Monday, November 14, 2022

Scotland -- Stirling Castle

 

 

We were treated to a "Burns Supper", a celebration of the life and poetry of the poet Robert Burns (1759-96), the author of many Scottish poems. (These suppers are usually celebrated on the poet's birthday, January 25, but they can be celebrated at any time of the year, too.) The supper was modified for our group but below is a general outline of the way the supper is conducted.


Robert Burns (1759-96) was and still is a celebrated Scottish poet and lyricist. He is one of the first to write in the Scottish language, however, he wrote his political commentaries in English. Burns is regarded as a pioneer of the Romantic movement. Recognition of his life and work became a national cult during the 19th and 20th centuries and he remains a cultural icon in Scotland and among Scots throughout the world. In 2009 he was chosen as the greatest Scot by the Scottish public in a vote run by the Scottish television channel STV.  

The first Burns Supper was held in memoriam at Burns Cottage in Ayrshire by Burns's friends, on July 21, 1801, the fifth anniversary of his death. It has been celebrated ever since. Burns suppers may be formal or informal. Both typically include haggis (a traditional Scottish dish celebrated by Burns in Address to a Haggis), Scotch whisky, and the recitation of Burns's poetry.


A bagpiper generally greets the guests and serves as the host for the evening. We met ours at the statue of another great Scot, Robert the Bruce. Our host gave us a little history about Robert the Bruce before he led us to the supper--in the dark.


Robert I
(1274-1329), popularly known as Robert the Bruce, was King of Scots from 1306-1329. He was one of the most renowned warriors of his generation who eventually led Scotland during the First War of Scottish Independence against England. He fought successfully during his reign to regain Scotland's place as an independent kingdom. Today, he is revered in Scotland as a national hero. 



 

Once we were seated at our tables, our host said a few words of welcome and the reason for our gathering.


 

The supper starts with the soup course. Normally a Scottish soup, such as Scotch broth, potato soup, cullen skink, or cock-a-leekie, is served.

 

 

 

 

The next course was a ceremonial "bringing in of the haggis", similar to the photos below. A poem by Robert Burns about the haggis is read (see below).



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Haggis is a savory pudding containing sheep's pluck (heart, liver, and lungs), minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and cooked while traditionally encased in the animal's stomach.

Although the name "hagws" or "hagese" was first recorded in England c. 1430, the dish is considered traditionally of Scottish origin. It is even the national dish, as a result of Scots poet Robert Burns' poem "Address to a Haggis" of 1786.  

Nice seeing your honest, chubby face,

Great chieftain of the sausage race!
Above them all you take your place,
Belly, tripe, or links:
Well are you worthy of a grace
As long as my arm.

The groaning platter there you fill,
Your buttocks like a distant hill,
Your pin would help to mend a mill
In time of need,
While through your pores the dews distill
Like amber bead.  

His knife see rustic Labour sharpen,
And cut you up with practiced skill,

Trenching your gushing entrails bright,
Like any ditch;

And then, Oh what a glorious sight,
Warm-steaming, rich! 

When, spoon for spoon, they stretch and strive:
Devil take the hindmost, on they drive,
'Til all their well-swollen bellies soon
Are tight as drums;
Then old Master, most likely to burst,
'Thanks Be' hums.  

Is there one, that over his French ragout,
Or olio that would give pause to a sow,
Or fricassee that would make her spew
With perfect loathing,
Looks down with sneering, scornful view
On such a dinner? 

Poor devil! See him over his trash,
As feeble as a withered rush,
His spindly leg a good whip-lash,
His fist a nit:
Through bloody flood or field to dash,
Oh how unfit!  

But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,
The trembling earth resounds his tread,
Clap in his sturdy fist a blade,
He'll make it whistle;
And legs and arms, and heads will cut,
Like tops of thistle. 

You Pow'rs, that make mankind your care,
And dish them out their bill of fare,
Old Scotland wants no watery ware
That slops in bowls:
But, if You wish her grateful prayer,
Give her a Haggis!

 At the line His knife see rustic Labour dicht, the speaker normally draws and sharpens a knife. At the line An' cut you up wi' ready slicht, he plunges it into the haggis and cuts it open from end to end. Then the host presents the haggis, as our host did below.

                                         


At the end of the poem, a whisky toast is proposed to the haggis, and the company sits down to the meal. The haggis is traditionally served with mashed potatoes (tatties) and mashed swede turnip (neeps). We each received a small sample of the haggis on our plates. (Mine did not suit me as there was too much of a liver taste.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the meal is finished and its time for coffee, various speeches and toasts are given. Usually some Robert Burns poetry is recited or some aspect of his life is remembered. Our host played some songs on the bagpipes and explained how the instrument worked. 

                                                     

At the end, the host calls on one of the guests to give the vote of thanks, and finally everyone is asked to stand, join hands, and sing "Auld Lang Syne", a poem written by Robert Burns. 

We did not see either the inside or the outside of Stirling Castle because it was night time and we were in a rural area without much light. We had our meal in a restaurant down the hill from the castle. However, the Burns Supper was a delightful experience of Scottish culture and the food (except for the haggis) and entertainment were superb. It's part of what made Scotland fun and memorable.

For more information about Stirling Castle and its history, click here.

 

Resources

Stirling Castle -- https://www.englishmonarchs.co.uk/stirling_castle.html

Robert the Bruce -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_the_Bruce

Haggis -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haggis

Burns Supper -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burns_supper#%22Address_to_a_Haggis%22

 

 



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