made a solo flight. The balloon was launched from the centre of Paris and flew for a period of 20 minutes. This was the birth of hot air ballooning!!! 
The balloon was attached to the ground by a rope. The first free flight, without being attached to the ground, was a few weeks later, on 21 November 1783. It carried Marquis François d'Arlandes and Pilatre de Rozier. Memes.

In 1978, the Double Eagle II became the first balloon to cross the Atlantic, another major benchmark in the History of Ballooning.

The first Pacific crossing was achieved 3 years later in 1981. The Double Eagle V launched from Japan on November 10th and landed 84 hours later in Mendocino National Forest, California. 

Finally, in 1999 the first around the world flight was completed by Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones. Leaving from Switzerland and landing in Africa, they smashed all previous distance records, flying for 19 days, 21 hours and 55 minutes.

Around the World in Eighty Days



Le Tour du Monde en Quatre-vingts Jours is a classic adventure novel by the French writer, JulesVerne that features a hot-air balloon. It was  published in 1873. In the story, Phileas Fogg of London and his newly employed French valet Passepartout attempt to circumnavigate the world in 80 days on a £20,000 wager (the approximate equivalent of £2 million in 2016) set by his friends at the Reform Club. It is one of Verne's most acclaimed works.


Saturday, November 11, 2017

Armistice Day in Le Puy



It was a gray day today. Not too cold but no wind. At 10:30 a.m. people gathered in Place du Martouret to commemorate the dead of two world wars that devastated this country and two generations of its people. Today is Armistice Day.



Military officers, gendarmes, city officials, police, and fire fighters joined local citizens in forming a circle in the square in between the city hall and the Memorial Tree. This tree was planted as a war memorial after World War I. Different representatives placed wreaths of blue-white-red flowers before it.


















Veterans proudly held flags representing their various military associations.








There were speeches of remembrance by various military and local leaders. They talked about the bravery and courage of the soldiers and the need to remember them and their sacrifice for the freedom of the people.

It was moving to see the size of the crowd that attended the ceremony. It was also moving to witness the presence of young people who participated as readers, scouts, and Red Cross volunteers. Below they are carrying one of the flower wreaths and accompanied by the mayor and other dignitaries of the town.


















Most towns have a war memorial in the center square. In fact, 36,000 memorials were erected in France between 1920-25 with the inscription "à nos morts" (to our dead). You can also see war memorial plaques in churches with the same inscription. Every year on the morning of November 11, mayors, local authorities and military officials pay tribute to the fallen of both world wars. 





In Paris, Armistice Day ceremonies take place at the Arc de Triomph. The President lays a wreath on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at 11 a.m. followed by two minutes of silence: the first minute is for soldiers and civilians who died and the second is for the bereaved families left behind. The eternal Flame of Remembrance is rekindled by the President as it is every evening at 6:30 p.m. by associations of war veterans throughout the year. Below is a video of President Macron and his participation in the Armistice ceremonies in Paris.




La Der Des Der

The warring parties agreed to a ceasefire to come into effect at 11 am on 11 November 1918: “the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month”.

World War I was originally called The World War or The Great War because it was believed to have been the war to end all wars—right up until World War II began. In French, this belief was immortalized in the expression "la der des der," a double apocope of la dernière (guerre) des derrières (guerres), meaning "the war to end all wars."

While the sentiment and will were heartfelt and serious, somehow the world has been unable to keep its commitment. WWI ended in 1918 and WWII began in 1939. Scores of wars all over the world have also broken out ever since--and people continue to hold memorial services for their dead. 


Soldiers of the 353rd Infantry near a church at Stenay, Meuse in France.
Soldiers of the 353rd Infantry near a church at Stenay, Meuse in France, wait for the end of hostilities.  This photo was taken at 10:58 a.m., on November 11, 1918, two minutes before the armistice ending World War I went into effect.


Veterans Day in the USA

According to the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs, President Woodrow Wilson proclaimed November 11 as the first commemoration of Armistice Day in 1919 with the following: 


"To us in America, the reflections of Armistice Day will be filled with solemn pride in the heroism of those who died in the country’s service and with gratitude for the victory, both because of the thing from which it has freed us and because of the opportunity it has given America to show her sympathy with peace and justice in the councils of the nations…"
 The original concept for the celebration was for a day observed with parades and public meetings and a brief suspension of business beginning at 11:00 a.m.


May the service of all those who fought in the wars--both the living and the dead--be remembered. And, may we continue to try to keep the peace so that the sacrifices these brave men and women made will not be in vain.