Travels with Olga: Northern Ireland -- Belfast

We didn't spend much time in Belfast, N. Ireland, except to see the docks of the Titanic, its museum, and a wee bit of the downtown. Our tour went there because Belfast was the most direct route from Glasgow to Dublin across the Irish Sea.

We did have time to stop for a pint of "the black stuff", Guiness that is. Our guide suggested that we go to The Crown, a famous pub on the main street. This pub was a great choice because it was dark and had lots of varnished and sculpted wood, mosaic tiled floors, and stained glass. Cozy, little compartments (called snugs) were available for small groups with a bell for service and a formerly much-used metal bar tacked to the wall to strike matches.The snugs were for more reserved customers during the more repressed Victorian era.

The Crown was originally opened as a Victorian gin palace in 1826. In the 1880s, a Catholic husband and a Protestant wife bought it and refurbished it. The husband saw it as a way to both placate his wife who wanted to own it and to have his customers step on a mosaic crown at the front door.

In 1978 the National Trust, a UK heritage conservation group, purchased the property to restore it to its original Victorian state. A recognizable landmark, The Crown has been featured in several film and TV productions.

The Crown offers its chief brew, Guiness, which has a different taste from other cities. It is all about the water. Guiness is produced here but doesn't travel well as a beer, thus the difference in taste. A pint costs 5.5 pounds and a half pint is 2.8 pounds.

The pub's Victorian ambience is attractive and pleasing to its patrons as a relaxing place to be, as members of our group illustrate.

This pub also offered us a little taste of Northern Ireland's sordid history during "The Troubles" when Catholics and Protestants were at war with each other. A plaque on the wall says: "This mirror was installed in c. 1898. It was damaged in a bomb explosion in 1993, subsequently restored, and reinstated in 1999."

Even a short visit to Belfast allowed us to see a little of its difficult past.

"The Troubles" began in the late 1960s and ended with the Good Friday Agreement in 1998. During that time some 3600 people were killed and 30,000 were injured.

A Little History

Belfast is really an ancient city that has been occupied since the Bronze Age (3300-1200 BCE). It remained a small settlement in the Middle Ages and the Normans may have built a castle there in the late 12th century. Belfast was established as a town in 1613 and predominantly Catholic. A few English settled there, but it was the Scottish Presbyterians who grew the town into a major port--and became the majority population. Together with the French Huguenot refugees Belfast became a linen-producing city that stretched to the Americas. The industrial revolution then drew landless Irish peasants to Belfast to work in the factories, especially the shipyards. It was at this time that the Protestants began to take control over the city, and tensions arose. However, although it appears that religion separated people, it was really their origins.

The Troubles

The Troubles date back to centuries warfare between Ireland (mostly Catholic) and England (mostly Protestant). In 1921, the Republic of Ireland broke free as an independent state, however, Northern Ireland remained part of the United Kingdom of England. Catholics in Belfast and Derry complained of police discrimination and unfair government treatment in housing, jobs, gerrymandering of political districts. Most of the farms and businesses were owned by the Protestants and Catholics were unable to penetrate them. The country held a siege mentality and suspicion and mistrust reigned. Then, in the 1960s, young Catholic nationalists attempted to right this situation by modeling their movement on the U.S. Civil Rights movement.

On October 5, 1968, a protest march against discrimination took place in Derry and police put it down with violence. On January 1, 1969, nationalist activists organized a march (similar to Martin Luther King, Jr.'s march on Selma) from Belfast to Derry. Police escorted the marchers until they reached Burntollet Bridge outside of Derry. Then police put on their riot gear in anticipation of a problem. A loyalst mob of Protestants started throwing rocks and then wielded iron bars and clubs on the protesters.

On August 13, 1969, another riot broke out in Derry during a loyalst parade to commemorate Protestant military victories of the 17th century. The parade passed through a Catholic section known as the Bogside. This provoked what is now called "The Battle of Bogside", which lasted three days. The British government sent in troops to quell the disorder.

On January 30, 1972, Catholic nationalists organized a protest march against British internment policies. Troops were called in to disperse the crowds, first with rubber bullets and then with live ammunition. Thirteen protesters were killed and 17 were wounded. This incident was called "Bloody Sunday".

For the next 30 years, skirmishes provoked by one side or the other persisted until the Good Friday Agreement of 1998. The agreement created a framework for political power-sharing and an end to the violence.

Today, Belfast is a thriving city. Peace and unity have allowed the economy to explode. The BBC opened new studios here and the film industry and other businesses have been started. Today, Belfast is a cultural mecca with art galleries, theatre, and sports contests.

Belfast was and still is a shipbuilding city. Harland & Wolff, established in 1861, dominates the industry, as can be seen with its numerous yellow cranes--the largest in the world. The company built the majority of ships for the White Star Line including the Titanic, Olympic, and Britannic.

Titanic was built here in Belfast before it launched its ill-fated maiden voyage across the Atlantic Ocean. This museum, reputedly one of the best, is located near the shipyards with a dramatic form reminiscent of the great ship's size and dominance. It is just another reason to return to Belfast!

A quick run-through the downtown provided some interesting sights of this thriving and busy town.

The Art House

St. Patrick's Catholic Church

The Europa Hotel provides accommodations for the world's diplomats. American presidents stayed here, too. During The Troubles, it had the reputation of being the most bombed hotel in the world.