Blesle: Another Sunny Day, Another Medieval Town, Another Picnic

 

It started with a map attached to a French travel magazine about the Auvergne region. Blesle was highlighted as a medieval town with a history that designated it as one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" (Most Beautiful Villages of France). Two Benedictine abbeys for women were founded there, and the town was only 90 minutes northwest of Le Puy. We had to go there!

Getting there, of course, would mean going through the mountains on two-lane highways, some of which were so rural, they didn't even have a dividing line for two-way traffic let alone enough space for two cars to pass. However, as usual, a little persistence and patience brought us to a place that not only whetted our interest but inspired our delight of discovery.

We brought a picnic lunch with us but couldn't find a park or place to land for our hearty repast of ham sandwiches, potato chips, apples, and chocolate in this busy little burg of 635 people (2018). We followed the main road through town, which sometimes became so narrow, I thought it was an alley! So we pressed onward and after 10 minutes of forest and mountains, we came upon a river, a bench, and a place to park the car at St. Etienne-sur-Blesle. 

There was really not much there, there--at least in the present tense. The old Benedictine abbey for women had been abolished in 1353 and was a crumbling heap of stone. An empty factory built in 1747 lay dormant just waiting for someone to pick up the pieces and begin again. Some beautiful but isolated houses found solace in the nothingness of the mountains. A western-style log cabin with a "saloon" sign and an old, rusted-out car nestled itself at the foot of one mountain that sported some intriguing rock formations.

Our picnic site provided us with a bench to sit on, a babbling stream behind us, mountains in front of us, an abandoned convent above us, and a beautiful stone church down the road. What seemed like the middle of nowhere had provided us with an interesting feast of ocular delight.

 The Voireuze River flows through St. Etienne-sur-Blesle and Blesle before it connects to the Alagnon River (54 miles long), the Allier River (7 miles long) and finally the Loire River (625 miles long), which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. Fishing is a popular sport here with good stocks of salmon, brown trout, and other river fish. Hiking and geocaching are also popular in this area.  

The basalt rock mountains were formed by the Cézallier volcano. Rivers then carved out the area's valleys and plateaus.  

This church dates from the 19th century, but it originated as a small chapel built between 1735-1738. In 2006, the town restored the interior of the church thanks to a resident's generous donation.

 

 

 

 

 

Posing with a bit of geologic history.

This structure was a Benedictine abbey for women founded in the 9th century, but closed in 1353. The site was abandoned in the 18th century. 

 

This heap of stone gave me pause to reflect on religious life today, which is now experiencing a decline in numbers and the selling off of properties that once accommodated the huge mid-20th century peaks in vocations. Religious life has ebbed and flowed throughout history, but sisters believe the charism of their community endures because it was and still is inspired by the Holy Spirit. 

 

For example, Cluny, the Benedictine abbey located about an hour north of Lyon, was more powerful and influential than even the Vatican in the 12th century. Today, it is a mere skeleton of itself with only its incredible footprint to remind us of its former greatness. Thousands of monks passed through its chapels, courts, and corridors, and then spread to all corners of the globe witnessing the Gospel and doing the good works of Christ. What mysteries lie within the walls of these old religious buildings? What strength did they summon for their followers? What witness to faith did they give?

Another view of the abbey's buildings with more questions arising about how these buildings were built on this hill high above the road and in such a remote place. It's logical to see why the abbey was built in this place: isolation from the mainstream of life,  subsistence, and communal living are the hallmarks of cloister whose members seek solitude for a life of prayer and meditation.  

 

  One of the doors of the abbey inspired more reflections. How many people went through it during its multi-century years of its existence? What was it like for the last of its residents to close that door for the last time?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This amazing mid-18th century factory foreshadows the age of industrialization in 19th Europe. Now in the 21st century, it looks as though it's begging for new life. That may take some imagination since this building is quite isolated from civilization, 10 minutes away from Blesle, far from any farm fields, and on a river too small and too shallow for barges. 

 

 Someone must have money to live in this stunning three-story house with surrounding gardens. It is located across the street from the factory and was probably the owner's home--and a successful owner was he! The isolation of this house led me to wonder who its current occupants are and what they do. Fortunately, cars close the gap of long-distance travel, and wifi makes communications easy. 

 Blesle

Blesle began as the seat of another Benedictine abbey for women. It developed during the Middle Ages, and an 11th century castle testifies to its importance for the nobility of this region. The town is graced a maze of alleys, old half-timbered houses, houses with stone walls, arcades, and hand-carved doors, which all witness to its glorious past. Today, the area attracts hikers and trout fishers in a beautiful natural setting of mountains, rivers, valleys, and forests.

          

            

                      

 

Holy Spirit Gate, the entrance to the northside of the village, was built in the 16th century and destroyed in 1822.

 

The Old Hospital was built in the 16th century by the Dukes of Vendôme since the village was a part of the pilgrimage to Compostelle. The coat of arms above the entrance signifies the pilgrims of Blesle (see the three shells below the cross).

 

Called "the Tower of 20 Angles", this structure was built in 1748 by Thomas d'Espinchal, the last lord of Massia. It became a prison from 1793-1847 under the Barons of Mercœur.

  

 Saint-Pierre Abbey in Blesle

A woman's monastery was built here in the 9th century. Ermengarde, countess of the Auvergne area and mother of William the Pius (875-918), was a great promoter and benefactor of the Benedictine Rule (est. 516). She chose Blesle to found a monastery and went to Rome to successfully place it under apostolic authority. Later on, the Pope established it as a Cluny Benedictine abbey under the name of Saint Pierre. The abbey was richly endowed, and it grew rapidly to include 15 abbeys under its wing by 1185.

In the 15th century, the nuns abandoned communal life in the abbey in favor of living independently in homes constructed around the church. In 1625, the monastery re-established its association with Cluny which continued until the French Revolution (1789-99) when it and most churches and religious orders were forcibly disbanded.

The Saint-Martin Bell (on top of the tower) is the only vestige of the Saint-Martin Church (14th century). This church had provided sacramental functions but was demolished during the French Revolution. A cemetery that once surrounded the church was later extended.   

The sanctuary of Saint Pierre Abbey is an astonishingly impressive sight upon walking into the church from a side door. The color and majesty of the "cul-de-four" or half-sphere dome, was painted in the 19th century. 

In the center of the dome is a medallion painting of Christ giving St. Peter the keys to the Kingdom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is nothing left of the orignal Romanesque church. Instead, the building has been reconstructed, modified, and refashioned with additional elements over the centuries. The church began to take its present shape beginning in the 12th century and includes many 16th, 17th, and 19th century additions. 

The church has many interesting architectural elements. For example, the capitals outside the building depict plants, animals, dragons, acrobats, and modillions (ornaments under the cornice of a building). These figures are actually alchemical symbols used to express the qualities of healing and spiritual transformation.  

Alchemy came to Europe in the 8th century and to France in the 12th century, courtesy of the Arabs of Spain. Alchemists were sometimes regarded as saints, magi, or sorcerers who had the power of healing. They were also the masters in charge of the "companion builders," those who erected the great cathedrals. Alchemy sought to bring together all forms of knowledge including numerology, mathematics, astronomy, and astrology. For more on medieval alchemical symbols, see my blog post: Alchemical Symbols in Medieval Architecture.

                              

   

                            

Consoles with heads. The designers of this church never missed an opportunity to decorate the various architectural forms!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos by Raymond Faure

 

 Early medieval representations of Christ focused on his divinity and triumph over death. Later medieval art focused on his humanity to show that he  suffered in the same way that human beings suffer. The implication of this change is that God (and Mary) are sympathetic to human suffering, according to Dr. Nancy Ross, art historian at Dixie State College of Utah. 

The piéta, for example, was a popular Gothic theme and used way before Michelangelo sculpted his famous piéta (1498-99). Its aim was to produce an emotional response through some pretty gruesome depictions.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"All of these Pietàs were devotional images and were intended as a focal point for contemplation and prayer" says Dr. Ross. "Even though the statues are horrific, the intent was to show that God and Mary, divine figures, were sympathetic to human suffering, and to the pain, and loss experienced by medieval viewers."

 

Through some recent restoration work, this 14th or 15th century fresco was discovered with three female angles facing one another. One of the angles plays the "guiterne", a medieval musical instrument. 

Photos by Raymond Faure

 

I'm continually amazed at all the interesting places the Auvergne region offers. After all, when people think of France, they usually think of Paris, Nice, Marseille, Lyon, which are all important, no doubt about it. However, rural south-central France offers hidden gems often overlooked in favor of the big   cities--as well as tourists' limitations on time for exploring this beautiful and historical country. 

If the coronavirus lock-downs had an upside, taking time to discover these villages was it for us! Although each medieval village is similar in theme and structure, each has its own unique history and geography. And even more astounding: people still live in these villages even though the buildings and streets are hundreds of years old.

 

Sources

https://www.allovoyages.fr/mag/villages-haute-loire/   

Dr. Nancy Ross, art historian at Dixie State College of Utah

 

Picnic Celelebration of Le Jour en Libré

 

On May 19, France had opened its cafés and restaurants after being closed nearly seven months due to the Covid pandemic. The day was called "Le Jour en Libré," (the day released), and everywhere people were jubilant and re-populating the city streets that they had largely abandoned. 

During April, the government called for a third lock-down where travel was limited to 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) from home. By May, the Covid numbers had gone down, so the country re-opened and things almost looked like they were normal again. Eluiza and I  picked the first sunny day (it has been dreadfully dreary for four months) and took to the French country roads southwest of Aiguilhe (Le Puy) to have a picnic in Saugues.  As usual, we saw some impressive sights. 

 

 

 

To make way for this road, engineers cut this rock. Note that there isn't a lot of room on either shoulder of the road. Sometimes there are no guardrails on the outer edges, so drivers must be alert and careful they don't fall off the cliff.

Cows were everywhere on this day. There are 18 breeds in France and they seemed rather content to munch on the green grass before them on this beautiful spring day. Maybe they were feeling the "Day of Release" just as we did.

Cities are sometimes built on the side of a cliff and they make for impressive views.

On the way to Saugues, this valley was too beautiful to pass up without a photo. The mountains and valleys in the Auvergne area are outstanding and the views never get old as you pass in and out, around and through them. The greenery comes in many colors and the rivers and roads wind their way through these pretty rural scenes.

Our picnic spot was on the hill overlooking Saugues. The day was sunny and warm, although cool enough for a jacket. We packed our lunch of ham sandwiches and apples and soaked in the quiet, pastoral scene below us. We have been able to drive anywhere in France beginning on May 1, but the weather had been cold, wet, and ugly. Today was one of our first days out in the countryside and we truly enjoyed it.

Saugues is a medieval town with a population of 1,815 (2015). It is one of the stopovers on the Chemin du Compostelle pilgrimage.

The "suburbs" of Saugues.

Behind us on our picnic site was a statue of the Blessed Mother and an altar set-up for an outdoor Mass. We felt twice-blessed. The statue was erected in 1945 in thankgiving for the end of World War II. The road leading to the statue is a bumpy one-way dirt road on a high hill. You need to have faith that you will not meet other cars and that your tires will hold you securely to the ground.

 

Saugues is famous for its Beast of the Gévaudan, and the town has used it as a theme as well as a tourist highlight complete with a museum and paw prints on the sidewalk directing visitors to it. The beast was an unidentified animal or group of animals (perhaps a wolf), that lived in the mountains near Saugues between 1764-1767. Nearly 200 people were killed and devoured by it.  

 

 On September 21, 1765, François Antoine killed a large grey wolf measuring 31 inches high and 5 ft 7 inches long and weighing 130 lb, which was much bigger than a typical wolf. However, on December 2, two boys were attacked and a dozen more deaths occurred. On June 19, 1767, Jean Chastel, a farmer, shot the beast during a hunt organized by a local nobleman, the Marquis d'Apchier. The body was brought to his castle and stuffed by Dr. Boulanger, a surgeon of Saugues. His post-mortem report known as the "Marin Report" (named after his transcriber) noted that the animal's stomach contained the remains of its last victim.

Woodworking is a craft industry in Saugues, and there are several items in the town that feature wood-carved figures. Of course, someone had to make one of the infamous Beast of Gévaudan. It is located off the road on the hill overlooking the town.

We encountered two "beasts" roaming around the center of town. They were friendly, though. The one on the left was lounging at the sidewalk café. The one on the right was seen going into the town's church. It's owner, an old woman who had taken a sit-down break just outside the church, asked it if it had stopped to pray. 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Espresso at a sidewalk café is commonplace in France. However, in May 2021, after a year of the coronavirus pandemic and three lock-downs, it was a big deal. And, Eluiza and I savored every drop!

 

 

For more on Saugues, see a blog on our previous visit there.

Deconfinement -- France Comes out of the Lock-down

The excitement had been building for weeks. Ever since the lock-down on October 20, 2020, a big part of life in France has been unavailable: restaurants, bars, cafés. Darkened windows. Chairs upside down on top of tables. Empty streets. Unemployed thousands. This has been the scene thanks to coronavirus’ third trip around France (and Europe). The numbers of cases, hospitalizations, and deaths rose to such highs that the government did the only thing it could do: keep people from congregating and spreading the disease. 

Sports stadiums, “unessential” stores, museums, theatres had to close as well. Churches reconfigured their pews to reduce the numbers of people from sitting too closely to each other. From time to time over the past year schools closed. Masks were required inside buildings and outside on many city streets. Gel dispensers were set up as an added welcome to the entrance of stores. Sometimes tickets were distributed to limit the number of shoppers allowed in the store at the same time. Plastic shields separating workers from customers or clients were installed everywhere. Fines were imposed on those violating the rules. Borders were closed, too. Police became vigilant in getting people to wear masks or in preventing them from traveling too far from home during certain periods.

This year, just as things began to look better, a variant appeared in England around January and began spreading into France and across Europe. In March, curfews were imposed on the hardest hit areas and later to the entire country. Travel from home was limited to 10 kilometers (6.2 miles). Then, people couldn’t get vaccinated due to limited supplies of vaccine. Then a panic about AstraZeneca's after-effects made several European governments, including France, shy away from distributing this vaccine. 

Things began to change once the vaccines finally arrived in mid-April. The numbers of cases and hospitalizations started to decline as people were vaccinated: caregivers, the oldest, and those in senior citizen homes went first. By mid-May people aged 50+ years were going in droves to “vaccine-o-dromes” (stadiums and gymnasiums) to get their shots. Schools opened. Curfews and travel restrictions loosened. But the big day, the one that would open the cities to a nearly normal life again was Wednesday, May 19, 2021, and everyone was looking forward to it. 

 

Restaurants, bars, and cafés had been preparing for the day for weeks. They scrubbed their floors, dusted their walls and lamps, re-cleaned their kitchen areas, and set-up their tables at appropriate socially-distanced spaces—one meter apart. Only outside dining is available right now. In June, indoor dining would open to 50 percent capacity. Meanwhile, fishers and meat producers are increasing their supplies. Businesses were seeking employees.

Tourism began opening up again. Buses and campers are spotted on the road and in parking lots. Tourists are asking locals for directions and walking around with maps. Pilgrims are back again, too, with their backpacks and walking sticks. People are planning their summer vacations. 

 

 Le Petit Train, which offers 45-minute, on-the-road tours of Le Puy, re-started its tourist season.

 

 

 

 

San Michel, considered a museum, was closed during the lock-downs. It re-opened its doors on this special day.

 

The May 13 Ascension Thursday holiday saw large numbers of people boarding trains for the weekend. Debates about people wearing masks on the beaches during the summer began. Relief, joy, and rekindled hope in the warming spring months have had a new meaning this year for tourists and tour agencies alike.  

 
In the Centre Ville of Le Puy-en-Velay, the excitement of this big day going back to normal was in the air. Even cool temperatures and the threat of rain could not keep people away. For the past year the streets have been practically abandoned. Now it’s obvious the importance that stores, restaurants, bars, and cafés play to the city’s vitality and life on the street. 

I was overcome with the joy of the day as well. As I walked down the streets, I waved to shopkeepers and gave a couple of them a thumbs-up and was reciprocated with big smiles. I stopped at Martine’s lace shop where we take our pilgrims and guests to literally applaud her re-opening. Relief crossed her face knowing that the worst was over. This was such a dramatic change from just before the first lock-down 14 months ago when her face was creased with dread.

From May 19 until mid-June, restaurants can only serve on their terraces, so the tables and chairs have re-appeared as have the menu boards enticing diners for their next meal. Some cafés added tables to their storefronts or they have made themselves more attractive with cushy pillows, plants, or other things that command people's attention.

 

The tables in Place du Plot were nearly filled with people ordering ice cream dishes, galettes, salads, beer, and the usual coffee drinks. Dogs barked at other dogs wanting to play. Children buzzed around their parents. People interacted with each other with vigor as though everyone had been on vacation for a year and just returned.

 

I spoke French to strangers on this day more than I have ever done. Part of the reason was that my language skills have improved enough that I can more comfortably interact with others. However, the real reason was that I was just glad to see other people—and they were willing to take time to talk with me. Oh, we are such a social species!

To celebrate the day, I ordered a cup of espresso at one of my favorite outdoor cafés. It had appeared last year that they were going out of business and selling their store. However, the familiar faces were working behind the counter again, and I was relieved that they were still around. As I sat at one of the small tables appropriately distanced from the others, I did what I usually do: sip my coffee, indulge in some people watching, and check the Internet. After 45 minutes of savoring the open air, I decided to move on to my other favorite café for their famous sable cookies (similar to pecan sandies). When the waitress came back with my bill, I was so happy to be there that I gave her a tip. She seemed a bit taken aback because tips are included in the bill. “I’m just happy to see you,” I told her. She smiled and appreciated my small gesture. 

 

On to my favorite patisserie for my sable where I had a nice conversation with a young woman server and a roughly-dressed older man whose dog was lying on the floor. Several tables had been placed outside the café while those left inside were stacked with chairs to prevent anyone from using them—in compliance with the national mandate that only terrace service was allowed. 
 

As the young woman served me my sable, the man asked me about myself. I told them I was from the USA and that I’d been in France for four years and was still learning French. I quipped that TV news anchor Anne-Sophie La Pix was helping me understand it better because she speaks correct French without the colloquialisms that are in films. The man complimented me on my French, and we parted ways full of happiness and joy. 

Around the Centre Ville the outdoor cafés crowded with people talking to their friends in animated ways. It was like old times again! Most of the shops were open, and some people stood looking at displays in the store windows while others went inside. Masks are still required inside stores and people throughout the pandemic have been cooperative in wearing them. Most people were not wearing a mask outside, however. It was as though they were taking time to breathe the local air after being shut off from it by the thin paper or cloth coverings over their noses and mouths.

However, as excited as everyone seemed to be on this re-opening day, there were still many restaurant owners who remained hesitant about re-starting their operations because of several obstacles to normal management, according to L’Éveil, the local newspaper. Restaurants must restrict each table to six people and indoor dining areas are off-limits until June 9, the third of four stages of re-opening the country. Because of the spacing between tables—one meter apart—they are not able to fit as many people onto their terraces and they have been denied more space on the public sidewalks.

Having enough staff to run the restaurant is also a problem. Some former servers have been benefiting from unemployment benefits and are slow in getting back to work. Then, having enough clients to pay for staff puts owners in a monetarily tight squeeze. Some restaurant owners are limiting the menu to one item to reduce their costs.

The curfew that was imposed on all of France in early April has been extended from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. until June 9 when it will be 11 p.m. Meanwhile, taking reservations has been a nightmare for restauranteurs because of cool temperatures and intermittent rain and wind. One owner said that he had received calls off-the-hook on Monday in anticipation of Wednesday’s re-opening. However, the unpredictable weather would make outdoor dining difficult. Some owners are outright resisting taking reservations. On June 30 the curfew will end.

Another big aspect of "deconfinement" has been the re-opening of cinemas, theaters, museums, concerts, and sporting events. The Minister of Culture, Roselyne Bachelot, promised that “all cultural sectors” would be helped during the weeks of gradual reopening of cultural places. The government is working with these establishments on protocols, seating capacity, safe distancing, curfews, and compensation funds for ticket offices. Sale of confectionery, popcorn and catering services will remain prohibited initially. Then, to overcome the “wall of 150 French films and 250 foreign films” awaiting release, the minister hopes that distributors will manage to agree on “a concerted schedule”.

As for museums, for now a threshold of 8 square meters per visitor will be imposed, however, it may be relaxed to 4 square meters per visitor on June 9. 

The French love musical concerts and they have missed them over the past year. However, these potential super-spreader events will remain closed at this time until some “test concerts” take place in Paris and Marseille. The government will then work to define protocols for future re-openings in other cities.

The TV news showed people lining up with great joy to get into cinemas. Bars showed young people toasting each other with their beers at the re-opening. Everyone believes that the pandemic will soon be over and that life will go back to normal. However, the government remains vigilant in watching the stats on the number of coronavirus cases, hospitalizations, and deaths to determine when normal has arrived.

 

 

Tourism, which accounts for 8% of France's GDP, had been decimated—down 41 percent or 61 billion euros (nearly $74.6 billion) from 2019, said Secretary of State for Tourism Jean-Baptiste Lemoyne in a TV interview. During pre-pandemic days, over 90 million foreign tourists visited France. The economic impact of the tourism sector also affected 2 million people with direct and indirect jobs in the industry, including the hospitality and catering businesses. The tourism that did take place in France was largely by the French people who traveled in France rather than traveling abroad (Anadolu Agency, January 8, 2021), but that couldn't make up for the regular tourism. Europe lost $1.3 trillion in tourism over the past year.

 

Sources:

L’Éveil, Le grand nettoyage d’avant ouverture, May 19, 2021 https://www.aa.com.tr/en/europe/pandemic-leaves-tourism-in-france-down-by-40-/2103560

https://www.leveil.fr/paris-75000/loisirs/cinemas-theatres-musees-concerts-les-modalites-de-reouverture-et-les-aides_13948698

  https://www.lamontagne.fr/paris-75000/actualites/couvre-feu-deplacements-bars-restaurants-decouvrez-le-calendrier-du-deconfinement_13946962/